Tried a search before anyone says anything! :P

Given a thorough flush through, top-up and bleeding, how much brake fluid should I be buying for my car?

System holds about 2l, but buy 3l to make sure you don't run out is my advice

Wow - This is going to be very expensive given I wanted to use Motul RBF600 fluid @ £11 per 500ml

I think Eurocarparts sell Super Blue fluid quite a bit cheaper than that, i think it's along the same lines at Motul?

System holds about 2l, but buy 3l to make sure you don't run out is my advice

What?!

The Fabia, like most small cars, holds about 600ml. A 1l bottle is enough for a flush and bleed.

Any DoT4 or 5.1 fluid will be fine, its not a race car...

What?!

its not a race car...

Do you know anything about my car? I want the best brake fluid to make the most of the brembos fitted. It only took about 1 lap of the Ring before I had managed to get some pronounced fade in my brakes, using normal dot 5.1

Do you know anything about my car? I want the best brake fluid to make the most of the brembos fitted. It only took about 1 lap of the Ring before I had managed to get some pronounced fade in my brakes, using normal dot 5.1

its not fluid thats at fault , more likely the pad material

plus you were probably braking too much :P

Do you know anything about my car? I want the best brake fluid to make the most of the brembos fitted. It only took about 1 lap of the Ring before I had managed to get some pronounced fade in my brakes, using normal dot 5.1

I know a lot about cars in general, and brakes in particular. I'm an engineer and spent a goodly number of years working for a well-known braking systems company based in the West Midlands.

DoT 5.1 has a boiling point around 275degC. If you're reaching those sorts of fluid temperatures then you have problems elsewhere in your braking system. A 'racing fluid' (these are usually DoT 4 fluids with additives to raise the boiling point) will give you around an extra 30degC, which is not really going to make a vast difference. When b/fluid boils you don't get 'fade', you basically lose your brakes!

I think the system and lines hold a little more than 600 ml and you should bleed a good 100-150ml of clean fluid past each bleed nipple. Speak to Guy at Opie Oils about RBF600, I always buy mine from him.

I think the system and lines hold a little more than 600 ml and you should bleed a good 100-150ml of clean fluid past each bleed nipple. Speak to Guy at Opie Oils about RBF600, I always buy mine from him.

I just checked in my brake systems data book. Fabia 1 non-ABS holds 400ml, ABS models hold 500ml.

You are correct that you need to bleed through a good 150ml per line - but a 1 litre bottle should be sufficient, with a bit over for topping up. Trade price for DoT 5.1 is about £5+VAT a litre.

If there is a suspicion that DoT 5.1 is boiling (i.e. reaching 275degC+) after only 1 lap of Ring then there is a serious problem elsewhere in the system.

I used to do brake test work using the MIRA high speed circuit, and even using the old DoT3 and 4 fluids were never really had fluid boiling. Even with pads billowing smoke the temp measured in the fluid in the calipers could seldom be got over 200degC. Boiling tends to be a problem with old fluid that has absorbed water, its the water that boils forming tiny vapour bubbles in the fluid and the pedal will go to the floor.

We used thermocouples to measure brake component temperatures, but for amateur use you can buy little stick-on thermostrips that change colour if a given temperature is surpassed. Try some 225degC strips and see if you get that hot.

Yep, just buy a litre of 5.1 from Opie. Where the hell did Tom get his figures from?!?

Steve

its not fluid thats at fault , more likely the pad material

plus you were probably braking too much :P

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

You obviously have not seen Jason drive.

There is not much more than 1ltr. in yer pipes but you will need 2 litres to flush the old stuff out and be sure it is all new fluid. A specialist will can do it very quickly with the pressure bleed system and cost me £76 including decent race fluid.

Another tip when changing your own car's fluid at home, is to have a nice clean turkey baster and remove most of the old fluid from the car's fluid container then refill with fresh fluid, before using a Gunson's pressure bleeder to flush the old fluid out and the new fluid in - best to do this in the suggested by Skoda order. One litre is more than enough - but safely more than enough just incase something goes wrong and you run out of fluid before completing this task. Its best to clean out the turkey baster afterwards as it avoids problems at Christmas - joke!(I think). I just use the Gunson's pressure bleeder "dry" as they can be difficult to seal completely (and less to clean out afterwards) - and keep an eye on the fluid level. Also I use a Hozelok sprayer bought for this job instead of a spare tyre - to provide the pressure.

just a couple of questions on the last post. I have to do mine soon, and also had the idea of removing most of the old fluid in the reservoir ,and replacing with new fluid at the start. My first query is that the clutch master cylinder uses the same fluid reservoir by a tapping about 30mm from the top. When you lower the fluid level, air will be able to get into the clutch master cylinder pipe ,which will then need the clutch system being bled as well?.

I also intend to use a 'Gunson' bleeding system The thing is if you are using it 'dry' everytime you remove the master cylinder cap to refill with new fluid ,the system is then not under pressure.( I realise all the nipples would be shut at this time) ,but I understood the idea of using a 'Gunson' device is that the system remains pressurised throughout the bleeding of all the nipples?

just a couple of questions on the last post. I have to do mine soon, and also had the idea of removing most of the old fluid in the reservoir ,and replacing with new fluid at the start. My first query is that the clutch master cylinder uses the same fluid reservoir by a tapping about 30mm from the top. When you lower the fluid level, air will be able to get into the clutch master cylinder pipe ,which will then need the clutch system being bled as well?.

I also intend to use a 'Gunson' bleeding system The thing is if you are using it 'dry' everytime you remove the master cylinder cap to refill with new fluid ,the system is then not under pressure.( I realise all the nipples would be shut at this time) ,but I understood the idea of using a 'Gunson' device is that the system remains pressurised throughout the bleeding of all the nipples?

No you will not get any air "staying" in the clutch fluid circuit - it will leave the circuit full to the "tap off" then refilling the reservoir will allow the fluid to rise above this point. I can't see there being a problem with the pressure being removed every time you refill the reservoir as, as you have said, the draw off points will be closed as they will be in service. It might save time by filling the Gunson's container up with fluid as is its intended method of use, but I only ever get one or two callipers bled at a time before needing to pump up the external pressure vessel due to air leaks, I rather that than having messy fluid leaks.

Is it not best to run the new fluid to the clutch as well and bleed it? I thought it was usual to do both at the same time.

From the service manual is:

Clutch hydraulics 0.1L

Wheels 0.2L each

so a total of 0.9L, but they are saying you extract first the fluid from the reservoir, so probably about 1L of break fluid. Also the order is cluch, rear right, rear left, front left, front right for right hand drive.

They are also describing the classic method: pumping the cluch or break.

Also the order is cluch, rear right, rear left, front left, front right for right hand drive.

They are also describing the classic method: pumping the cluch or break.

I thought the std order was furthest from the master cylinder 1st (n/s/r) ending up at the closest last (o/s/f)?

Sorry, my mistake, it's rear left, rear right, front left, front right, got them mixed.

Is it not best to run the new fluid to the clutch as well and bleed it? I thought it was usual to do both at the same time.

Yes to a lesser extent as its not a safety related circuit (moisture in fluid causing loss of braking when fluid has boiled the moisture). But, and for me the BIG but seems to be that the bleed valve for the clutch cylinder is said to be plastic - and its not available as a spare part without buying the complete cylinder, so, I'm just a bit scared that it might snap off when you either open or close it. Not many folk seem to have mentioned flushing the clutch circuit, I'd imagine that when you drop the moisture level in the main fluid circuit, that there will be a slow "levelling out" of the moisture content across the entire connected fluid system, not completely but enough to drop off the accumulated moisture in the small clutch circuit "a bit" if the brake fluid is replaced every two (or maybe three!) years. These are my justifications for not changing the clutch fluid in 9 years (Passat B5) and 7 years (Polo 9N). Prior to that 10+ years of crappy cable clutches.