I've noticed that recently no matter how harshly I let the clutch up on a gear change (especially noticable on a quick shift into second) the gear change is smooth as silk. No chirp from the tyres and shove in the back like I used to get. (EDIT - Just to be clear I don't drive like that all the time :P )

Does this mean that my clutch is showing the very first signs of failure or could it be that the automatic adjustmet isn't... er... adjusting? Once it has bite it doesn't slip so it doesn't need replacing yet, I just wondered if I should see this as a heads up to get the credit card warmed up :P

The car is a late 2002 with IIRC 74k on the clock.

Thanks.

The clutch actuation on these cars is hydraulic, so there isn't a mechanical self-adjuster to fail to adjust.

So I'd start with talking to a mechanic, since you might just need a bleed and/or a new slave cylinder.

Thanks for the advice Ken, the car will be going in in a few weeks time for its MOT anyway so I will have a chat with my spanner man then.

I'd like to get it looked at sooner but I need the car for work as I'm out and about for the next few weeks :(

when mine started to go, it hesitated at 3.5k then would continue (ie it was slipping) then after a few k's miles (was on holiday) the rev would jump all over the place and power levels not changing then gave up the ghost and wouldn't put any power down. Mine went totaly at 68k I think. But all depends on use (plus who know what other owner;s did to the car)

when mine started to go, it hesitated at 3.5k then would continue (ie it was slipping) then after a few k's miles (was on holiday) the rev would jump all over the place and power levels not changing then gave up the ghost and wouldn't put any power down. Mine went totaly at 68k I think. But all depends on use (plus who know what other owner;s did to the car)

Hmmm... my one doesn't do anything like that. Maybe I'm looking for trouble that isn't there?

The way to test for a slipping clutch is to drive at the lowest possible speed in top gear (without labouring the engine) and then press the throttle hard down.

Engine rev's, should rise steadily with the vehicle speed, if you see any sudden jumps in the revs compared to the speed then your clutch is on its way out.

You can not test a clutch in any other gear than top, because a lower gear will multiply the max torque that a clutch can transmit by the gear ratio selected.

HTH

The way to test for a slipping clutch is to drive at the lowest possible speed in top gear (without labouring the engine) and then press the throttle hard down.

Engine rev's, should rise steadily with the vehicle speed, if you see any sudden jumps in the revs compared to the speed then your clutch is on its way out.

You can not test a clutch in any other gear than top, because a lower gear will multiply the max torque that a clutch can transmit by the gear ratio selected.

HTH

Was trying that today and it was all good with no slippage It just 'feels' different

I think Kens suggestions could be in the right direction...

An other way to check you clutch is this one below.

Start your engine, while the engine is idle, step on the clutch and shift 2nd gear. Then step on the brakes with your right leg, no gas pedal is needed for the test. Try to let the clutch up really slowly. If the car goes dead (i mean the engine stops) then your clutch is fine, else you may need an new clutch.

You can not test a clutch in any other gear than top, because a lower gear will multiply the max torque that a clutch can transmit by the gear ratio selected.

When my clutch started to slip on my TDi it would do it all gears, not just top, especially when attempting to pull away at speed.

When my clutch started to slip on my TDi it would do it all gears, not just top, especially when attempting to pull away at speed.

So what :confused::confused::confused:

I repeat.... only top gear will give a "true and final" assesment of a clutches maximum ability to transmit torque as in most instances its a "one to one" ratio.

Therefor, if your clutch slipped in first (which is the gear that gives maximum torque multiplication), then it stands to reason it must slip in all higher gears......simple as that.

But what do I know

Over the years I have found my own way of checking for a weak or slipping clutch and can be used before the clutch shows symptoms in normal use. Just a small caution: it can add extra wear to the clutch so might push a worn clutch over the edge.

When travelling in 4th or 5th gear at around 2500-3000rpm at constant revs and torque, dip the clutch just enough to increase revs by a few hundred then quickly release the clutch again. A worn or suspect clutch will take several seconds to resynchronise (no slip) while a good clutch will grap immediately.

Hope this helps.

I found my first signs of wear on a pretty new clutch (only done 2k since fitting).

Dumped the clutch from 4k at the toll road, didn't really make much progress. Figured the clutch had got a bit hot whilst moving in the queue. Then it engaged and off Iwent whackyracer style.

It was ok afterwards, but whenever it got hot, it would begin to slip... not really ideal when it was driven briskly quite often.

Repeat tests described above.

I was concerned about my clutch because the pedal is almost out when it engages, is this normal? There is no sign of slipping but I don't want to break down away from home or on a long journey. It would seem there is no definite way to check the amount of wear same as the brake pads.

In the old days when I started driving, 70k would be a good mileage for a first clutch and you'd check by putting in 1st gear with handbrake on, selecting 2000 rpm & trying to drive away (stall, OK, slip not OK). As you were looking for the first signs of slip, 1st gear test was more appropriate than top test.

Since then clutches have improved, so 70k is not so impressive and the top gear test has come more into favour (opinions on which is best seem to vary, as the earlier posts reflect)

So, for what my opinion is worth, I suggest that you:

• Try both tests.
  
• Check the fluid level and if it's been changed as required (I'm new to the Octy so don't know requirements here).
  
• Get free professional help - many garages, particularly clutch centres do free tests so go to at least 2 (but remember that they are not reliable as they make money from clutches' needing replacement, so check their reputation if you can & always get at least 2 quotes).
  Check out your driving style (for example, some drivers unknowingly rest their foot on the clutch, but unless you've had the car for a while then past treatment may be the cause and you won't know).
  

I'd be interested to see what you do & what the cost is (my Beetle was fairly straightforward (only special tool required as a short length of broom handle) even if the engine had to be taken out (DIY in 3 hrs) but my Golf was garage-only and would have cost me 8 hrs labour if the garage hadn't found that the gearbox was causing the problem - VW paid the bill of some £3,000 (phew)).

Good luck,

Ian

My 2002 vRS is now up to 86k on its original clutch, and whilst I used to drive like a maniac, its all nice and gentle now...... (well, most of the time......)