I've had all sorts of problems with my DMF and clutch, its reached a point where i can't change gear over 2000 RPM's. I've deliberated over what to do with replacing the clutch for almost a week and ended up talking it through with police mechanics from work who service our Skoda's. Turns out they get the parts from a Skoda dealer up north who i contacted and got a brand new original genuine DMF and clutch for £294 and have found someone to do the replacement for £180 on Thurs evening.

They agree the solid flywheels are less problematic but the clutches wear out so much quicker with the thrashing the police give them so they always replace with original parts each time, they last twice as long apparently, sometimes even 40K before a replacement needed where as a solid will give out around 15-20K.

Anyone else need to know where to get the genuine clutch and dual mass flywheel let me know - they dont want it advertised!

just out of interest mate how long do they get from engines before rebuilds, and likewise for turbos and suchlike?

Serious note,

What is the difference between DMF and Single?

How come the single wears out faster?

I dont get it?

I do get what you mean about the feel in the clutch tho, my old astra was pritty nice and you could feel it on the bite more were as this one, I find myself riding it longer as I am unsure weather it in or not,

Here's a rather boring video of the play on my old DMF, you might be able to get how it works from it:

This is an excellent animation of how they work:

This is me and a mate having fun on the 'ring in a Lotus (contains swearing!):

Oh and yeah still in 'Udders mate! Frikkin cold up here!

Here's a rather boring video of the play on my old DMF, you might be able to get how it works from it:

GEEK lol

This is an excellent animation of how they work: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzUBER geek

This is me and a mate having fun on the 'ring in a Lotus (contains swearing!):

Oh and yeah still in 'Udders mate! Frikkin cold up here! Ill bet lol, Not been up since Xmas, hope to soon tho

cheers mate

ill take a look at them

Edited 4 February, 201016 yr by billy2981

i had this on my car and its amazing works well a deffo to do once your original is fecked

yea i can see now y there is no feel.

i take it there is more force on this one than the std one?

just out of interest mate how long do they get from engines before rebuilds, and likewise for turbos and suchlike?

I ended up chatting for ages about all of this, plus one of the guys is happy to do cash in hand work on the side if i ever need it. (RESULT!)

The VRS' at work all have engine run kits which mean the moment the keys are taken out the ignition the engine will continue to run which helps the turbo cool properly so at the end of a pursuit or a high speed drive the engine isnt instantly turned off leaving the turbo to run dry, even with this the turbo's have been fairly sturdy. One car had a replacement turbo within 5K from new where others have reached 80K. The mechanics all reallly rate the engines and gearboxes too, apart from the coil packs, they keep stacks of these in reserve. The cars are serviced between 6 - 8k but generally they end up going in before this as someone will have hit a kerb, shreadded the tyres of ended up taking damage to the front end. They did say the gearbox oil is changed every service too which has meant most of the cars have managed to avoid diff noises.

The only other thing they mentioned was the sloppy build of some of the frame, the subframe has numerous spot welded nuts within it, these welds always seem to fail and they end up stripping out the frames to repair or replace however the whole car is constructed so simply its not exactly a difficult job

Ive only recently converted to a single mass flywheel but ive noticed im getting a slight judder on the bite. But all is ok when driving.

Can someone explain why im getting this small problem please.

Thanks in advance.

Try giving it some more revs on the biting point. Might suggest the clutch needs a bit of bedding in. How many miles have you done on it roughly?

Thanks for the speedy reply Bodge

Its probably only done 150-200 miles since i had it done but yes your right giving it more revs does irradicate the juddering.

Its just annoying when in traffic when your stopping and starting.

Thanks again

Traffic is probably what's causing it, I expect it should go though once the clutch has bedded in.

My old impreza used to develop clutch judder all the time because it spent so much time in stop/start traffic. The cure was to do a 4k 'launch' but that doesn't do the drivetrain any good. Eventually it had a P1 clutch fitted as a replacement under warranty.

Thanks for the speedy reply Bodge

Its probably only done 150-200 miles since i had it done but yes your right giving it more revs does irradicate the juddering.

Its just annoying when in traffic when your stopping and starting.

Thanks again

Yeah the clutch definately isn't bedded in then. Most people say do 500 miles of town driving, before putting any serious torque through it.

The idea behind the town driving is that it involves lots of gentle stop-start clutch use, to wear the friction disc into the flywheel/coverplate, without taking too much life off the clutch.

What clutch kit did you get then?

The VRS' at work all have engine run kits which mean the moment the keys are taken out the ignition the engine will continue to run which helps the turbo cool properly so at the end of a pursuit or a high speed drive the engine isnt instantly turned off leaving the turbo to run dry, even with this the turbo's have been fairly sturdy.

I thought turbo timers were illegal, under the legislation about not leaving a vehicle unattended with the engine running.

dont forget also that coppers cars have to power a lot of kit and if they just turned off the car they would flatten the batteries very fast.

oh and they are police lol, they are the law

Edited 9 February, 201016 yr by billy2981

I thought turbo timers were illegal, under the legislation about not leaving a vehicle unattended with the engine running.

The offence is called quitting, i know we completely contradict what the law states. Its basically to keep the engine running to keep the equipment in the car running as the battery would only last a few hours, even with the run kits the batteries always fail every 6 months or so!

Just an update to this, I got the £35 surcharge for the flywheel back off Skoda last week! They took their time, but we got there in the end!

So genuine parts cost a total of £178. Not bad hey.

So what bits do i need to convert a 130PD to a solid flywheel as my cluth is getting done on thurs!!?

So what bits do i need to convert a 130PD to a solid flywheel as my cluth is getting done on thurs!!?

You'll need a completely different kit for the 130PD as it's got a totally different gearbox. This conversion only works with 5-speed boxes.

So I don't think you'll be able to make up your own kit from selected existing parts like I did. I'm sure you can find a SMF kit though.

Try this maybe: http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.9_2003/p/Car-Parts/Transmission/Clutch-and-Associated-Parts/Solid-Flywheel-Conversions

Ta

Yeah ive looked at these already and i spoke to one of the guys from Eurocarparts and he said that the solid kits they have do fit the PD but he also says that they are the same as the 110 which i know isnt right! so i guess its a DFM then!

Plus eurocarparts are useless at the best of time!

Should get someone there that speaks bloody engish!!!!!

What did you do regarding the release bearing?

i think mines started to slip after 140k lol

cambelts due again so easier to lift engine out and do clutch and belt at the same time.

What did you do regarding the release bearing?

i think mines started to slip after 140k lol

cambelts due again so easier to lift engine out and do clutch and belt at the same time.

Clutch kit includes a new release bearing, and the VR6 uses the same part as the vRS, so it's a straight swap.

I wouldn't have said it's easier lifting the entire engine out just to do a clutch and cambelt! But I guess it's up to you. Would be fun to get it out I guess!

Clutch kit includes a new release bearing, and the VR6 uses the same part as the vRS, so it's a straight swap.

I wouldn't have said it's easier lifting the entire engine out just to do a clutch and cambelt! But I guess it's up to you. Would be fun to get it out I guess!

Surprisingly easy to be fair, take the whole front panel off and it will come out the front.

plus once it's out i can give it a damm good clean and sort any small leaks out etc.....

off to nurburgring again in roughly 8 weeks so need to make sure it's all up to scratch!!!

so will the vr6 clutch and the g60 flywheel fit straight in without having to do any extra mods right?

so will the vr6 clutch and the g60 flywheel fit straight in without having to do any extra mods right?

Yup! Absolutely no mods required. It's a straight bolt on conversion. All the parts you need are the ones I've listed.

I've had all sorts of problems with my DMF and clutch, its reached a point where i can't change gear over 2000 RPM's. I've deliberated over what to do with replacing the clutch for almost a week and ended up talking it through with police mechanics from work who service our Skoda's. Turns out they get the parts from a Skoda dealer up north who i contacted and got a brand new original genuine DMF and clutch for £294 and have found someone to do the replacement for £180 on Thurs evening.

They agree the solid flywheels are less problematic but the clutches wear out so much quicker with the thrashing the police give them so they always replace with original parts each time, they last twice as long apparently, sometimes even 40K before a replacement needed where as a solid will give out around 15-20K.

Anyone else need to know where to get the genuine clutch and dual mass flywheel let me know - they dont want it advertised!

Hi johnnyp,

can you tell me the dealer you refer to please as I'd prefer to stay with OE parts thanks.

Kind regards,

wuzz

Edited 17 November, 201015 yr by Wuzz

Did the Single Mass flywheel conversion to my 110tdi last week. Did it in my gararge & apart from the difficulty getting the gearbox in & out it went ok. Took us 2 afternoons in total.

The kit was £168 delivered from ebay with a 4 year 40k miles warranty. The gearbox hadn't been off before apparently so I was amazed that the clutch showed no sign of wear after nearly 140k miles especially as its my work car, doing town work, lugging tools & spares around & reversing up peoples driveways all day!

As previously said on here the clutch is much much lighter, really notice the difference when jumping back into the vRS, but I must say that for me there is a big dowm side in increased NVH. The dual mass really soaked up a lot of diesel vibration & stopped it reaching the driver. The car now feels much closer to my Nephews 1.9D Feli in it's coarseness, even down to more of a kick when you turn the engine off just like his does!