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Fabia II HID Headlight fitting guide


Hauptmann

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Fitting HIDS-Direct 35W HID kit to Fabia II (Level 2 & 3 trim with projector headlights).

The Fabia II Trim 2 and 3 uses ‘bi-halogen’ headlamps that use a single H7 bulb for both dipped and main beam. So a single HID kit upgrades both dipped and main beam performance.

Parts Required: HIDS-Direct 'Ultra' 35W 4300K HID conversion kit.

A selection of self-tapping screws, M5 or M6 and matching speed nuts (optional).

Tools Required: Drill and drill bits.

Screwdrivers

Pliers.

File or bench grinder for fettling metal bulb holders.

This is the kit that I bought. from HIDS-Direct:

http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/hid-conversion-kits-35w/h1h3h7h1190059006-hid-kits/ultra-35w-single-beam-hid-conversion-kits-p-265.html

I ordered it with H7 bulb fitting and a colour temperature of 4300K (this is a white colour, same as OEM HIDs).

The Fabia headlights use special metal bulb holders to convert the H7 base fitting to a ‘bayonet’ style fitting.

STP81099.jpg

You can modify the original holders to accept the HID kit, or you can buy new holders with a ‘split’ to allow the wiring to pass through. I ordered these new holders....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270525529021&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The new holders had longer locking ‘ears’ than the OE Skoda holders and so I carefully fettled these to make them identical to the Skoda items. You also need to file away (or bend flat) the outer locating tab on the base of the metal bulb holder (to permit the bulb to be mounted with its 'key tab' at the top rather than the bottom of the holder - more on this later).

I unclipped the OE Skoda metal holders and will keep them with the OE halogen bulbs to permit a quick conversion back to halogen, should the HIDs fail.

The HID kit itself comprises three main parts for each headlamp: a ballast unit; a prewired HID bulb with integral wiring grommet and a metal ballast mounting plate. Note the extra hole I drilled at the 'wide' end of the mounting plate to enable an extra fastener to be used to make the mounting more secure. I also chose to use a Spire speed nut and large self-tapper to secure the 'strip' end of the mounting plate - rather than use the small and fiddly nut and bolt supplied with the kit (See pictures below).

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First of all I removed the original halogen headlight bulb and compared it against the HID bulb. The HID bulb is about 2mm longer, but most importantly the burner part of the bulb (the light source) is located the same distance from the bulb base as the halogen bulb filament (25mm) and is also the same length (4mm). This means that the HID light source will be in exactly the same location as the halogen light source and so sitting nicely in the ‘sweet spot’ (focal point) of the projector lens. Beam pattern and cut-off should therefore be the same, although a lot brighter. (see picture). Note that the HID bilb has a ceramic sheathed "return wire" running up the outside of the bulb, this must be located facing toward the BOTTOM of the headlamp unit. During dipped operation the light from the bottom of the bulb is obscured by a shutter, and so not used. If the bulb is fitted with the return wire located toward the top of the headlight unit then the return wire will cast a large shadow into the dipped beam, severly reducing the amount of light hitting the road!

CAUTION: Do not touch the bulbs during any of this work - it can cause early failure of the bulb (due to contamination from sweat on your hands). Do not operate the HID bulb unless it is inside a housing (they can explode, spraying glass fragments all over the place). If you want to test the system first then leave the bulb inside its perspex shipping housing whilst you do so. Do not switch the HID system on-off repeatedly - allow at least a 10 second cool down before switching on again.

STP81094.jpg

A rubber cover is fitted to the rear of each headlamp – this must be cut to allow the wiring grommet to be fitted. The instructions ask for a 25mm hole, but since the grommet is only 20mm diameter I punched a 22mm hole in the centre of the cover (see picture). This allows the grommet to seal tightly. If I ever remove the kit I can plug the hole with a 22mm blind grommet.

STP81092.jpg

The bulb harness can then be passed through the hole and the grommet installed. (see picture). The blue and black flying leads with spade connectors, seen in the photo, are for connection to the Skoda headlamp plug.

STP81093.jpg

Now remove the protective packaging from the HID bulb and install it into the headlight unit and fit the new metal holder, rotating it to lock it. Note that the bulb holder only fits one way - and the bulb must be fitted with the ‘tab’ on the H7 base at the TOP of the headlamp (this is upside-down compared to the OE halogen bulb). This is quite a fiddly job due to the presence of other parts of the car right behind the headlamps – but I managed it without any additional dismantling. Be careful not to touch the bulb or knock it against the headlamp housing - treat it with great care!

With the bulb now in place you can connect the HID wiring to the existing headlamp power connector. The HID kit uses two spade terminals – the blue wire (+ve) mates to the red wire on the Skoda loom, and the black wire on the HID kit mates to the brown wire (-ve) on the Skoda.

Tuck the wires inside the back of the headlamp unit and fit the rubber cover, complete with grommet, into place.

STP81102.jpg

Now you need to mount the ballast. I chose to mount the ballasts under the slam panel. This is a clean, dry and well sheltered location away from other wiring.

I used the mounting plate as a template and drilled the slam panel with two 5mm holes for the mounting plate (picture).

STP81100.jpg

With the ballast screwed to the mounting plate, position the whole assembly under the slam panel and screw the mounting plate into position with two M5 self-tapping screws. This holds the ballast very firmly.

Finally route the wires to/from the ballast and secure neatly with a couple of cable-ties.

The end result is neat and tidy. Note that due to the angle that the photo was taken at, the ballast appears close to the top of the radiator - in fact it is several inches above the radiator and does not get warm, even after a long drive in traffic.

STP81103.jpg

Repeat the whole operation for the other side of the car, with the ballast mounted in a similar location. Allow 1.5 hours for the entire job, without rushing.

Finally switch the ignition on and power up the lights. Allow a 15minute burn in time before using them on the road for the first time. I also had an alignment done (it was spot-on).

The end result is brighter dipped and main-beam headlights with a clean beam pattern which is the same as with the OE halogens. I also find that they work well on flash and come on immediately.

I have retained the OE halogen bulbs and metal holders in a box in the glovebox. It should be possible to swap back in just a few minutes – at the side of the road if necessary.

Edited by Hauptmann
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Good effort, very similar to the Roomster one I posted about a year ago (Your photos work, unlike mine ;( ) . They work well on those headlamps too making a massive improvement on OEM.

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Instead of drilling wholes in rubber covers and in under-bonnet support, I recommend to get a set of HIDs with slim ballasts, put the whole installation right into the lamp box and secure it with small velcro pieces (there's a plenty of space if you don't have the cornering headlights). I've done it this way and it's been working flawlessly for a year now B).

Anyway, good job with the mod description :thumbup:

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Thanks for the comments.

I'm not sure that your headlights are the same as mine. I think it would be extremely difficult to get even a slim ballast inside the headlamp unit. When I took the back off I could only just get my finger between the reflector housing and the opening aperture.

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the comments.

I'm not sure that your headlights are the same as mine. I think it would be extremely difficult to get even a slim ballast inside the headlamp unit. When I took the back off I could only just get my finger between the reflector housing and the opening aperture.

The same as my 2011 Monte carlo....

Thank u for the brillitant fitting guide! :D

Is there a big difference between the OEM bulb and the hid kit?

I bought a set of 55w 8000k hid kit because i often drive at night (work situation) and cant wait to fit it!!

Edited by joten
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If I understand it correctly the 8000k will make the bulbs display a more purple/blue light than a 4300k which will show white and the 55w of power will overheat your wiring and could cause them to burn through catch fire or short out.

I havent fitted HID's if I was todo so I would be buying a 35w 4300k kit as its the closest to OEM xenon light and the clearest light on the road

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If I understand it correctly the 8000k will make the bulbs display a more purple/blue light than a 4300k which will show white and the 55w of power will overheat your wiring and could cause them to burn through catch fire or short out.

I havent fitted HID's if I was todo so I would be buying a 35w 4300k kit as its the closest to OEM xenon light and the clearest light on the road

the OEM is H7 55w, just not HID's...

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Nice guide. You're not worried about the current peaks that the ballast will produce is going to fry the controller unit? Have read that some people have had problems like that. But im sure that there are several out there with no problems at all!!

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If I were to do this, I'd go for a Philips HID kit. They're way more expensive, but that's for a reason.

Hate to spend thousands on a car, then fit £50 HIDs and have to keep my fingers crossed about wiring etc emoticon-0112-wondering.gif

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If I were to do this, I'd go for a Philips HID kit. They're way more expensive, but that's for a reason.

Hate to spend thousands on a car, then fit £50 HIDs and have to keep my fingers crossed about wiring etc emoticon-0112-wondering.gif

Hi, i had the same HID kit on my earlier car and it workd great for well over 2 years, until i sold the car! :)

Edited by joten
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If I were to do this, I'd go for a Philips HID kit. They're way more expensive, but that's for a reason.

Hate to spend thousands on a car, then fit £50 HIDs and have to keep my fingers crossed about wiring etc emoticon-0112-wondering.gif

I'm pretty sure that Philips don't make a HID kit.

I saw some on ebay a while back and they looked a bit dodgy.

I emailed Philips and asked them if they make a HID conversion kit. They said they do not not have they ever made a HID kit!

They asked me to send them the link to the kit I had seen on ebay as they said it is likely a fake.

Go with a decent place like HID's for you or HID's direct and you should be ok.

Phil

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I'm pretty sure that Philips don't make a HID kit.

I saw some on ebay a while back and they looked a bit dodgy.

I emailed Philips and asked them if they make a HID conversion kit. They said they do not not have they ever made a HID kit!

They asked me to send them the link to the kit I had seen on ebay as they said it is likely a fake.

Go with a decent place like HID's for you or HID's direct and you should be ok.

Phil

NOT TRUE.

http://www.lighting.....jsp?id=1012984

http://www.philipshi...ilips-HID-Kits/

Philips Germany don't market them, but the genuine kits are made in Aisa (for Philips) by China Philips and are easily checked on Philips website for authenticity. Australia Philips market them as well. You just need to know where to look.

Yes, there are fakes (like everything) but the genuine Philips kits are awesome quality.

There's Philips distribution and manufacture Wordwide that produce HID kits legitemately.

You can buy them in lots of places, as long as they're authenticity is checkable (14 digit serial #)

Here's the Philips China authenticity checker - http://www.authenticity.philips.com/

That's just typical of the U.K and it's 'so called' customer service. If in doubt, just make anything up emoticon-0143-smirk.gif

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Hi Briskodian. Are yoyu able to clarify before I buy?

I've a Skoda Fabia 2008 1.9 TDi Was about to order the kit you did but have this reply from HIDS Direct

Hi Dave I just spoke to someone quickly regarding this. I think this is the wrong information to be honest. I think whoever has wrote this has got it a little mixed up. Or not given the info clearly. Don’t get me wrong it could be us that have messed this up but it’s something we have never heard of before and we have upgraded a lot of fabias.

We have 2x fabias here and they both have h7 hi beam and a h7 low. Both Hi and low are separate which means to upgrade them you would need to put 2x hid kits in the car one for hi and one for lo. Alternatively yo u could put a h7 on your dipped and then use performance bulbs at approx £10.00 to upgrade the hi. These will not be as bright as HID but they will match colour wise

If you check the car yourself it will confirm this either way. To be honest its always worth checking the car anyway as sometimes you find people have upgraded headlights and such before you may have purchased the car which can alter the bulb fitting.

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just a quicky, don't know you guys are aware but as from 1st jan 2012, new rules for retro fitting hid light's, they must have self levelling sensors hooked up to the suspension and also headlight washers otherwise they will fail the mot !!!

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just a quicky, don't know you guys are aware but as from 1st jan 2012, new rules for retro fitting hid light's, they must have self levelling sensors hooked up to the suspension and also headlight washers otherwise they will fail the mot !!!

Don't know where these 'new rules' came from because that's always been the case for HID lighting and the very reason the manufacturers fitted those items in the factory for the UK.

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Don't know where these 'new rules' came from because that's always been the case for HID lighting and the very reason the manufacturers fitted those items in the factory for the UK.

yep was mandatory for manufacturers, so all will be in place, from 1/1/2012 as far as the mot rules go any HID,XENON etc. lights have to have h/light washers and suspension leveling system, otherwise it WILL fail mot test, so not relevant to manufacurers spec, cos they all have them, but relevant to retro fitting of hid's, cos if you only have hid bulbs it will fail!!!! hence why i was warning ppls!!! (this is coming from a very experienced mot tester) btw loads of new rules for the mot test "came into play" from 1/1/2012 !!!!

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yep was mandatory for manufacturers, so all will be in place, from 1/1/2012 as far as the mot rules go any HID,XENON etc. lights have to have h/light washers and suspension leveling system, otherwise it WILL fail mot test, so not relevant to manufacurers spec, cos they all have them, but relevant to retro fitting of hid's, cos if you only have hid bulbs it will fail!!!! hence why i was warning ppls!!! (this is coming from a very experienced mot tester) btw loads of new rules for the mot test "came into play" from 1/1/2012 !!!!

Tell you what though, although the MOT testers may be getting 'tough' on the fitment of HID, I wish they'd pull their fingers out of their ar$es and sort out the very basic checks.

That is the arrangement of number plate lettering. I rarely get affected by HID aftermarket lights, but there's LOADS of plates around that are clearly taking the pee. emoticon-0183-swear.gif

Be consistent or not at all.

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NOT TRUE.

http://www.lighting.....jsp?id=1012984

http://www.philipshi...ilips-HID-Kits/

Philips Germany don't market them, but the genuine kits are made in Aisa (for Philips) by China Philips and are easily checked on Philips website for authenticity. Australia Philips market them as well. You just need to know where to look.

Yes, there are fakes (like everything) but the genuine Philips kits are awesome quality.

There's Philips distribution and manufacture Wordwide that produce HID kits legitemately.

You can buy them in lots of places, as long as they're authenticity is checkable (14 digit serial #)

Here's the Philips China authenticity checker - http://www.authenticity.philips.com/

That's just typical of the U.K and it's 'so called' customer service. If in doubt, just make anything up emoticon-0143-smirk.gif

Ah cool. Learn something new every day!

That explains why they weren't listed on their uk site.

I think the ones I saw on ebay were fakes judging by their price!

Nice to know there are some good quality kits. They should last a good while so a good investment really.

Phil

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Ah cool. Learn something new every day!

That explains why they weren't listed on their uk site.

I think the ones I saw on ebay were fakes judging by their price!

Nice to know there are some good quality kits. They should last a good while so a good investment really.

Phil

Yeah, the quality is stunning :thumbup:

I'm sure the cheaper ones are nice quality though from what I've seen.

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Looking on the Official Mot Manual for information regarding HID failure :

Vehicles equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with headlamp washers and a suspension or headlamp self levelling system. Where such systems are fitted, they must work; however, it is accepted that it may not be possible to readily determine the functioning of self levelling systems. In such cases, the benefit of the doubt must be given.

You can Check this out for yourself here:

VOSA

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Tell you what though, although the MOT testers may be getting 'tough' on the fitment of HID, I wish they'd pull their fingers out of their ar$es and sort out the very basic checks.

That is the arrangement of number plate lettering. I rarely get affected by HID aftermarket lights, but there's LOADS of plates around that are clearly taking the pee. emoticon-0183-swear.gif

Be consistent or not at all.

totally agree jb, that's why i use my "discretion" if they are not quite right, but not taking "the pee" i will advise saying characters incorrect but not likely to be missread.

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