Having not owned a FWD for a looong time, I am wanting to know if the vRS Diesel is a wheel-spinner anyway In the damp it seems pretty much impossible to retain traction if you stick your foot down at all. Even in the dry its hard!

Tyres are fine so just wanted to see if this is something I just need to get used to or are there things I can do?

Cheers,

Andy

Oh yes, they spin the wheels!

My PD is very peaky too so pulling away in a hurry can be a bit of fun with the traction control pulling the car back.

The only thing you can do is be smooth on the power and clutch and dip the clutch slightly or ease off the throttle when you feel slip. and leave the traction control on of course

Steve

Edited 26 January, 201016 yr by Steve vRS

Remap, to lower the torque peak and widen the torque band to make the car much more useable throughout the revs. I was getting fed up with a sudden blast of torque and then nothin, so a DPF removal and remap quickly solved that that issue.

Now Its A

That's not a bad idea Tom! I like the idea of having more usable power

I am just used to being able to floor it and not spin quite so much hehe!!

Remember as well that the roads are really greasy at the minute with all the salt and grip that's been put doen due to the snow - I have trouble with the Fabia and that's only a TDi 100 (albeit with pikey mod!) - the TC light was going mental the other day...

4x4 is what you need

Sit with you seat further away from the pedals.

HTH

Sit with you seat further away from the pedals.

HTH

Hehe thats not a bad idea - breaking might be fun tho

Hmm I bet a torquey 4x4 would be the same

It's because dervs get that large spike of torque, rather than feeding it in.

Learn to drive around it

"Tyres are fine" - Are they? Make can be as relevant as tread depth.

Yeah tyres are still very good - I think it is just it is different to what I am used to and like Babs says, I need to just drive around what the car is capable of - but I think a remap will be on the cards

but I think a remap will be on the cards

Good Man

Yeah tyres are still very good -

Continue doing wheel spins and they wont stay like that for long!! I've never known tyres to wear so quickly as on a derv Octavia. Admittedly mines only a lowly 140bhp 2.0TDi but it still wears qickly and I hardly ever wheel spin. Most of my driving used to be multivalve petrol engined FWD cars so when the power kicked in at 5k+ RPM you were already making progress and so less wear on the tyres.

After my first ever test drive in the Octy and I got back into my 16V Golf, it felt ever so slow in comparison! I then knew I had to have the derv!

Yeah tyres are still very good - I think it is just it is different to what I am used to and like Babs says, I need to just drive around what the car is capable of - but I think a remap will be on the cards

I keep getting tempted by a remap, but the extra insurance premiums I'm getting quoted are ridiculous.

I keep getting tempted by a remap, but the extra insurance premiums I'm getting quoted are ridiculous.

""" I've Heard """ that you can remap the car and it will not be noticed , even by a mechanic in the Stealer using their VCDS software . (Even if you know the lad and bet them to try and find it, see can they even find the date at which it was done )

It depends on how good your mapper is, but they can modify the mapping and rename it as the OEM map that was on the car.

Mapper can save your OEM maps externaly for future reference BTW

So theoreticaly , you could get away with a white lie ....

Simples

Edited 26 January, 201016 yr by tom1362

""" I've Heard """ that you can remap the car and it will not be noticed , even by a mechanic in the Stealer using their VCDS software . (Even if you know the lad and bet them to try and find it, see can they even find the date at which it was done )

It depends on how good your mapper is, but they can modify the mapping and rename it as the OEM map that was on the car.

Mapper can save your OEM maps externaly for future reference BTW

So theoreticaly , you could get away with a white lie ....

Simples

only problem you have there is if there is someone sneakier at the other end that finds it, then no insurance payout.

only problem you have there is if there is someone sneakier at the other end that finds it, then no insurance payout.

I agree, but you don't get snealier than a lad that makes a living doing this. Same lad works with a well known team on the BTCC circuit .

I agree, but you don't get snealier than a lad that makes a living doing this. Same lad works with a well known team on the BTCC circuit .

Lol, would this lad be floating a bout on these forums perchance?

Lol, would this lad be floating a bout on these forums perchance?

Unfortunatley not. He's from Kildare in Ireland. Pilots a B4 Legacy Estate

you can reduce it quite a bit with some choice mods.

this is the reason i chose the TFSI over the TDI. i test drove both in the wet, and the TDI span and wheel hopped so easily in comparsion. it also lit up the inside wheel when cornering hard as well.

if you want rid of wheel hop get an uprated lower subframe mount which practically eliminates engine rock which is the cause of wheel hop. http://www.volkswagenracing.co.uk/Golf%205%20Pages/Golf%20DrivetrainEngine%20Mounts.html review of it here http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5082.0, ive driven a 360hp cupra with one and was pretty impressed, no vibration that i noticed either (unless you upgrade the side mounts which i wouldnt reccomend)

i found after i fitted coilovers i wheel span less, as the back didnt squat so much under acceleration, leaving more weight over the front axle

and lastly, get some decent tyres, my vreds are so much better in the dry and wet than my toyo T1Rs were

Edited 26 January, 201016 yr by vRSy

""" I've Heard """ that you can remap the car and it will not be noticed , even by a mechanic in the Stealer using their VCDS software . (Even if you know the lad and bet them to try and find it, see can they even find the date at which it was done )

It depends on how good your mapper is, but they can modify the mapping and rename it as the OEM map that was on the car.

Mapper can save your OEM maps externaly for future reference BTW

So theoreticaly , you could get away with a white lie ....

Simples

Trouble is, even if the has the same name as the OEM, the checksum will be different so could be spotted by someone who knows what they're doing (and trust me, the insurance companies do have people who know what they're doing) Admittedly, a lot of the time it wouldn't be checked, but I wouldn't risk it as knowing my luck, my car would be checked...

Best bet would be something like shark90s device where you could save the original map and in the event of a claim shove it back on before the insurance gets to see the car :-) When's that out for the CR?

Out of interest, how much extra is the insurance company wanting from you Harlequin?

you can reduce it quite a bit with some choice mods.

this is the reason i chose the TFSI over the TDI. i test drove both in the wet, and the TDI span and wheel hopped so easily in comparsion. it also lit up the inside wheel when cornering hard as well.

if you want rid of wheel hop get an uprated lower subframe mount which practically eliminates engine rock which is the cause of wheel hop. http://www.volkswagenracing.co.uk/Golf%205%20Pages/Golf%20DrivetrainEngine%20Mounts.html review of it here http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5082.0, ive driven a 360hp cupra with one and was pretty impressed, no vibration that i noticed either (unless you upgrade the side mounts which i wouldnt reccomend)

i found after i fitted coilovers i wheel span less, as the back didnt squat so much under acceleration, leaving more weight over the front axle

and lastly, get some decent tyres, my vreds are so much better in the dry and wet than my toyo T1Rs were

Looks like something else to add to the wanted list

Thanks for that dude - I will certainly be getting those!

Looks like something else to add to the wanted list

Thanks for that dude - I will certainly be getting those!

the lower one is all you need really, the side mounts from VWR are very expensive, and you can get other brands for a lot less, but i think are not really needed. I have the powerflex torque arm insert and it didnt do that much to be honest. I shall be upgrading to one of these in the future.

Trouble is, even if the has the same name as the OEM, the checksum will be different so could be spotted by someone who knows what they're doing (and trust me, the insurance companies do have people who know what they're doing) Admittedly, a lot of the time it wouldn't be checked, but I wouldn't risk it as knowing my luck, my car would be checked...

Best bet would be something like shark90s device where you could save the original map and in the event of a claim shove it back on before the insurance gets to see the car :-) When's that out for the CR?

Out of interest, how much extra is the insurance company wanting from you Harlequin?

Thus far the only quote I got was from Admiral, my current insurers, this was to cover me from Dec - March after changing my car. The additonal for the straight stock car, 50 quid, for if it has an extra 30BHP - 100 quid. Apparently they cant do a full quote until march. Acording to compare.com stock would cost me about 400 a year with 150 excess.

Thus far the only quote I got was from Admiral, my current insurers, this was to cover me from Dec - March after changing my car. The additonal for the straight stock car, 50 quid, for if it has an extra 30BHP - 100 quid. Apparently they cant do a full quote until march. Acording to compare.com stock would cost me about 400 a year with 150 excess.

Think I'll be leaving mine as standard then, my driving history is not the cleanest (9 points in the last 5 years with another 3 on the way, although 6 of those disappear forever this year) and I'll also have a claim on record at next years renewal...

Now, where do I get my right foot lightened?

Thus far the only quote I got was from Admiral, my current insurers, this was to cover me from Dec - March after changing my car. The additonal for the straight stock car, 50 quid, for if it has an extra 30BHP - 100 quid. Apparently they cant do a full quote until march. Acording to compare.com stock would cost me about 400 a year with 150 excess.

i found when in the market for my car was is prettty highl modded that chris knott and adrian flux were way out ahead.