Hi all,

I’ve been on this board for a few months now, and I’ve seen a few interesting posts relating to how to drive in order to minimise wear on the vehicle. I’m a new driver, so I’m a little clueless in this respect, as it’s simply not covered by the theory test or instructors – you’re told that gear = round(speed in mph / 10), and that’s about it – the first time I heard of a DMF, let alone talking about wear, etc, was on here.

So, is there anything that one should bear in mind whilst driving, in order to minimise both fuel consumption, and also wear on the vehicle?

So far, I’ve been following the bits in the Fabia’s drivers’ manual:

• Use first gear as little as possible (I’m guessing that this is to reduce fuel consumption, rather than being an issue with excessive wear)
  
• Change up into the next gear at around 2,000rpm.
  
• Start the car with the clutch depressed to save wear on the starter motor.
  
• Not put too much strain (high revs/speed/open throttle) until the engine has warmed up.
  
• Let the car idle for a moment before switching off, especially if it’s been driven quickly.
  

From reading on here, I’ve also seen that it’s a little kinder to the DMF if you switch the car off with the clutch pedal depressed (MoggyTech). I’ve also read that you shouldn’t give it “too much boot†until it hits 2,000rpm, although I’m not really sure what constitutes “too much boot†(full throttle? half-throttle?). Having said that, I generally don’t accelerate hard, and change up at around 10/15/30-35/45mph (into 2nd/3rd/4th/5th, respectively), so I don’t think that one should be a problem for me! Sometimes I will accelerate to 40mph in 3rd, or 50mph in 4th, if I need to shift a bit, or to 25mph in 2nd when going up a steep hill (if I change up earlier, it goes from sounding like James Brown to Barry White – just a bit “boomy†and unhappy, although that might be due to me changing a bit slowly), but that’s about it!

Maybe I haven’t understood it correctly, but it seems that driving close to idling (around 1,000-1,200rpm) is not particularly good for the DMF? I know that you should not accelerate when close to idling (probably in the wrong gear), but is this the case when travelling at a constant speed? I’m wondering, because large-ish chunks of my travel into work are at a constant speed around the idling rate (traffic jams at 5mph and 10mph).

Is there anything else I should bear in mind – either to reduce fuel consumption, or to help prolong the life of certain components (e.g. DMF)?

Although it’s improved a little since my last fill-up, over February I had been getting 47.3mpg (measured brim-to-brim) on my journey to/from work, which consists of 9 miles of 30mph and 40mph limits (predominantly 30mph, although you’re lucky if you can do that!), includes 3 large hills, a long slope, and a small single-width hump-back bridge (always have to stop). There are generally 2 slow-moving traffic jams, so it takes about 35-45mins. I did think that this was pretty good, until a colleague pointed out they got exactly the same fuel efficiency from their 3.0 pickup (they drive past my house, although their route was longer and included a motorway), and better from their Golf (1.9TDI, 105bhp version)…

Thanks for any input.

P.S. You can assume I know that switching anything electrical on uses extra diesel, not to “ride†the clutch pedal, and what "engine-braking" is.

What stresses the DMF is high throttle (hence high torque rise, if you see a torque curve from 1200 to 2000 rpm for this engine you'll get it) low revs acceleration. Doing what I guess you probably do in the jams and rolling along "feet off" at idle revs in first and second is fine.

Your mate seems to have a longer run at "high efficiency" revs, typically 50 to 70 mph cruising in top, where I can see 50 to 60 mpg (fill to fill, not trip computer) without taking acceleration or overtaking moves gently.

Is your colleague measuring brim-to-brim like you of using their trip computer?

Best tip I could give would be to look ahead, at what the car 5 cars up is doing rather than the one in front. Try to predict what is going to happen. As an expmple, if you see the traffic in front breaking, left off the gas. By the time the car in front of you breaks you will have opened which means 1) you've been off the gas so using less fuel and 2) you'll avoid unnessecary breaking.

Hi all,

I’ve been on this board for a few months now, and I’ve seen a few interesting posts relating to how to drive in order to minimise wear on the vehicle. I’m a new driver, so I’m a little clueless in this respect, as it’s simply not covered by the theory test or instructors – you’re told that gear = round(speed in mph / 10), and that’s about it – the first time I heard of a DMF, let alone talking about wear, etc, was on here.

So, is there anything that one should bear in mind whilst driving, in order to minimise both fuel consumption, and also wear on the vehicle?

So far, I’ve been following the bits in the Fabia’s drivers’ manual:

• Use first gear as little as possible (I’m guessing that this is to reduce fuel consumption, rather than being an issue with excessive wear) - yes
• Change up into the next gear at around 2,000rpm. - yes for fuel consumption, no for rapid acceleration, but don't boot it too hard below say 1800 RPM
• Start the car with the clutch depressed to save wear on the starter motor. - yes, but it also makes sure you are in the drivers seat
• Not put too much strain (high revs/speed/open throttle) until the engine has warmed up. - I don't give it a lung if until it's up to operating temperature
• Let the car idle for a moment before switching off, especially if it’s been driven quickly. - with a Turbo yes, but I don't if iv'e just been pootling round the town, I do if it's been on the motorway for a stint, or some high revs operation, I usually wait for a minuteish.

From reading on here, I’ve also seen that it’s a little kinder to the DMF if you switch the car off with the clutch pedal depressed (MoggyTech) - Never done that in mine. I’ve also read that you shouldn’t give it “too much boot†until it hits 2,000rpm, although I’m not really sure what constitutes “too much boot†(full throttle? half-throttle?) - I'd say full throttle or it will stress the springs in the DMF. Having said that, I generally don’t accelerate hard, and change up at around 10/15/30-35/45mph (into 2nd/3rd/4th/5th, respectively), so I don’t think that one should be a problem for me! Sometimes I will accelerate to 40mph in 3rd, or 50mph in 4th, if I need to shift a bit, or to 25mph in 2nd when going up a steep hill (if I change up earlier, it goes from sounding like James Brown to Barry White – just a bit “boomy†and unhappy, although that might be due to me changing a bit slowly), but that’s about it! - I don't use 3rd really lower than 20mph as it will labour the engine if I need to accelerate

Maybe I haven’t understood it correctly, but it seems that driving close to idling (around 1,000-1,200rpm) is not particularly good for the DMF? - I drive like that on a flat road or downhill, but I wouldn't try and accelerate before changing down first. I know that you should not accelerate when close to idling (probably in the wrong gear), but is this the case when travelling at a constant speed? I’m wondering, because large-ish chunks of my travel into work are at a constant speed around the idling rate (traffic jams at 5mph and 10mph). - I let the engine pull the car along with no throttle for some of my route as it's flat, you can get it to pull off without throttle too, but that's probably not good.

Is there anything else I should bear in mind – either to reduce fuel consumption, or to help prolong the life of certain components (e.g. DMF)?

- Fuel consumption - don't rev the balls off it

- DMF - Don't boot it in the low RPM's

Although it’s improved a little since my last fill-up, over February I had been getting 47.3mpg - about what I get (measured brim-to-brim) on my journey to/from work, which consists of 9 miles of 30mph and 40mph limits (predominantly 30mph, although you’re lucky if you can do that!), includes 3 large hills, a long slope, and a small single-width hump-back bridge (always have to stop). There are generally 2 slow-moving traffic jams, so it takes about 35-45mins. I did think that this was pretty good, until a colleague pointed out they got exactly the same fuel efficiency from their 3.0 pickup (they drive past my house, although their route was longer and included a motorway), and better from their Golf (1.9TDI, 105bhp version)…

Thanks for any input.

P.S. You can assume I know that switching anything electrical on uses extra diesel, not to “ride†the clutch pedal, and what "engine-braking" is.

I take it you have a vRS? if so, I would think that anywhere around the 50MPG is good, I'm happy with that for the performance capabilities of the car.

Shorter slower journeys will always use more fuel so I'd be happy with that. Just make sure that the engine is well serviced and the tires are fully inflated, that makes a big difference.

I get 50 MPG and that's with the fan on position 2 all the time and the air-con on when it's raining or hot.

Hope this helps some?

Ben

Edit: just seen you have a MK1 1.9

Edited 22 March, 201016 yr by Conshine

Thanks for the replies, guys - it does help (and thanks for persevering with a long thread!)

What stresses the DMF is high throttle (hence high torque rise, if you see a torque curve from 1200 to 2000 rpm for this engine you'll get it) low revs acceleration. Doing what I guess you probably do in the jams and rolling along "feet off" at idle revs in first and second is fine.

Ah, cool. (yep, that is what I'd do) I've seen the torque graphs posted here as a "before & after" for remapping - it was basically a 45-degree line, so that would make sense (even if I didn't put 2 and 2 together at the time - doh!).

Your mate seems to have a longer run at "high efficiency" revs, typically 50 to 70 mph cruising in top, where I can see 50 to 60 mpg (fill to fill, not trip computer) without taking acceleration or overtaking moves gently.

Yeah, that makes sense. I think they also have lower gears - they did say that they could do 25mph in 5th, whereas on mine I think tick-over is 35mph(?), so it almost never gets used.

Is your colleague measuring brim-to-brim like you of using their trip computer?

To be honest, I didn't think to ask. :oops: I guess it's measured, because they were quoting miles until a refill was needed...

Best tip I could give would be to look ahead, at what the car 5 cars up is doing rather than the one in front. Try to predict what is going to happen. As an example, if you see the traffic in front breaking, left off the gas. By the time the car in front of you breaks you will have opened which means 1) you've been off the gas so using less fuel and 2) you'll avoid unnecessary breaking.

Yup, already do that (except I apply the brake very lightly before I need to use it, just to flick the brake lights on, so the person behind gets the idea - some people around here, especially "tailgaters", seem to drive off your lights and not the road conditions...)

Shorter slower journeys will always use more fuel so I'd be happy with that.

Cool. Just thought I'd check as my achieved figures are not much higher than the published figures for the "urban" cycle, although it obviously contains a bit of the "extra urban" cycle, so I'd be looking at something similar to the "combined" figures. One of my friend's relatives had a VRS (well, several), and they got 62mpg (real) over the life of it, although I can't say what driving they were doing in it...

Just make sure that the engine is well serviced and the tires are fully inflated, that makes a big difference.

Yeah, I noticed a jump when I replaced the air filter (I gave it a quick go-over when I got it - didn't look like it had been replaced in a few years...).

I get 50 MPG and that's with the fan on position 2 all the time and the air-con on when it's raining or hot.

Ah, I've been going along with the lights and AC on, probably heated rear windscreen and mirrors for a bit most mornings too, so that makes my numbers feel "about right".

Hope this helps some?

Yup, thanks

Edit: just seen you have a MK1 1.9

Yeah, standard PD100 - sorry about that! I did think about putting it in, but I didn't want to make a long post longer, and hoped it was visible enough in my profile

Think i'll take this information on board

Is there anything else I should bear in mind?

Just to throw in my 2 cents worth...........considering the large amount of driving in traffic plus driving for economy that you do..........I would suggest once a week (with the engine thoroughly warmed up) you should accelerate hard through the gears (to the red-line) on a clear road.

This will have a beneficial effect by "clearing out the pipes" although I'm sure that there is a more technical explanation.

One red-line run through the gears once a week will have a neglible effect on your overall fuel consumption, but will extend the life of your exhaust system amongst other things.

It's quite fun as well!

By the way, the reason for letting the motor tick-over for a couple of minutes before switching-off after a fast run is to allow the turbo to cool down from the high revs which it has been running at, and sticking to this procedure will prolong the life of the turbo.

Switching off immediately will deprive it of oil necessary for the cooling process.

Bob.

Just to throw in my 2 cents worth...........considering the large amount of driving in traffic plus driving for economy that you do..........I would suggest once a week (with the engine thoroughly warmed up) you should accelerate hard through the gears (to the red-line) on a clear road.

This will have a beneficial effect by "clearing out the pipes" although I'm sure that there is a more technical explanation.

One red-line run through the gears once a week will have a neglible effect on your overall fuel consumption, but will extend the life of your exhaust system amongst other things.

OK, didn't know that. As you mention the exhaust system, is that to do with the cat? (kind of like the DPF regeneration cycle?)

It's quite fun as well!

Yeah, I spend a bit of time up at the local zoo, the entrance to which is a rather windy side-road (long enough to warm the engine to about 25% on the coolant gauge), ending in a semi-blind T-junction onto a 60mph single carriageway ... sometimes it's advisable to be a bit ... err ... "brisk" when exiting the side road, especially at night (10?), as people do come flying around there at 60, 70 (despite the several massive "SLOW"'s painted on the road). Whenever I go there, the direct route (probably about 2-3 miles) is so shockingly bad (road collapsing into the verge), I go the long way (about 6 miles), which is all NSL...

By the way, the reason for letting the motor tick-over for a couple of minutes before switching-off after a fast run is to allow the turbo to cool down from the high revs which it has been running at, and sticking to this procedure will prolong the life of the turbo.

Yeah, I was aware that the turbo should be allowed to spool down with the engine on to keep it lubricated all the time it was spinning. My grandfather was a mechanic (due to being in tank recovery/repair in WWII), and he had a few stories of people going on long journeys up the motorway, and then switching the engine off quickly after leaving the motorway, instead of idling it for a bit, which resulted in the engine welding itself solid (pistol rods of something welding to the inside of the cylinder). I know that was in the 50's and 60's when they didn't have turbos (or even good coolant systems, perhaps), but the point always stuck!

Hi Ben,

Sorry, I missed some of the "embedded" points you made (the forum software trimmed the quote out when I hit "reply" ) ...

Start the car with the clutch depressed to save wear on the starter motor. - yes, but it also makes sure you are in the drivers seat

Don't know what else to say!

Not put too much strain (high revs/speed/open throttle) until the engine has warmed up. - I don't give it a lung if until it's up to operating temperature

Yup. I take it "operating temperature" is the one it stabilises at (coolant temperature gauge needle pointing straight up). Sorry if that's a dumb question, I just note it takes an age to get there in cold weather, and wanted to make sure it wasn't a lower marking instead ...

Let the car idle for a moment before switching off, especially if it’s been driven quickly. - with a Turbo yes, but I don't if iv'e just been pootling round the town, I do if it's been on the motorway for a stint, or some high revs operation, I usually wait for a minuteish.

Yeah, I know you don't "need" to do it when driving normally, but I normally give it a moment anyway whilst I change my glasses, just to let thing circulate around a little ...

From reading on here, I’ve also seen that it’s a little kinder to the DMF if you switch the car off with the clutch pedal depressed (MoggyTech) - Never done that in mine

I hadn't done that either - I only read it last week, but Mr MoggyTech seems to be a knowledgeable fellow, so..!

to 25mph in 2nd when going up a steep hill (if I change up earlier, it goes from sounding like James Brown to Barry White – just a bit “boomy†and unhappy, although that might be due to me changing a bit slowly), but that’s about it! - I don't use 3rd really lower than 20mph as it will labour the engine if I need to accelerate

Yeah. In slow-moving traffic I'll change up at about 15mph, but then again, I'm normally accelerating very slowly due to the traffic, so the engine seems happy (going from 15mph to 20mph may take 200 yards). If I'm moving a bit more briskly, I normally wait until 20mph. I notice it labours going uphill at 20mph in 3rd, which is why I leave the change-up to past 25mph (being a newbie, I'm not particularly fast at changing gear - can do fast or smooth, but not both at the same time!)

Maybe I haven’t understood it correctly, but it seems that driving close to idling (around 1,000-1,200rpm) is not particularly good for the DMF? - I drive like that on a flat road or downhill, but I wouldn't try and accelerate before changing down first.

Yeah, that's basically how my "gut" would tell to drive in those conditions (although I might accelerate slowly in those conditions if it were in 2nd, because 1st doesn't "feel right")

Edited 23 March, 201016 yr by martinch

Martin:

that was in the 50's and 60's when they didn't have turbos

Or motorways (unless you lived near Preston...!)

Heh ... well, they did live "ooop north"

I can only guess at the dates (I'm sure it was some time from the late 50's to early 70's), but I definitely remember those stories...!

...... some time from the late 50's to early 70's.......

Well that certainly narrows it down a bit!