Hello,

Sorry its a quick question. I see some leaking oil residue on the boost pipe before the intercooler, so with some searching; one can either get some stainless made up and change it completely or simply change current clips to jubilee clips? Im opting for the cheaper alternative atm until I find someone who can make some stainless up for me.

the standard pipe and clip fittings.. can they simply be taken apart and replaced with jubilee clips? I.e. I dont need any other silicon joins etc etc..? I've got some 40-60mm clips lying around so Im good to go.. just need confirmation I can still run the car aftewards.. :yes:

Thanks,

You can't really use jubilee clips on the standard VW type hose's, They are not a Hose over a Flange that you can use the jubilee to grip tighter. They are an aluminium flange with an o ring which fits inside another Alu or Plastic flange depending on it's location, These pipes have two raised lugs which the spring clip sits behind & stops it from pulling out. These lugs wear over time & the hose's do then pop off under boost conditions Etc. Most Vw boost hose's do show a little oil residue due to the oil mist being sucked back into the engine from the crankcase system, This then sweats through the joins & becomes visible......

If you want to use Jubilee clips properly you will have to replace the pipework ..

You can see the Two type of connectors below which fit together showing that a jubilee would be useless to aid Sealing.

Dean

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by dfullb

Thanks for the reply - what a silly design

So to actually change all the clips least time consuming method is EGR delete and stainless piping.. :|

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by JLneonhug

Thanks for the reply - what a silly design

So to actually change all the clips least time consuming method is EGR delete and stainless piping.. :|

You will still have clips @ the Turbo flange & all the joins to the lower part of the intercooler & then the two plastic intercooler connectors :(

Dean

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by dfullb

You will still have clips @ the Turbo flange & all the joins to the intercooler & then the two plastic intercooler connectors :(

Dean

I have recently removed all mine bar one ... The one the connects to the Turbo Flange but i do have a front mount & full stainless pipes with silicone hose's. i would remove the one at the Turbo but i would need to remove it & get the end machined round, bit too much hassle at the moment

Dean

Edited 11 June, 201016 yr by dfullb

I have recently removed all mine bar one ... The one the connects to the Turbo Flange but i do have a front mount & full stainless pipes with silicone hose's. i would remove the one at the Turbo but i would need to remove it & get the end machined round, bit too much hassle at the moment

Dean

Ive recwntly done the same! All the way to the turbo, the flange off the turbo seems to have a fair bit of movement in it, must be so when the engine moves under load the intercooler piping has space to move, doesnt seem to leak though

Ive recwntly done the same! All the way to the turbo, the flange off the turbo seems to have a fair bit of movement in it, must be so when the engine moves under load the intercooler piping has space to move, doesnt seem to leak though

I have done the Zip Tie securing method on this join, because as you say , there is a fair bit of movement... It's a shame you can't see all the Shiny bits down there & my contrasting Blue Silicone Hose's, Compared to the rest being Black

Cheers

Dean

OK, at castle combe my poor car was on limp mode, today I attempted the Cable tie technique to see if this qill cure the limp mode. NO idea how to do it but I put enough there to secure a house in place! lol At least it seemed to have fixed it as the loud pedal stays loud and fast. My question now is, how long will this last for? Is this "Cable tie technique" just a temporary fix?

........If I am to change all to the jubilee clips then I "may as-well" go for an FMIC to boot..! :p (NOT ideal as the hole in the wallet is very deep already! but would be a nice thought.)

Edited 12 September, 201015 yr by JLneonhug

FMIC, FMIC...................you know you want too!

glad you solved your limp mode problem from combe

GRR!! somewhere went again, limp mode.. now its making a loud roar noise whenever over 2k rpm.. :(

GRR!! somewhere went again, limp mode.. now its making a loud roar noise whenever over 2k rpm.. :(

I always seem to put mine in limp mode on tracks, I think its my down shifting and getting on the gas too early. I also have the EGR delete, silicone hosing and stainless boost pipe - it helps but its my belief that limp mode is just a trait of the vRS when driven hard?

John

I always seem to put mine in limp mode on tracks, I think its my down shifting and getting on the gas too early. I also have the EGR delete, silicone hosing and stainless boost pipe - it helps but its my belief that limp mode is just a trait of the vRS when driven hard?

John

Heat soak!!!

You need a fmic!

Follow on question, is it ok to travel at 'normal' speeds with limp mode on..? or should I be crawling at 50mph on the motorway?

Yes.. I am v tempted in FMIC now, just need to source one without modifying crash bar and getting one which doesnt get in the way of the toe hook.

Edited 16 September, 201015 yr by JLneonhug

Heat soak!!!

You need a fmic!

I know, this has to be my next mod - I like the looks of the 'Seat' ones I've seen posted up recently. I think they come in at around £500 for the total job, I'd be tempted to give it a bash myself fitting it although I never quite understand how everyone seems to cut the 'big mouth' grille so perfect, I'm bound to balls that bit up.

John

Follow on question, is it ok to travel at 'normal' speeds with limp mode on..? or should I be crawling at 50mph on the motorway?

Shouldn't do any damage however if you stop and turn the keys mine always come back to normal. Naughty I know but I wonder if it would work if you were rolling or do you need temps to come down before it will revert back?

John

I never quite understand how everyone seems to cut the 'big mouth' grille so perfect, I'm bound to balls that bit up.

Once you take the number plate holder off there is a indent surround, and you follow that with a stanley blade/saw.

Once you take the number plate holder off there is a indent surround, and you follow that with a stanley blade/saw.

Thanks man, that makes sense!

John

is there a how to for the tie wrap mod on here?

nope, but its very bodge.. basically it works like this:

you see the gap when you give the boost pipe a bit of a yank.. well..

you put 1 cable tie on the end of one connector..

one on the other connector..

and two inbetween it to zip tie them together.. does that make sense?

It works.. but dunno if its permanent..

Im currently working out how to get to the top of the IC bit..

I have just received my stainless steel pipe...

So all i do is remove the old one and insert these into the ends of the connecting pipes and jubilee the lot up????

IC top connection needs headlight out to cable tie that connection.

nope, but its very bodge.. basically it works like this:

you see the gap when you give the boost pipe a bit of a yank.. well..

you put 1 cable tie on the end of one connector..

one on the other connector..

and two inbetween it to zip tie them together.. does that make sense?

It works.. but dunno if its permanent..

Im currently working out how to get to the top of the IC bit..

Pics would help, i volunteer you to be the first to make a 'how to'

I have just received my stainless steel pipe...

So all i do is remove the old one and insert these into the ends of the connecting pipes and jubilee the lot up????

Nearlt there... you need to saw the collar off the top of the pipe from the intercooler, then insert the S/S pipe and jubilee.

Pics would help, i volunteer you to be the first to make a 'how to'

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/174479-how-to-secure-boost-pipe-connection/