Hi all, I am pretty sure you have more than likely been asked a million times about this one but...

Remapping,

What do I need todo?

I have been told all I need todo is just upgrade the dump valve and to upgrade the panel filter. But then you read on here and apparently I would need to sort out the down pipe? and upgrade a few other bits.

If it is as simple as just upgrading those two bits then what are the bits I want to look at getting? I don't want to the "whoosh" dump valve so what valve do I need to look at, also where is the best place to look at getting a remap close to Dorset.

Thanks,

DBP

Skoda Octavia vRS mk1 03

Edited 16 May, 201016 yr by DBP

You don't HAVE to upgrade anything to have a generic stage 1 remap.

You should upgrade the airfilter (though depending on what you read this makes no difference) and the DV is recommended for the extra boost you will be running but a few people still run the standard DV with no problems.

Anything else you do will help with the map but you will not make more use of it until you have the map tweaked or go stage 2.

I am waiting for my decat to turn up and then I will have my map tweaked to make the most of it (and get rid of the CEL light)

Edited 16 May, 201016 yr by Bertee

Which means that what you do have to do is decide whether you'll be happy with just a generic map, or want and can afford to take matters further.

If you want and can afford to do more, work out what you want to do (zorst, hybrid turbo, FMIC, wide intake pipes, new DV, and this lot will then need bigger flow injectors) and get the other bits (even fit them except the turbo and injectors), then get the map done (allowing time for fitting turbo and injectors if applicable). However, if you're going that far, start by identifying the tuner you're going to use, and talk to them about the project (See Site Sponsors section).

Edited 18 May, 201016 yr by KenONeill

Or you can do it in stages.

I started with a generic stage 1 remap which I am still running.

I have since added an ABD CAI, Forge 007P and H&R coilovers. I have a Blueflame catback system and I am waiting for the decat pipe to turn up.

Once I have had them fitted I will be off to have the map tweaked, still cheaper than going custom and I haven't had to lay out a lot of cash in one hit (except the exhaust).

It depends on how little or how much you want to, or can afford to, do.

I can't afford to chuck huge lumps of cash at the car and I have had over a year of fun with my remap but now I would like a little more :yes:

A generic remap will make the vRS what it should have been out of the factory and will definitely put a smile on your face

Edited 17 May, 201016 yr by Bertee

Thanks for the advice. I have just been reading on oher threads and they are saying how many problems they have had with remaps. I thought they where pretty safe mod or can there be a lot more too it?

It all depends on the remap and on your car, a remap puts more stress on the various hoses and valves around the engine which can cause them to fail if the car is quite high mileage and has been kept standard for most of its life. Once you've had a remap you'll generally tend to drive the car harder so things like the clutch and brakes wear out quicker and need replacing.

The main problems that seem to crop up on here after remaps are:

1. N75 valve problems (jerkiness)

2. Coilpack / spark plug issues

3. Boost leaks from larger boost hoses (if running high boost and hoseclips are loose)

4. Vacuum leaks from smaller hoses e.g. under manifold, silicon Y pipe

5. N249 or divertor valve issues

And also the biggest problem, which often gets overlooked on here... 3 months down the line you get bored of it and want even more power!!!

It all depends on the remap and on your car, a remap puts more stress on the various hoses and valves around the engine which can cause them to fail if the car is quite high mileage and has been kept standard for most of its life. Once you've had a remap you'll generally tend to drive the car harder so things like the clutch and brakes wear out quicker and need replacing.

The main problems that seem to crop up on here after remaps are:

1. N75 valve problems (jerkiness)

2. Coilpack / spark plug issues

3. Boost leaks from larger boost hoses (if running high boost and hoseclips are loose)

4. Vacuum leaks from smaller hoses e.g. under manifold, silicon Y pipe

5. N249 or divertor valve issues

And also the biggest problem, which often gets overlooked on here... 3 months down the line you get bored of it and want even more power!!!

Your not meant to say that lol.

Well I have 136k on the clock so by the sounds of it I am basically going to fudge my car?

If the above problems went wrong how much would I be looking to fix and whats the chances of any of those problems re-occuring?

my cars done 118k ive just had a shark performance map which makes me smile every time i go out in it and my cars been fine no issues or worries what so ever

How long have you had it for? Noticed it says you have bypassed N249. What does it do? I guess not much if you can bypass it lol.

Your not meant to say that lol.

Well I have 136k on the clock so by the sounds of it I am basically going to fudge my car?

If the above problems went wrong how much would I be looking to fix and whats the chances of any of those problems re-occuring?

1. if the map is too aggresive you may suffer from this, a map that comes in smoother is better, it wont make as high BHP but will be more drivable and you will spend less time in limp mode.

2. One thing to consider after a generic or custom mapping is that the plugs are gapped for a lower level of boost. Its not the remap that kills the coilpacks but too big a gap that puts extra strain on the coilpacks. Change the gap to suit the new higher level of boost and the coilpacks with survive a good deal longer.

3. higher boost pressure doesnt cause the leak it just highlights where the weak joins are, a boost tester can be made with a Dogfood tin and a tyre valve so you can test your pipes beforehand (lots of info to be found using search )

4. the vac hose leaks are usually as a result of the age of the car and the ****ty oily fumes that they deal with, you will however be more aware of running issues post map. Again loads of info on replacing the problem pipes - Should mention that the 1 way check valves used in the vac and Crank breather system can fail and cause a boost leak.

5. The N249 can be bypassed easily and safely, most DV's (be they divertor or atmos) are controlled byintake manifold Vacuum, VW decided they wanted to use electronic control of the DV and other stuff hence all the N number valves.

When I first bought my 1.8T someone told me that I would soon know a lot more about cars, after two years of owning I have to agree. The chances are if you remap you will have little jobs to look at now and again, but it is a good learning experience and why the forum is so busy

How long have you had it for? Noticed it says you have bypassed N249. What does it do? I guess not much if you can bypass it lol.

had my map about 2 months. ive by passed both n249 and n112 just lets the dv work as it should ie mechanically not ecu controlled also found it sounds a lot better and it does run smoother

i had my map done by ben @ shark performance (shark_90) he is a top bloke, if your in any doubt or have any questions send him a pm and im sure he will be glad to answer any questions

Edited 18 May, 201016 yr by sivrs

had my map about 2 months. ive by passed both n249 and n112 just lets the dv work as it should ie mechanically not ecu controlled also found it sounds a lot better and it does run smoother

i had my map done by ben @ shark performance (shark_90) he is a top bloke, if your in any doubt or have any questions send him a pm and im sure he will be glad to answer any questions

How easy is it to by pass it yourself? Is it somethig you do as you udate the dump valve? I've looked at shark but it is about 4hours from me so I would have to go with an Revo remap since they are only up the road.

1. if the map is too aggresive you may suffer from this, a map that comes in smoother is better, it wont make as high BHP but will be more drivable and you will spend less time in limp mode.

2. One thing to consider after a generic or custom mapping is that the plugs are gapped for a lower level of boost. Its not the remap that kills the coilpacks but too big a gap that puts extra strain on the coilpacks. Change the gap to suit the new higher level of boost and the coilpacks with survive a good deal longer.

3. higher boost pressure doesnt cause the leak it just highlights where the weak joins are, a boost tester can be made with a Dogfood tin and a tyre valve so you can test your pipes beforehand (lots of info to be found using search )

4. the vac hose leaks are usually as a result of the age of the car and the ****ty oily fumes that they deal with, you will however be more aware of running issues post map. Again loads of info on replacing the problem pipes - Should mention that the 1 way check valves used in the vac and Crank breather system can fail and cause a boost leak.

5. The N249 can be bypassed easily and safely, most DV's (be they divertor or atmos) are controlled byintake manifold Vacuum, VW decided they wanted to use electronic control of the DV and other stuff hence all the N number valves.

When I first bought my 1.8T someone told me that I would soon know a lot more about cars, after two years of owning I have to agree. The chances are if you remap you will have little jobs to look at now and again, but it is a good learning experience and why the forum is so busy

So its not all going to go a once then. Thats what I would worry about. As regards to issue 2. How do you resolve this issue? Is it easy done? If I have to search it on the forums what is it I am looking for?

I went with the advise from VW Vortex and am running BKR7e plugs gapped down to .028 (I dont do metric :p) but a colder plug suits my car as it is also running LPG. I had big problems with coilpacks and after 2 sets of boltdowns started to fail I eventually found out about changing the gap down and since then I have been able to reuse some of the coilpacks that I though twere toasted.

I went with a generic map as the price was an offer at £99 postal. I have since then learned a lot about how my car works and which bits break The biggest worries relate to Turbo and clutch, but driving style will tend to have more to do with these failing as well.

How easy is it to by pass it yourself? Is it somethig you do as you udate the dump valve? I've looked at shark but it is about 4hours from me so I would have to go with an Revo remap since they are only up the road.

there are guides on here to do the by pass but it took maybe an hour for me to do the first time and i have no patience what so ever so thats good going

ben does the sts unit which is pretty straight forward to use and there is no travelling involved

I never re-gapped my spark plugs after my remap and I pulled them out the other day and they were perfect.

I haven't had to replace a coilpack in the nearly 2 years I have owned my car either

I never re-gapped my spark plugs after my remap and I pulled them out the other day and they were perfect.

I haven't had to replace a coilpack in the nearly 2 years I have owned my car either

x2

I have had a Forge i pro (O.CT) generic remap on my car for over 2 years now and it has never missed a beat or had any problems,it just goes like it should have from the factory. :yes:

i know the faster you go the more fuel you use, but after the remap do you use more petrol or is it about the same

You use more, but then I suppose that is the downside

You were saying your car had 136k on the clock, good comparison as my mate (who is also a member on here) had his remapped last Autumn with 136k on the clock, he had a £99 postal remap from More-BHP. Straight away he had a 17705 fault code which we worked out was the Split-R divertor valve, it needed to be set a bit harder as the higher boost was making it leak at part throttle. It was fine for the next 5 months then recently he was complaining that it didn't seem to pick up like it was doing with the remap and the DV was making a chattering noise so we fault code scanned it again and it now has a broken N249 valve. Both problems which I suppose are easily sorted though so if you are happy to deal with little things like that then I wouldn't worry about it.

I wish there was someone near me who could help out with the scans & little niggles. For example, if I popped to ask Mr Eyebrow for a quick scan of some codes, it'd be a 517mile round trip.

To scan codes yourself takes an eBay lead @ £10-15-ish and download 409.1 VAGCOM from Ross-Tech

You can't do a lot of adaptations and logs but you can read & clear your faults and for people helping on here it helps a lot to have codes.

I think it should be one of the first things you get following your remap

I have saved a fortune & recently sorted (I hope) a very difficult problem which I couldn't have done without the aid of VAGCOM to measure blocks & produce logs

Like Bertee says you can get code scanners quite cheap, another thing to try if there are no Skoda peeps in your area is join up on the various Seat, Audi and VW forums, a lot of them will have VAG-Com and would be happy to help out

You use more, but then I suppose that is the downside

I've heard you get better fuel consumption with a remap?