Better weather today so I thought I'd take the wheels off. Better done in daylight in the dry for a first time. The nuts were pretty tight and I needed the 530mm extended leverage. I doubt my original lever would have worked (it's also fixed at 19mm rather than the 17mm hex of the O2 nuts). There's not much hub extending into the wheel, so need to hold the wheel in position to get the first bolt in. I put some Jenolite followed by Waxoil on the rusty bits I could see. They were pretty small but I prefer to have none if possible.

The front sill jacking point is quite narrow so I used a scissor jack under the wishbone. I took some pics around the nearside front and rear, of the calipers, disks and suspension while they were exposed.

Edited 8 October, 200916 yr by icarusi@hotmail

OMG that looks clean, dont ever remember mine lookin like that.

looks BRAND new mate, how old is she and what model?

Some more pics here. The rear suspension leading edge looks comparitively flimsy. Not that it will break, but if bumped hard enough laterally, I could see it adding more rear toe-in, so worth checking if you do broadside a kerb substantially. OTOH the cast alloy front subframe looks very substantial. Presumably the front suspension and drivetrain can be dropped complete, if you have the gear and knowledge.

OMG that looks clean, dont ever remember mine lookin like that.

looks BRAND new mate, how old is she and what model?

3.5 weeks (in my possession from new) O2 facelift 1.4 TSI S.

cheers mate looks nice

cheers mate looks nice

Haven't seen this pattern of caliper before. Looks like the disk can be replaced without removing the whole caliper assembly. From a brief search I assume it's an ATE with the 'set screw' style guide bolts. Just need to know what size hex bit to use. The rears look like the conventional 2-spanner guide bolts I've done before. I would expect the rears to last much longer though.

http://briskoda.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=30979&d=1254958992

Haven't seen this pattern of caliper before. Looks like the disk can be replaced without removing the whole caliper assembly. From a brief search I assume it's an ATE with the 'set screw' style guide bolts. Just need to know what size hex bit to use. The rears look like the conventional 2-spanner guide bolts I've done before. I would expect the rears to last much longer though.

http://briskoda.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=30979&d=1254958992

They appear to be the FS III callipers, which are on the Mk2 Octavia PD105.

And yes, the discs can be removed without having to take the carrier off.

The front sill jacking point is quite narrow so I used a scissor jack under the wishbone.quote

Never jack using the wishbone you will bend it, always use the jacking points

Never jack using the wishbone you will bend it, always use the jacking points

I agree but I'm not sure if the average tyre places do.

I agree but I'm not sure if the average tyre places do.

They seem to use *a* sill jacking point. Whether it's the maker's preferred point is open to question, and if they damage the sill underseal who'll know.

The wishbones are quite substantial and have convenient strengthening corrugations which fit my jack. The main risk with some wishbones is the angle to the horizontal can cause the jack to slip and tip, if it's too great. OTOH you don't need to jack so high to remove wheel. The O2 angle seems reasonably flat. I suspect the smaller the roadwheel, the greater the angle needed to get some ground clearance inboard.

Did you put some copper slip on the hub locator? (the bit that goes into the centre bore of the wheels)

If not the alloys will corrode onto the hub making it very difficult to remove the wheels next time.

Did you put some copper slip on the hub locator? (the bit that goes into the centre bore of the wheels)

If not the alloys will corrode onto the hub making it very difficult to remove the wheels next time.

No alloys. Good tip though re disimilar metals. IIRC the alloy will sacrifice to the steel. Not sure re aluminium/copper/steel though?

They appear to be the FS III callipers, which are on the Mk2 Octavia PD105.

And yes, the discs can be removed without having to take the carrier off.

Now you mention it, I can just make out FS III engraved on the side.

This is how I deal with sill jack points. Pics are of my MK5 Golf but same principle applies to Octy...

Place block of wood in slot of sill then place soft padded jacket under it. Works a treat... Axial stand then placed as shown

You see trolley jack in position in this pic (far right) (Taken while changing DSG oil using my home made oil rig tool).