Hi there learned friends.

I mentioned it earlier in a thread but I thought I'd put the question to the masses (Matt VRS I think said he has a similar noise).

The noise is most noticeable at 30-40mph in 3rd or 4th (but is there in other gears to) when you back off the throttle so the car is coasting. It sounds like a whine from the diff, quite noisy but pretty much drowned out if the radio is on.

As soon as you put the power back in the noise stops immediately, so it would appear only to occur when the wheels are driving the transmission rather then the engine (if that makes sense). The noise is louder if you are in gear, quieter if you dip the clutch or freewheel in neutral which makes me think it's something downwind of the gearbox, ie the 'diff'.

I'm sure it isn't about to fall to bits and I'm not too worried about it. As an (aircraft) engineer, I'm definitely not one for having things dismantled unless they really need it but I'm interested to see if this is a common noise or a rare one.

Furby has now done 1100 miles (facelifted) and it's done it from new - always the same level of noise, oh and it's running Michelin Primacys. I spoke to the dealer (salesman) but he said he never lifts his foot off the accelerator!

And don't any of you non-black vRS owners tell me it's because it's black...

Cheers, Jerry

It's because it's b...

lol, just kidding.

Mine has done it from day one too.. I'm not that bothered about it (more bothered about the rattle inside the passenger front door grrrrr)

It's because it's b...

lol' date=' just kidding.

Mine has done it from day one too.. I'm not that bothered about it (more bothered about the rattle inside the passenger front door grrrrr)[/quote']

Thanks for that, Josh - makes me feel much happier. I like to think it's got a straight cut racing gearbox - ahh the happy times a few years back listening to a grid full of MG Metros line up at Silverstone!

BTW, apparently all silver Furbys have rattling front passenger doors....

Jerry

I have a slight rattle that has started in my passenger side door, but it goes away if I unlock that door, I'm going to mention it at it's first service to see if they can do anything.

Heath

Hi,

My 1 week old vRS has the same ' diff ' whine but then it has only done 350 miles. I'm going to change the engine oil at 1000 miles and will be tempted to change the gear oil if the noise hasn't cleared up. I wonder if the 6 speed Seat's and VW's do it too?.. hmm..

I've not come across this in SEAT/Audi or Skoda as yet. But if you are concerned get your dealer to have a look, the more times a possible problem gets reported the more likely a remedy will be sorted.

Hi' date='

My 1 week old vRS has the same ' diff ' whine but then it has only done 350 miles. I'm going to change the engine oil at 1000 miles and will be tempted to change the gear oil if the noise hasn't cleared up. I wonder if the 6 speed Seat's and VW's do it too?.. hmm..[/quote']

I would have a look at the forums... some months ago there was a fair bit of discussion about the dis/advantages of changing engine oil before the car goes in for its first service at 10k miles (or 12 months if only doing limited mileage).

I would get the dealer to look at the transmission if you are concerned anbout the whine, rather than change the gear oil. Intersesting that a few new Fabia vrs owners have made comment about such a noise recently.

I would have a look at the forums... some months ago there was a fair bit of discussion about the dis/advantages of changing engine oil before the car goes in for its first service at 10k miles (or 12 months if only doing limited mileage).

I would get the dealer to look at the transmission if you are concerned anbout the whine' date=' rather than change the gear oil. Intersesting that a few new Fabia vrs owners have made comment about such a noise recently.[/quote']

Thanks for that, I'll do a search...

My dealer surprised me this morning. Popped in for a top-up can of engine oil and instead he gave me the remains of a can from a service they were just performing, about a litre of oil for nothing. Nice one Jacksons of Basingstoke!

Thanks for that' date=' I'll do a search...

My dealer surprised me this morning. Popped in for a top-up can of engine oil and instead he gave me the remains of a can from a service they were just performing, about a litre of oil for nothing. Nice one Jacksons of Basingstoke! [/quote']

Thanks for the replies, I'll mention it again (to the technicians) when I go to the dealer next - it would appear I'm not alone but that doesn't mean it's meant to be, but as I said I don't like over maintenance if it isn't a real problem.

As for the early engine oil change, my understanding on the modern car engines with their modern oils is to leave it in there for the first 10k miles. The idea is that the crud in the oil effectively acts as a grinding paste to bed the rings in.

On light aircraft, which generally use flat 4 or 6 cylinder air-cooled engines, we use what's called a 'straight' oil for the first 50 hours (about 5000 miles). This is to use the bits that have been knocked off the inside of the engine to help bed the rings in! The first two or so hours are done mostly at 75% power (a car at 70mph on the motorway is running at 12-15% power) which is all fairly scary with a new engine! [Aircraft engines are designed to run constantly at 65-75% power.] Failure to do this will mean the pistons don't bed in and the cylinder bores 'glaze' resulting in high oil consumption and low compressions, the only way out of this is to remove the cylinders and 'galze bust' the bores.

Thanks for the replies, folks

Jerry

My VRS has 200 miles on the clock, I've noticed the same whine, I just think that's how it is, many other cars i've driven emit the same kind of whine. It's probably only those with a bit of mechanical knowledge that tune into this kind of thing, I'm not going worry over it.

Only minor point is a rattle from the passenger door area. I've traced it to the central locking pin, if you put your finger on it or open the locking mechanism it goes away. If it persists I'm going to get the dealer to have a look at it.

Not too keen on the speed governed automatic door locking either, my passengers seem intent on trying to rip off the inside door handle to get out!

Not too keen on the speed governed automatic door locking either, my passengers seem intent on trying to rip off the inside door handle to get out!

It can easily be deactivated by your dealer or with VAG-COM software.

Not too keen on the speed governed automatic door locking either, my passengers seem intent on trying to rip off the inside door handle to get out!

Hahaha, yup I get that to

On light aircraft, which generally use flat 4 or 6 cylinder air-cooled engines, we use what's called a 'straight' oil for the first 50 hours (about 5000 miles). This is to use the bits that have been knocked off the inside of the engine to help bed the rings in! The first two or so hours are done mostly at 75% power (a car at 70mph on the motorway is running at 12-15% power) which is all fairly scary with a new engine! [Aircraft engines are designed to run constantly at 65-75% power.] Failure to do this will mean the pistons don't bed in and the cylinder bores 'glaze' resulting in high oil consumption and low compressions, the only way out of this is to remove the cylinders and 'galze bust' the bores.

I hope you keep the Fabia on the ground

Thanks for the replies' date=' I'll mention it again (to the technicians) when I go to the dealer next - it would appear I'm not alone but that doesn't mean it's meant to be, but as I said I don't like over maintenance if it isn't a real problem.

As for the early engine oil change, my understanding on the modern car engines with their modern oils is to leave it in there for the first 10k miles. The idea is that the crud in the oil effectively acts as a grinding paste to bed the rings in.

On light aircraft, which generally use flat 4 or 6 cylinder air-cooled engines, we use what's called a 'straight' oil for the first 50 hours (about 5000 miles). This is to use the bits that have been knocked off the inside of the engine to help bed the rings in! The first two or so hours are done mostly at 75% power (a car at 70mph on the motorway is running at 12-15% power) which is all fairly scary with a new engine! [Aircraft engines are designed to run constantly at 65-75% power.'] Failure to do this will mean the pistons don't bed in and the cylinder bores 'glaze' resulting in high oil consumption and low compressions, the only way out of this is to remove the cylinders and 'galze bust' the bores.

Thanks for the replies, folks

Jerry

A few years back my Dad (now in his mid 70's) got a new pug 309 1.6 petrol - his first new car for years. So he 'ran' it in as you would have done a car in the 50's.....resulting in glazed bores and oil smoke at 10k miles!

He worked in the bus industry and had a long chat with the sales rep from Shell. He said that the oils were so good these days, combined with more accurrate and consistant machining of engine parts that it could take 10k miles to 'run in' an engine - in fact he recommended using the cheapest oil possible for the first 1000 miles or so to allow some metal to metal contact.

Similarly a friend of mine built a highly tuned Honda Fireblade.....I asked him what oil he was going to start it up on.......Mobil 1 he replied...... I suggested to much laughter that he use oil at

My new Fabia VRS has the same whine on the over run between 30 and 40 mph. Just left it in for a replacement gearbox! Will let you know how i get on guys.