OK, So i've had the VRS for a month now and i've not really had much of a chance to drive it yet. But when i did i knew right away that it was going to need a few modifications.....so.........

Today i have bought.....

Weitec GT's

22mm Whiteline adjustable RARB

That blank plate (for the bits you rip of the engine, never got round to reading about this i just bought it)

Front upper audi S3 Strut brace

Front lower audi S3 Strut brace

Czech number plate surround

I'm waiting on a cat back exhaust from blue flame that i got via awesomes group buy (if it ever turns up). Other than that the car already has a CAI and a baily DV. Performance wise i think thats all i'm going to take it at the moment apart from getting the shark remap with the switchable maps.

So What to buy next?

I'm thinking about getting a better head unit and speakers so thats next on the cards but apart from that, have i missed anything out that is a MUST HAVE for the octy mk1??

Any advice welcome

STOO

I guess the remap would call the need for a FMIC sooner or later. Lightweight pulleys. Polyurethane bushings all round. Other mods are waaaay more expensive.

Dogbone engine mount bush

Downpipe and sports cat section for the exhaust

Front Mount Intercooler

New top mounts for when the Weitecs are fitted

Oil catch can

Copy of VAG-Com and a lead or a fault code reader / Liquid Gauge

Think about better brakes, if you can't stretch to Cupra R or Porsche/Lambo caliper conversion then at least upgrade the pads and brake fluid

Edited 9 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Will new top mounts be a must for when the weitecs are fitted? The car has only done 33k miles

I was thinking about the dogbone engine mount, I'll get one ordered up.

I'm just not too sure about going any further down the performance route as im just off the back of owning a STI9 and a 350z so whatever i do its still gonna feel slow. So i might get a sport cat and a re-map. I'm just wondering why i might have the need for a FMIC?? Is there a limit to what the WMIC can flow etc?

STOO

I defo want an oil catch tank too but cant seem to find any off the shelf other than that black american one that looks quite nice but quite pricy?

STOO

you need a tip pipe buddy i have an abd overbored one with samco tip in the for slae section makes a big difference :thumbup:

I think most of the guys on here with O.C.C.s got Sakou Michi ones in a group buy about a year ago but it sounds like there is going to be another group buy soon. Or Mocal do a catch can I think, you can get them on ebay or from Demon Tweeks.

As for the FMIC, the standard SMIC is only designed to effectively cool the boost at pressures up to 10psi (hence why the Audi S3 and Leon Cupra R have twin SMICs), if you are running a remap and other mods you will find the car may be quick from cold but on successive runs it can't cool the charge enough and loses a lot of power as a result (my mates car lost up to 20bhp when we measured it over 4 runs). There are cheap FMICs available but as yet no-one has done a RR session before and after to prove whether they are as good as the expensive Forge or ABD ones.

Edited 9 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

you need a tip pipe buddy i have an abd overbored one with samco tip in the for slae section makes a big difference :thumbup:

What is a tip pipe bud?

STOO

What is a tip pipe bud?

STOO

Turbo Inlet Pipe....The ABD/SAMCO ones let the turbo spool up loads quicker than the OEM one.

Dogbone mount will make a lot of difference and go a long way to stopping wheel hop when you rag it. It will cause extra vibration that you will feel in the car, but it wears off.

If your discs are ok, then Ferodo DS2500 pads all round with Silkolene ProRace 2000 brake fluid will make a real difference.

Edited 9 June, 201016 yr by TheMethodFeeder

Turbo Inlet Pipe....The ABD/SAMCO ones let the turbo spool up loads quicker than the OEM one.

Dogbone mount will make a lot of difference and go a long way to stopping wheel hop when you rag it. It will cause extra vibration that you will feel in the car, but it wears off.

If your discs are ok, then Ferodo DS2500 pads all round with Silkolene ProRace 2000 brake fluid will make a real difference.

OK I'll get the tip pipe and i'll go for those pads and brake fluid on your recomendation!!

Seems like the dogbone is the way forward!! Do you just need the bush and nothing else?

STOO

OK I'll get the tip pipe and i'll go for those pads and brake fluid on your recomendation!!

Seems like the dogbone is the way forward!! Do you just need the bush and nothing else?

STOO

On mine it was the Powerflex two piece one, bright yellow, well it was for a while.

ive got the powerflex dog bone bushes and they are good

also got a fabricator mate makin a catch can up tomorrow to the saikou mitchi dimensions only cheaper i will put a group buy up when he's made it and got pics up

Edited 9 June, 201016 yr by sivrs

ive got the powerflex dog bone bushes and they are good

also got a fabricator mate makin a catch can up tomorrow to the saikou mitchi dimensions only cheaper i will put a group buy up when he's made it and got pics up

Nice!! let me know how that goes

STOO

I've just bought this oil.............

Fuchs TITAN SUPERSYN 5W-40 High Performance, Fully Synthetic, Engine Oil -5 Litres

Is this any good on the VRS??

STOO

has to be vw approved - look for vw502 or vw 504 on the bottle

If your oil name is not ze list....

http://my-gti.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/volkswagen_technical_bulletin17-08-01engine_oils.pdf

Edited 12 June, 201016 yr by kenny rsell

looks like it is vw 502 approved which means its fine for annual servicing i..e 12 months or 10'00 miles - whichever comes first

Yeah I wasn't to bothered about long life oil as I only do 3k a year if I'm lucky

stoo

ARB`s?

Surly better than a catch can?

Sarah

Just been looking at the fitting guides for the S3 upper strut brace. D the front shocks have to be removed when drilling the strut tops?

Also what is the best paint etc to use to protect the drilled metalwork?

STOO

Just been looking at the fitting guides for the S3 upper strut brace. D the front shocks have to be removed when drilling the strut tops?

Also what is the best paint etc to use to protect the drilled metalwork?

STOO

it is possible to drill without removing anything which is what i did. it is a bit fiddly tightening the nuts up but you should be fine

Ok,

So the weekend i got the car polished and my 22mm adjustable whiteline ARB and weitecs and plate surrounds arrived today.....

Plates surrounds and private plates fitted (looks great)

Gonna fit the ARB tomorrow as its a quick fitment.

I'm not sure what to do about the weitecs?? I'm pretty good mechanicaly but i'm worried about fitting the coilovers, dont know why tho! I'm going to drop the fronts off to fit the strut brace anyway.....

So just to confirm before i i go ahead with whatever route i choose. Do i need to buy the top mounts? even tho the car only has 33k on the clock??

I really cant wait to get all this gear fitted, the car really needs lowered and really needs all the other stuff i have sitting fitted hahaha

STOO

Ok,

So the weekend i got the car polished and my 22mm adjustable whiteline ARB and weitecs and plate surrounds arrived today.....

Plates surrounds and private plates fitted (looks great)

Gonna fit the ARB tomorrow as its a quick fitment.

I'm not sure what to do about the weitecs?? I'm pretty good mechanicaly but i'm worried about fitting the coilovers, dont know why tho! I'm going to drop the fronts off to fit the strut brace anyway.....

So just to confirm before i i go ahead with whatever route i choose. Do i need to buy the top mounts? even tho the car only has 33k on the clock??

I really cant wait to get all this gear fitted, the car really needs lowered and really needs all the other stuff i have sitting fitted hahaha

STOO

If your not 100% sure how to fit the Weitec i would go along this route.

The rears are alot easier to fit as you won't have to split the springs/shocks like the front so you should be able to do these yourself.(Just do a search)

The fronts i would buy new mounts,bearing and nuts and get them made and fitted as this will save on labour due to them not having to split the front shocks/springs.

This way you will be sure that the fronts are spot on.

22mm whiteline arb = rubarb

Ok, fitting the ARB and weitechs this weekend. One quick question tho. ( i had a very quick search and cant find the answer)

My car has just done 30k miles and is a 05 so I have booked it into a local garage to get the timing belt done. I Know all of your guys put the metal pump in at the same time but what else do i all need?? And who is the cheapest to buy the lot from??

Thanks in advance!

Pics to follow!

STOO