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Pipewerx ehausts

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Having a mk2 vrs petrol tfsi I was wondering if anyone has any experience of pipewerx systems. looking at either the full system or the turbo back hi flo cat, with the standard exhaust at the rear. Using a pipercross panel filter, would this benefit from revo stage 2 rather than stage 1?

many thanks

gary

Have a chat with HarryVRS IIRC he has a Pipewerx system on his 350bhp MKII

Have a chat with HarryVRS IIRC he has a Pipewerx system on his 350bhp MKII

i had the pipewerx.. was very well built. I have just sold mine to fikes75 on here as mine is about to sell my car. I thn mated the downpipe to a piper cat back and the sound was pretty awesome. Timmyboy on here is running the pipewerx downpipe and piper cat back, as well as muckipup who is running the pipewerx dp

made the car sound better, and yes you would benefit from revo stage 2. torque gets held for alot longer at stage 2. maing it not only faster but more progressive.

As Simon mentioned, they are well built and a great fit to the car and a Stage 2 would make the most of it. Are you fitting it yourself? If so, Hofmiester posted a very useful guide some while ago (before flogging his pipe to Simon ;) ) :

Pipewerx DP fitting guide

Just a couple of things to note:

1. As Hofmeister says in his guide, the mounting forks which mate with some rubber bushes attached to a mounting bracket underneath the car were too close together and needed bending out (kinda goes against what we said about being a good fit to the car but it was a minor point in an otherwise great zorst). Hofmeister mentions 10mm too narrow but I measured mine at 20mm. Very easy to bend out with some planks of wood but my advice would be to get Pipewerx to do it for you. I have my old stock DP in the garage and I can tell you that the centre to centre distance between the prongs is 105mm.

2. There seems to be an issue with 3" DPs on TFSI engines and the rear oxygen (lambda) sensor which causes an engine warning light for some/most. From what I can ascertain, this is particular to the bigger DPs and the standard 2.5" or other 2.75" pipes with sports cats are less likely trigger this. It means very little as the rear sensor (unlike the front one) does nothing apart from monitor the efficiency of the cat. Many tuning companies can map this out on the Stage 2 and I believe many do it as standard on their maps. I understand Revo is one of them. The interesting thing was that Hofmiester's pipe had a tube-like steel shroud on the inside of the exhaust at the rear O2 sensor which cut-off the sensor from the exhaust gases - this would definitely trigger a CEL. Hof got around this by simply drilling through it and everything was fine as I guess the flow over the shroud kidded the sensor on that the flow rate, etc. was similar to standard. My DP did not have this shroud and it seems like the absence of a drilled-out shroud changed the flow around the sensor such that I got a CEL. Don't ask me what's going on there! As mentioned, if you are going Revo I think it will not be an issue and no need to drill.

  • Author

As Simon mentioned, they are well built and a great fit to the car and a Stage 2 would make the most of it. Are you fitting it yourself? If so, Hofmiester posted a very useful guide some while ago (before flogging his pipe to Simon ;) ) :

Pipewerx DP fitting guide

Just a couple of things to note:

1. As Hofmeister says in his guide, the mounting forks which mate with some rubber bushes attached to a mounting bracket underneath the car were too close together and needed bending out (kinda goes against what we said about being a good fit to the car but it was a minor point in an otherwise great zorst). Hofmeister mentions 10mm too narrow but I measured mine at 20mm. Very easy to bend out with some planks of wood but my advice would be to get Pipewerx to do it for you. I have my old stock DP in the garage and I can tell you that the centre to centre distance between the prongs is 105mm.

2. There seems to be an issue with 3" DPs on TFSI engines and the rear oxygen (lambda) sensor which causes an engine warning light for some/most. From what I can ascertain, this is particular to the bigger DPs and the standard 2.5" or other 2.75" pipes with sports cats are less likely trigger this. It means very little as the rear sensor (unlike the front one) does nothing apart from monitor the efficiency of the cat. Many tuning companies can map this out on the Stage 2 and I believe many do it as standard on their maps. I understand Revo is one of them. The interesting thing was that Hofmiester's pipe had a tube-like steel shroud on the inside of the exhaust at the rear O2 sensor which cut-off the sensor from the exhaust gases - this would definitely trigger a CEL. Hof got around this by simply drilling through it and everything was fine as I guess the flow over the shroud kidded the sensor on that the flow rate, etc. was similar to standard. My DP did not have this shroud and it seems like the absence of a drilled-out shroud changed the flow around the sensor such that I got a CEL. Don't ask me what's going on there! As mentioned, if you are going Revo I think it will not be an issue and no need to drill.

  • Author

Thanks guys, just one more question, would it restrict the system by using the standard system after the pipewerx dp on stg 2, or would it be beneficial to go the whole hog? Only asking because I'd like to keep the car looking as standard as possible.

Cheers

Gary

Adding a rear system gives no benefit other than to make more noise, as it is nearly a 2.5" system already and reading on the APR website and a few other exhaust manufacturers. Adding an aftermarket turbo back exhaust gives minimal gains over the OE exhaust system. I am inclined to believe it as APR offer a straight through 3" system and they only saw a 20bhp increase with it. I will only go stage 2 once my OE cat gives up the ghost and needs replacing. Id rather spend my money on making it handle better etc.

you will get a gain but it would hardly be noticable maybe 1 or 2 hp. you buy the cat back par for the sound IMO.

on another note, vRScarl used to run his car on revo stage 2 with the standard downpipe and cat, but with a performance cat back. That never stopped him consistently getting 260Hp on JKMs rollers. he only fitted the downpipe in the end because the std downpie developed a leak in it.

Having a mk2 vrs petrol tfsi I was wondering if anyone has any experience of pipewerx systems. looking at either the full system or the turbo back hi flo cat, with the standard exhaust at the rear. Using a pipercross panel filter, would this benefit from revo stage 2 rather than stage 1?

many thanks

gary

I am looking at a Pipe werx DP and Sport cat, if you are interested in sorting a group buy?

As vRSy has said i have bought his Pipewerx DP, and it fits perfect, i did noticed a slight difference in power with no map on (now stage 2)and an increase in the noise department.Noise wise it is just right for me as i don't want a lot of noise inside the car and the DP on its own sounds nice and makes a few people take a second look ,yes it's a Skoda emoticon-0105-wink.gif.

Edited by fikes75

Very pleased with my downpipe. Changed from a Piper one as the CAT was shot, very good people to deal with.

Sounds a little throatier than the Piper with some lovely lift off burble if you're just revving it while stationary.

Out of interest, is the stage 2 map with the downpipe in place manageable? By that I mean, is it more progressive than a stage 1 remap in terms of power delivery? Giving some thought to jumping straight to stage 2 with a new DP, but not too sure how well the front 2 tires will respond to that much power.

From my own experience - not particularly, you need to show some caution with your right foot rather than just planting it, how you can at standard.

Jump from standard to stage 1 makes the car scrabble a bit at WOT in 2nd gear. 3rd upwards if fine.

Stage 2 onwards at WOT in 2nd gear will light up the ESP light every time, although a brand new set of Vredesteins has made mine a bit better recently - could be the warmer weather sapping some of the power though. 3rd gear will also have the light on in the wet/cold.

All good fun though, but it does make me hanker for something with similar power but 4WD like an S3, Mazda MPS etc.

From my own experience - not particularly, you need to show some caution with your right foot rather than just planting it, how you can at standard.

Jump from standard to stage 1 makes the car scrabble a bit at WOT in 2nd gear. 3rd upwards if fine.

Stage 2 onwards at WOT in 2nd gear will light up the ESP light every time, although a brand new set of Vredesteins has made mine a bit better recently - could be the warmer weather sapping some of the power though. 3rd gear will also have the light on in the wet/cold.

All good fun though, but it does make me hanker for something with similar power but 4WD like an S3, Mazda MPS etc.

That's fair enough, I'm often in 3rd gear as quick as I can. Thanks.

putting the power down in k04 stage 2+ cars isnt to hard unless you use the accelerator as an on off switch. I must admit though, i dont think i have ever redlined first gear, i always short shift and let the torque pull you up to speed

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