... because I'm not one and despite my best efforts I cannot locate any wire going into my "power" ISO block that has positive power when the ignition is live and becomes negative when I withdraw the key. It had one before I started fiddling with ICE last weekend, and when it came to re-installing I couldn't find this wire again.

Excuse the verbal drivel but I'll try to explain. There's a black and red wire going into the ISO block which then correspond to a yellow and red wire in the Pioneer wiring (i think). These have been tested with a voltmeter and there was not ONE wire that switched during ignition termination. Could it be a relay thats gone? As a clue, I did blow the 20A fuse, which was replaced... could something else have gone a bit AWOL as well.

With the wiring fault being the Skoda side of the ISO block I'm now worried... :(

As a clue I've been swapping round reds & yellows and all I get is either permanent live or totally dead, whatever the ignition's state. I'm sure that its dead in the "yellows and reds swapped over" position.

does your interior light come on when key is removed ?

does your interior light come on when key is removed ?

Hmmm. You know I did notice the other night that it didn't, unless I flicked it to "on 100% of the time" button. Could this be a clue?

Been out to test

1) Remote locKKKing makes light turn on.

2) Starting engine kills light

3) Turn off engine - light off

4) Take key out of ignition - light STILL off.

5) Open door - light turns on

6) Lock car remotely - light turns off again

Hope this helps, or gives a clue.

Jason, I think red should be 12v always, and the yellow switched. Could be the other way round though. Either way you should get 12v on both with the ignition on, dont forget black is the -ve. So basically using a volt meter connect the probes, Red - Black and Yellow - Black. If one doesnt come alive check the appropriate fuse.

Jason, I think red should be 12v always, and the yellow switched. Could be the other way round though. Either way you should get 12v on both with the ignition on, dont forget black is the -ve. So basically using a volt meter connect the probes, Red - Black and Yellow - Black. If one doesnt come alive check the appropriate fuse.

Edit: I was talking poop

Been out to test

1) Remote locKKKing makes light turn on.

2) Starting engine kills light

3) Turn off engine - light off

4) Take key out of ignition - light STILL off.

5) Open door - light turns on

6) Lock car remotely - light turns off again

Hope this helps' date=' or gives a clue. [/quote']

if your interior light doesn't come on when you pull the key out then you have a problem with the "s contact" ie the little switch in your ignition barrel which means all the radio live wires won't switch too neutral when key is removed.

Jason, do you hear a loud kind of mechanical switch going when you pull the key out of the ignition? When I pull the key slowly on mine, the "click" goes when key is about 90% out and that always coincides with the light going out

if your interior light doesn't come on when you pull the key out then you have a problem with the "s contact" ie the little switch in your ignition barrel which means all the radio live wires won't switch too neutral when key is removed.

Hmmm... Little odd. I'm not sure I had damaged anything in the ignition barrel whilst working on the HU.

:confused:

How does one go about investigating this contact then? I was secretly hoping I had just blown another one of the fuses and simply had to replace it - would be a lot easier than ripping the ignition to bits. :(

Xavier - I do get the mechanical click when taking the key out - a big CLICK! But the interior light stays out until I open the door.

Devonutopia...why on earth are you messing around with the wiring? In my passat where I fitted a Blaupunkt Woodstock DAB rasdio and having ISO blocks there WAS still a need for a converter harness. Surely it would have been far easier to get a small conversion harness for your unit?

Devonutopia...why on earth are you messing around with the wiring? In my passat where I fitted a Blaupunkt Woodstock DAB rasdio and having ISO blocks there WAS still a need for a converter harness. Surely it would have been far easier to get a small conversion harness for your unit?

Indeed. I'm in the process of fitting various gauges to my Fab and I decided to run the power from the HU cables, rather than take it right back to the fuse box. I bought male & female ISO blocks from Maplin's, a load of coloured wire and receptacle contacts with push-on insulated covers. This way, I can do all my wiring out of the car, keep the car unaltered and make the cable as long as I need it to be.

Incidentally on the ISO wiring, orange is dimmer (therefore tied to the lights), black is ground (obviously), white is +12V switched, yellow is +12V ignition. I think.

Hmmm. The problem here is that the HU was fine before I started messing about. I'd kill the ignition, it would turn off, prompt you to remove the faceplate, and then go back to normal. Likewise it would come on again when the ignition was started. The problem now seems to be despite having the HU in the same way, i.e the same way in the ISO blocks, the same yellow/red pattern, it is now totally dead. K obviously asked about the light not coming on when the ignition was removed, and has apparently resolved the issue, I just need to know where to go from here.

I've not touched any of the ISO wiring, on the car side of things, but with proper instructions and a good method of approach, I have cut the 4 speaker wires in the Pioneer's wiring and crimped them to the speaker wires coming from the amplifier in the boot, to power the door speakers. That was done fine - It was just the problems with the head unit not working as it should after that's buggin' me. :(

j have a look in your manual at the wiring diagram and see if there is a fuse for the s contact i can't remember off hand.