How high must a jack raise the car to get the wheels sufficiently off the ground?

Most trolley jacks seem to top out about 375 to 390 mm. Is this enough?

TP saw your picture re the wheels

Had you thought of using an ice hockey puck with a slot cut in it to put under the jacking point?

See:

http://www.ice-hockey-skates.co.uk/product_81-30-161_Ice-Hockey-Puck---Single-Rate.htm

tom

You're jacking in the wrong place.

You're jacking in the wrong place.

Where then?

Not according to the Owner's Manual Fig 187 P227

Position the lifting jack* below the jacking point and move it up until its claw is

positioned directly below the vertical web of the lower sill.

Align the lifting jack* so that its claw grasps the web of the lower sill at the height

of the marking on the plastic cover and the base plate is resting flat with its

complete surface against firm ground.

– Turn the lifting jack* up further until the wheel is just clear of the ground

I rest my case*. (*case is an optional extra - see your Dealer)

You're jacking in the wrong place.

Not according to Page 227 of the Owners Manual.

"You have to raise the vehicle with the lifting jack* in order to be able to

take off the wheel.

Position the lifting jack* by selecting the jacking point which is closest to the wheel to

be removed ⇒ fig. 187.

The jacking point is located directly below the marking on the

plastic cover of the lower sill.

– Position the lifting jack* below the jacking point and move it up until its claw is

positioned directly below the vertical web of the lower sill."

Sorry cannot seem to copy the image but TP's jack looks in the right place to me.

tom

Sorry Tom. Just 3 minutes faster than yourself. The speed typing course paid off!

You should also note:-

The following steps should be carried out before actually changing the wheel.

– If it is necessary to change a wheel, park the vehicle as far away as possible from

the traffic flow.

– Have all the occupants get out. While changing a wheel, the occupants of the

vehicle should not stand on the road.

GOOD ADVICE - or what!

Edited 15 March, 201016 yr by Terfyn

Can I hijack my own thread?

"Safety"

About 20 years ago was stuck in slow moving traffic on the A1. When we got to the cause of the hold up it was a caravan on its side. No problem except it was still connected to the car whose rear wheels were about a foot off the ground. Two old ladies were still sitting in the back !!!

tom

Hi all,

surprised by the interest in my jacking operation; any way I had a feeling with the raised sill position I might hit the limit of my ageing trolley jack, so I used a scaffolding pad to increase the starting point. I covered the steel jacking pad of the jack with a square of MDF which works a treat in protecting the car.

Didn't actually use the marked jacking points due to there proximity to drain openings which are much weaker therefore should be avoided. So I inspected the sill to find the strongest point which appeared to be at the far ends. The hanging seam on the Yeti is probably one of the more substantial ones I've come across with the exception of the drain holes.

To finish off even with the scaffold pad the jack appeared to use up quite a bit of it's travel to lift the wheels clear enough. Probably a more modern jack with a better range of travel would work without the pad but I will leave that to be answered by another forum member in time.

Regards,

TP

Remember that you are trying to lift a off road vehicle, which has slightly greater suspension travel than a normal car, so you are going to have to lift it higher to change a tyre.

And personally I would always use the recommended lifting points, even if they do appear to be near drain points, and with whatever jack I was using. They are there because the designer knows best!

Sorry double post.....stupid work system!!

Edited 15 March, 201016 yr by Llanigraham

Hi Llanigraham,

didn't get the impression that the Monster had an excessive amount of travel compared to the previous Golf 4motion, although certain components such as shocks appear from recollection anyway to be more substantial on the Yeti.

Re the jacking point yes fully agree should use the recommended point but these were as previously mentioned marked with a triangular mark on the plastic sill covers; on mine one in particular was far to close for my liking to a drain point so decided to go with my own judgement on this one.

Unfortunately they don't make cars like a Supermarine Spitfire with a defined jacking cup in the wing :S

Regards,

TP

Edited 15 March, 201016 yr by The Plumber

I don't think putting the trolley on a lump of wood is very safe; if you need extra height, put a lump of wood on the jacking arm; I do this for my Previa as I am uncomfortable with how high the jack has to go if used normally.

If there needs to be a cut-out in the wood, then make one up and keep the block somewhere safe.

I may be missing the point here but wood underneath the jack or on top of it will cause it the jack arm to lift by the same distance. Also, given TPs block paving, the jack will easily roll on the smooth wood as it lifts the SM and the jacking pad effectively moves in an arc.

As an added bonus I'm sure the protection the wood affords to the block paving helps keep Mrs TP happy too.

I may be missing the point here but wood underneath the jack or on top of it will cause it the jack arm to lift by the same distance. Also, given TPs block paving, the jack will easily roll on the smooth wood as it lifts the SM and the jacking pad effectively moves in an arc.

As an added bonus I'm sure the protection the wood affords to the block paving helps keep Mrs TP happy too.

TP

TP,

don't know about the 4Motion, but from all videos show that the Yeti has greater suspension movement than most "normal" cars.

Don't forget that what you are jacking on is one of the main structural members of the body. Often it comprises a joint of 3 sections, floor pan, inner sill and outer sill, and I bet the drain hole is in the outer sill, which isn't as strong. I know that the same applies on the Freelander.

Wood under jacks:

I used to have to do that at our old house, but then trying to jack up a Series 3 LWB Land Rover on a tarmac drive!! Got fed up of trying to explain to SWMABO why there were holes in the drive!!!

I give up with this blooking crap system at work!!

Edited 15 March, 201016 yr by Llanigraham

TP,

don't know about the 4Motion, but from all videos show that the Yeti has greater suspension movement than most "normal" cars.

Don't forget that what you are jacking on is one of the main structural members of the body. Often it comprises a joint of 3 sections, floor pan, inner sill and outer sill, and I bet the drain hole is in the outer sill, which isn't as strong. I know that the same applies on the Freelander.

Wood under jacks:

I used to have to do that at our old house, but then trying to jack up a Series 3 LWB Land Rover on a tarmac drive!! Got fed up of trying to explain to SWMABO why there were holes in the drive!!!

At least there's no problem finding a jacking point on a Series III !

That jacking point is reserved for the standard (or not...) widow-maker scissor jack.

If you're using a trolley jack with a lifting "cup", then put it in-board of the sills.

I've not seen a Yeti's sills, but I imagine they're like every other VAG vehicle in production, in which case, jacking on the sills with a trolley jack will cause damage to the sills.