Hi,

Does anyone know the torque settings for the forman 1.3 favorit pickup, carb engine? and what order they tighten up in please?

Thanks guys. :-)

The torque settings for which bolts/nuts?

The torque settings for which bolts/nuts?

Fot the bolts thanks

:-)

There are lots of bolts on this car you know! Buy a haynes perhaps?!

There are lots of bolts on this car you know! Buy a haynes perhaps?!

LOL I missed out the word HEAD! ;-)

RIGHT! That's more like it.

The tightening order is a spiral from the front of the engine, all the big bolts first, then the little studs on the front:

10 6 2 3 7 - head bolts

9 5 1 4 8 - head bolts

13 11 12 14 - studs with M8 nuts

torques:

bolts:

stage 1: 20Nm

stage 2: angle tighten by 90 degrees

stage 3: angle tighten by 90 degrees

nuts: 20-23Nm

it doesn't specify what stage you do the nuts up, I've always done them up at stage 1 and then re-tightened them at stage 3 (they always go loose as the head clamps down)

RIGHT! That's more like it.

The tightening order is a spiral from the front of the engine, all the big bolts first, then the little studs on the front:

10 6 2 3 7 - head bolts

9 5 1 4 8 - head bolts

13 11 12 14 - studs with M8 nuts

torques:

bolts:

stage 1: 20Nm

stage 2: angle tighten by 90 degrees

stage 3: angle tighten by 90 degrees

nuts: 20-23Nm

it doesn't specify what stage you do the nuts up, I've always done them up at stage 1 and then re-tightened them at stage 3 (they always go loose as the head clamps down)

i´ve read on a page that the torque setting are a little weak and that is a good advice to usea sylicone sealant on the HG, heres the link

Tuning Skoda Estelles and other wastes of time...

i also found a webpage tha does tuning for the 135 136 engines, consider changing the carb for a weber or a hoaley

RIGHT! That's more like it.

The tightening order is a spiral from the front of the engine, all the big bolts first, then the little studs on the front:

10 6 2 3 7 - head bolts

9 5 1 4 8 - head bolts

13 11 12 14 - studs with M8 nuts

torques:

bolts:

stage 1: 20Nm

stage 2: angle tighten by 90 degrees

stage 3: angle tighten by 90 degrees

nuts: 20-23Nm

it doesn't specify what stage you do the nuts up, I've always done them up at stage 1 and then re-tightened them at stage 3 (they always go loose as the head clamps down)

Thanks buddy. :-)

i´ve read on a page that the torque setting are a little weak and that is a good advice to usea sylicone sealant on the HG, heres the link

Tuning Skoda Estelles and other wastes of time...

i also found a webpage tha does tuning for the 135 136 engines, consider changing the carb for a weber or a hoaley

Thanks for the info. :-)

Well, I've never had a HG fail after using those torques, with a well-prepped and clean head, and using a decent (i.e. OEM) head gasket. And this isn't just on standard 136 engines, also on those with raised compression (current rally car is 11.5:1).

Not sure about Silicon sealer (it wouldn't help with the HG other than the coolant passages to oil or outside), but aren't the engines referred to on that page using iron 5-port heads?

Well, I've never had a HG fail after using those torques, with a well-prepped and clean head, and using a decent (i.e. OEM) head gasket. And this isn't just on standard 136 engines, also on those with raised compression (current rally car is 11.5:1).

Not sure about Silicon sealer (it wouldn't help with the HG other than the coolant passages to oil or outside), but aren't the engines referred to on that page using iron 5-port heads?

TBH i only did light reading on this and other pages, so i might have them confused, but if my reading vs you experience, hands down experience wins, but is good to find out and make sure, dont you agree?

anyway, good luck, i'll be doing the same thing on a couple of moth, also thinking about skiming to raise compression, but i dont know what would that gain exactly (more power, better FE, etc..) so i'll be doing my research

Engine is all back togeather and running, just need to know the tappet settings if anyone knows?

Thanks

Regan :-)

.25mm, isn't it?

As for compression increases, depends what else you do. Straight increases lead to an increase in power, but of course VE can change over the rev range and mess with your fuelling; it's possible to end up rich or lean.

.25mm, isn't it?

As for compression increases, depends what else you do. Straight increases lead to an increase in power, but of course VE can change over the rev range and mess with your fuelling; it's possible to end up rich or lean.

Many thanks for the info pal.

:-)

Engine is all back togeather and running, just need to know the tappet settings if anyone knows?

Thanks

Regan :-)

is 0.20mm or 8thou, for all valve, measure stone cold, if you have aloy pushrod on the intake then those you will ne to set at 0.25mm or 10thou (Autodata CD3, Vivid Workshop Manual, and my 1,000 setting)

is 0.20mm or 8thou, for all valve, measure stone cold, if you have aloy pushrod on the intake then those you will ne to set at 0.25mm or 10thou (Autodata CD3, Vivid Workshop Manual, and my 1,000 setting)

Many thanks

:-)