Hello my Fabia heater blower when on settings 2 and above rattles the whole dash and it sounds like a lawn mower. Is this a cheap fix or a new part? any one experienced this? Thanks Glenn

Remove pollen filter and rake about for debris in the air intake duct. If it's clear, probably new heater motor. Not an easy job.

It'll be full of crap!

Pull the pollen filter out, Stick it on recirc and have a root about.

Put something down to protect the mat and carpet!

Good luck

thanks where is the pollen filter? where would i o to get something like a heater motor replaced? ive got 3 weeks left of a skoda approved car warranty. Thanks

Pollen filter is under passenger side glove box. Slide two clips together and remove cover, then yank out filter.

Thanks MoggyTech & MikeB ill have a bash at this tomorrow. Worst case though, how much do heater motor's go for? thanks

Removed the pollen filter and cleaned it out Still no difference does this mean its loking like the motor? thanks

Sounds like the bearings have gone....

You could get one cheap enough from a scarp yard.

Sounds like the bearings have gone....

You could get one cheap enough from a scarp yard.

The bearings? in the motor? how easy are they to replace? thanks

The bearings? in the motor? how easy are they to replace? thanks

Need complete motor, it's a sealed unit.

Is this the blower that sits behind the glovebox in the circular black plastic casing, or another one? I know I have had leaves and other crud get stuck in that fan sometimes, and you get a kind of "playing card in the bicycle spokes" noise. It is releatively easy to strip down said plastic housing with a T20 screwdriver, and unclipping the wiring loom which runs in front of it.

Is this the blower that sits behind the glovebox in the circular black plastic casing, or another one? I know I have had leaves and other crud get stuck in that fan sometimes, and you get a kind of "playing card in the bicycle spokes" noise. It is releatively easy to strip down said plastic housing with a T20 screwdriver, and unclipping the wiring loom which runs in front of it.

Hello yeah thats what it sounds like i took the pollen filter out today and turned it on and the noise appear to be coming from around that area, is this what your refering to? Thanks

Yeah, the pollen filter sits after that blower, so you should have been able to hear the noise coming from "the left" if you know what I mean, when your head is up in below the pollen filter

Remove glovebox = 5 or 6 torx - 2 down low, 3 inside door, 1 on outside edge (I think) behind removeable side panel. Then just T20 bolts (from memory) to get the front cover off to reveal the fan behind, It is tight behind/under that part of the dash so expect no mercy, and a torch really helps too.

Yeah, the pollen filter sits after that blower, so you should have been able to hear the noise coming from "the left" if you know what I mean, when your head is up in below the pollen filter

Remove glovebox = 5 or 6 torx - 2 down low, 3 inside door, 1 on outside edge (I think) behind removeable side panel. Then just T20 bolts (from memory) to get the front cover off to reveal the fan behind, It is tight behind/under that part of the dash so expect no mercy, and a torch really helps too.

Yeah i could hear it coming from there, so you reckon its just a trapped leaf or somthing? the noise get louder the faster setting you put it on. I hope it is i dont really want to fork out for a new motor. Thanks

First of all take all precautions to avoid injury and do not attempt this if you do not feel capable.

My Fabia Combi 2006 was the same in that there was a lot of noise and vibration coming from the Heater Motor when it started it was quieter and then after a while it would get louder and louder and then stop, in fact it stopped completely eventually. In all speeds that is not just in the slow ones.

I followed the instructions above about removing the 5 screws 2 from below the glove box and before I took the 3 from the top, I removed the 2 pivot pins through the hinges of the glove box door, they just pull towards the middle. That gave me more room to undo the 3 screws inside the top of the glove box. One thing though, remember to put those pivot pins back in with the flat of the wider piece at the bottom it is a little fiddly getting them in but worth removing them to get the top screws easily. Once you have the sidecover off (same as the fusebox cover) the Motor is visible and if you take out the 5 screws holding the shroud over the motor and unplug the electrical connector you can easily remove the motor with the shroud. You can then take off the main input plug on the left hand side which has a groove that slides on to the shroud press the plate of the shroud towards the engine and the connector slides off and you can move the motor and shroud out of the way. Snip the cable tie off the wire clip and you can remove them all together. You can now get access to the resistor and remove the connector and then swivel the resistor 45 degrees anti clockwise to remove it to check it is ok. You can also get access to the resistor from inside the shroud to help turn it, but do not use too much pressure.

I found that the problem was dry bearings on the motor and I oiled them with a drop (only a drop) of engine oil and then spun the fan to allow it to penetrate. You can remove the motor from the shroud by just pulling it out but the electrical connector has to have 2 very small screwdrivers pushed into the 2 holes either side of the spade terminals from the outside and then it comes out from the inside of the shroud mind the 4 rubber motor supports which on re-assembly have to have their tabs pushed out the holes to lock the motor back into place (see the white spots). You can then access the inner bearing to oil it. Re-assembly is the reverse of dismantling but remember to put a new cable tie to hold the loom up, and test the motor at all speeds before you completely re-assemble the dash. You can connect the plugs on the motor connector to a 12 volt source when the thing is dismantled but as mentioned before, mind your fingers that fan could do damage! After you have assembled the dash, lift the bonnet up and pull the rubber seal at the back of the engine forwards on the LHS and take off the Passenger side of the cover under the wipers don't bother to take off the wipers they are over the other side. If you wiggle it around you can get under it to take off the cover over the inlet filter for the heater/ventilator which has two large posidrive screws holding it and then a lot of wriggling to get that out. Once it is out slide the cover of the filter to one side and then it just pulls off. When replacing the cover the top goes in under the metal plate and then the cover under the wipers has to fit into a slot at the bottom of the windscreen. that presses in. You must put the rubber seal back on over the plate at the back of the engine it holds a tab of the wiper plate down at the front. If you do not do that you will get a lot of CO (Carbon Monoxide) from the engine sucked into the cabin, which needless to say is very very dangerous. Good Luck.

Great description James33. My 2nd resistor pack failed within 3 months so decided to look at the fan. Followed your instructions and fan would only spin a half turn by hand spin. Oiled top and bottom (used a pipette for the bottom as it’s hard to get to), fan spins nice and freely now, let’s see how long the new resistor pack lasts. Fan is 11 years old now so perhaps needs replacing. Thanks!