I've got a 312mm brake kit coming next week and I'm going to fit it myself. I've worked on the brakes of a Pug 306 before so I'm confident in the fitting of the brakes I just have a few questions on bleeding afterwards.

What is the accepted procedure for bleeding the brakes on a Fabia vRS?

Do I need to bleed the whole system when changing the brakes? I've read something about jamming the brake pedal down to stop fluid loss, how does this work?

I have a Gunson EZ-Bleed too.

Thanks.

no need to bleed the whole system,bleed the one farthest from the master cylinder first,just be sure to get all the air out

So if I just change the callipers over and try to loose as little fluid as possible then bleed with the EZ-Bleed it should be ok?

I've read about bleeding the ABS pump and having to use VAG-COM, I guess this doesn't apply when just changing callipers as the system won't be fully drained?

So if I just change the callipers over and try to loose as little fluid as possible then bleed with the EZ-Bleed it should be ok?

I've read about bleeding the ABS pump and having to use VAG-COM, I guess this doesn't apply when just changing callipers as the system won't be fully drained?

i've done a couple of 312 conversions and never needed vag com,what your planning to do is exactly how i did it

I changed to 312's about a month ago. As long as you swap the pipe over quickly, using a finger to cover the end of the pipe, you will have very little fluid loss. When it came to bleeding with EZ bleed, it hardly used any fluid before all the bubbles were clear. I did have a 'surely somethings wrong - that all went too easily' moment after I finished the brakes, but everything was perfect

Oh and make sure you loosen the bleed nipple before removing the caliper

Edited 28 March, 201016 yr by sleithykeithy

I changed to 312's about a month ago. As long as you swap the pipe over quickly, using a finger to cover the end of the pipe, you will have very little fluid loss. When it came to bleeding with EZ bleed, it hardly used any fluid before all the bubbles were clear. I did have a 'surely somethings wrong - that all went too easily' moment after I finished the brakes, but everything was perfect

Oh and make sure you loosen the bleed nipple before removing the caliper

Thanks seems easy enough.

What is the reason for loosening the bleed nipple before removing the calliper?

Did you have to bleed the rear brakes?

Edited 28 March, 201016 yr by Gaverick

Use a Brake Hose Clamp on the Flexi pipe.

Available from most good Motor Factors, Then you can take as long as you like

Dean

So am I right in thinking I could clamp both front flexis using 2 of those clamps, swap the callipers over, and then connect the EZ-Bleed before removing the clamps. Then when I remove the clamps all I have to do is bleed the front callipers one at a time to make sure all of the air is out?

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

So am I right in thinking I could clamp both front flexis using 2 of those clamps, swap the callipers over, and then connect the EZ-Bleed before removing the clamps. Then when I remove the clamps all I have to do is bleed the front callipers one at a time to make sure all of the air is out?

Thanks for the advice so far guys.

Yes. Clamp both flexie's Or just complete one side at a time. Release the clamp, Top up master cylinder (Level may not drop until bleed nipple is cracked) The system will not suck any air in & like you say you can connect your Ezi-Bleed which will push the fluid through, Just be carfeul as to not drop the master cylinder fluid level to far (Empty it Etc), if this happens you will have to bleed the Whole system, Instead of just the fronts .

Dean

Well you dont need a hose clamp, just depends how quickly you work I don't see the need in it personally, if you have the new caliper all bolted into place, with the old one resting just behind it with the pipe attatched, then all you are doing is swapping them over in about 30 seconds.

You use the EZ bleed after everything has been connected dude, get everything finished, and then do the bleeding last (nearside brake first, offside second).

Trust me, you want to loosen the bleed nipple on the old calipers before you unbolt them, as it is a pain in the arse if the caliper is not bolted to anything.

This guide, by our very own Lummox, should help:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/43733-312mm-brakes-pictorial/page__view__findpost__p__526975__fromsearch__1

Well you dont need a hose clamp, just depends how quickly you work

Your Right, You don't need the clamp, But if you have any issues during assembly & or Don't have much experience then it minimises fluid loss & the need to be super quick Plus who knows.... He may of painted his calipers prior to assembly & wont want Brake Fluid dripping all over

Dean

I have one of those Draper hose clamps, I assume you just place the brake hose between the two metal arms and not through the rubber grommit?

Thanks for all the help I feel comfortable doing this now.

I have one of those Draper hose clamps, I assume you just place the brake hose between the two metal arms and not through the rubber grommit?

Thanks for all the help I feel comfortable doing this now.

Yes, Slide it up as far as possible (Oh Er Missus ) & Clamp !!!

That would make your Eye's water ...

Cheers

Dean

Took delivery of the brakes today. Came painted in red with some EBC discs and pads which was a nice surprise as I ordered them off ebay so I was expecting some unheard of brands.

One question, the 7mm allen key slider, do I need to torque this up to a certain level or just do it up as tight as I can with an allen key? I have a torque wrench but it is the halfords long one so I dont know if I'd be able to access the bolts with it.

Get new copper washers before you swap the hoses over from old to new! Pennies from a motorfactors (10mm)!

Took delivery of the brakes today. Came painted in red with some EBC discs and pads which was a nice surprise as I ordered them off ebay so I was expecting some unheard of brands.

One question, the 7mm allen key slider, do I need to torque this up to a certain level or just do it up as tight as I can with an allen key? I have a torque wrench but it is the halfords long one so I dont know if I'd be able to access the bolts with it.

correct

Get new copper washers before you swap the hoses over from old to new! Pennies from a motorfactors (10mm)!

I got these washers today for the banjo bolts, do they look ok?

Edited 31 March, 201016 yr by Gaverick

Fitted the new brakes today with only a couple of issues.

The first was that the copper washers I had bought were too thick and their ID was slightly too big so they did not make a good seal and fluid was leaking out. Luckily Halfords had a box of copper washers which were the right size which I used and made a good seal once tightened to 35 nm (scary!).

The second issue was that after the brakes were fitted and bled the peddle was still soft. I tried bleeding the system about 3 times to no avail. After hours of head scratching about ABS pump bleeding and master cylinder seals I phoned Dave at PDTuning who made me realise how stupid I had been. I had fitted the callipers on the wrong sides so the bleed nipple were facing down and trapping air in the calliper Thanks to Dave for his help.

I switched the callipers over and re-bled the system and the peddle was nice and firm with no leaks. Thanks for all the advice in this thread it helped a lot, I can't wait for the pads to bed in so I can give them a proper test but they feel amazing already.

You Know, i nearly mentioned about the Bleed Nipple Pointing up ... Then thought Naa, He's done brakes before ... Easy mistake to make though ..

Good work there , & Don't they look good, Especially behinf 16" Alloys, makes them look Massive ....

Trying to find the right size of copper washers for the brake hose's can be a nightmare, Nobody stocks much of a selection anymore .. Was it a large or small Halfords ?.

Cheers.

Dean

Edited 2 April, 201016 yr by dfullb

It was a large Halfords, £8 for a box of about 100 when all I needed was 4 still it was the only place open on good friday so I just had to pay up. Hopefully it's made a good seal, couldn't see any leaks but I'm going to keep an eye on the fluid level to make sure and I'll replace with TT lines if necessary. Felt like a right wally the moment I realised they were upside down though as it's so obvious.

I've got a 312mm brake kit coming next week and I'm going to fit it myself. I've worked on the brakes of a Pug 306 before so I'm confident in the fitting of the brakes I just have a few questions on bleeding afterwards.

What is the accepted procedure for bleeding the brakes on a Fabia vRS?

Do I need to bleed the whole system when changing the brakes? I've read something about jamming the brake pedal down to stop fluid loss, how does this work?

I have a Gunson EZ-Bleed too.

Thanks.

How much did the kit cost?matt

It was £215 and included callipers & carriers painted to a colour of your choice, EBC plain vented discs and EBC Ultimax pads. Delivery was £20 which I think was very reasonable considering the weight! There is also a kit which includes the longer TT brake hoses which I think is £245.

Had a chance to properly use the brakes now after bedding in and I'm very impressed, totally transforms the car.