thanks,

i think im going to try and find a cheap straight 2nd hand stub axle to see if that makes a difference, failing that im gona try the shims like basil did on his car, found them on regal motorsport for 20quid a pair delivered so cant complain if that will sort it. finding out how to set/adjust the shim will be the biggest problem as the actual removing the stub axel ect looks pretty straight forward job

right, ordered some camber/toe shims today from regal £20 a pair delivered. if this works i will be very happy:thumbup:

Just seen this thread; your biggest problem is the rear thrust angle, which means that the back end of the car is being dragged down the road. You can probably sort that, and the toe angles, with stub shimming, but it would be better to check the beam isn't bent first.

Just seen this thread; your biggest problem is the rear thrust angle, which means that the back end of the car is being dragged down the road. You can probably sort that, and the toe angles, with stub shimming, but it would be better to check the beam isn't bent first.

as far as im aware its not bent but obviously not 100% sure, when i took it in for the 4 wheel geometry check the tech had a good look but there was no visible damage or wear anywhere! he did say though that he has come across a couple of seat's with similar problem's, one was a new car!

will see how i get on with the shims when i get the time to fit them.

just found this site http://www.spcalignment.com/ezshim/application/

if anyone is going to use the EZ SHIMS 75200 you just type your current camber & toe readings in and then type in what you want to set your settings to and it will give you the number to adjust the shim to:thumbup:

as far as im aware its not bent but obviously not 100% sure, when i took it in for the 4 wheel geometry check the tech had a good look but there was no visible damage or wear anywhere! he did say though that he has come across a couple of seat's with similar problem's, one was a new car!

will see how i get on with the shims when i get the time to fit them.

Next play should be to check that the trail arms are parallel to each other, and at right angles to the torsion beam itself then. Measure the gap between the arms at both ends (should be the same within the limits of the measuring kit), and check that they are at 90 degrees to the torsion beam (job for a really big set square, a professional draftsman's kit, not a school geometry set one).If it fails one or both of these tests, I'd argue that it's an undiagnosed manufacturing error.

thanks, i will give this a go when stripping down to fit the shims