A bit clueless on the subject really so i'm asking in the place where I know there is a lot of experience and knowledge floating around

What is the most cost effective way of achieving around 240 BHP from a standard VRS 180 bhp engine? I was looking at: an exhaust system (not sure whether a downpipe and sports cat or just cat-back would be needed), a FMIC, a new air intake and then a remap. Would this be anywhere near the kinda BHP I am aiming for?

Just looking for any advice really as i've only guessed what I want on my shopping list so far, so thought I would ask the experts

Thanks a lot for any advice and suggestions.

Lewis

no you wont get 240bhp with that

do a search and you will find the answers been talked about 1.7 million times

hybrid

What is the most cost effective way of achieving around 240 BHP from a standard VRS 180 bhp engine?

You wont. Buy a bigger turbo or transplant a BAM engine in and remap it.

There've been a few VRS's who have alledgedly rolling roaded at over 240bhp on here at the past but they haven't been able to repeat the feat on more than one rolling road. and they also had £1000's thrown at them... the sort of money that could've bought a hybrid turbo or engine swap.

Edited 22 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

you mite get at a stretch with a decent map 220bhp!

To answer your question on what is going to be the most cost effective route it is going to be either:

1. Buy a K04 turbo, and all the parts needed to fit it (there are a lot of parts needed just to fit it, plus the other things you'd mentioned above and a map to suit), fit it yourself

2. Buy a BAM engine and all the bits, transplant it in yourself, get it remapped and then sell your original AUQ engine to make a bit of money back

3. Get a hybrid K03S turbo and a map to suit it (£1600 if you fit it yourself or £2500 fitted and tuned, plus the cost of map, exhaust, intercooler etc on top)

Either way you look at it you'd be spending probably close to the amount the car is currently worth to get 240bhp.

Edited 22 June, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

A bit clueless on the subject really so i'm asking in the place where I know there is a lot of experience and knowledge floating around

What is the most cost effective way of achieving around 240 BHP from a standard VRS 180 bhp engine? I was looking at: an exhaust system (not sure whether a downpipe and sports cat or just cat-back would be needed), a FMIC, a new air intake and then a remap. Would this be anywhere near the kinda BHP I am aiming for?

Just looking for any advice really as i've only guessed what I want on my shopping list so far, so thought I would ask the experts

Thanks a lot for any advice and suggestions.

Lewis

Ok a few peeps have already answered you on this, which is a agreed solution to get true 240+ brake as the K04 turbo'd 1.8t engines like the Audi S3 / TT 225 and Seat Cupra R already have the bits to get you there should you wish engine swapping or turbo swapping..

I am running 226 bhp with 260 lbs of torque (it is the torque that counts) and get this figure most places now.

I have gone with remap, turbo back exhaust various other engine tweeks like CAI kit, race N75 valve etc etc, Which when added up does ammount to a large price of what the car is worth(look at my sig to see all i have done).

I still prefer the route I took above the engine/turbo swap as i did my tuning gradually when i could afford it, and also it aloud me to learn about the car as i fitted all of the bits.

I am not getting 240 bhp and probably don't won't it on a car that will need to have even more spent on it to make it brakes better and handle better.

The mods you mentioned are what most peeps have done and are worthwhile making car feel better then standard and will put a smile on your face.

my take on it anyway.

A bit clueless on the subject really so i'm asking in the place where I know there is a lot of experience and knowledge floating around

What is the most cost effective way of achieving around 240 BHP from a standard VRS 180 bhp engine? I was looking at: an exhaust system (not sure whether a downpipe and sports cat or just cat-back would be needed), a FMIC, a new air intake and then a remap. Would this be anywhere near the kinda BHP I am aiming for?

Just looking for any advice really as i've only guessed what I want on my shopping list so far, so thought I would ask the experts

Thanks a lot for any advice and suggestions.

Lewis

when you say cost effective, you need to mention your budget. in theory, 240 BHP is possible, but cheap?? hell, Badger-5 runs a Seat in excess of 500bhp at flywheel), not sure it still qualifies as 1.8T though. Would not want to be the one settling the bill though

the mods you mention would get you close to 220 real BHP, but as said before, you need to watch the torque. VW engines deliver good torque, which is also a risk for your gearbox/clutch. To get the figure you want and cost effective, buy an S3 and start again

Click on the link in my signature and see what you have to spend to get a KO3s anywhere near the true figure of 240bhp.

When on song my old Octy vRS would run a true 238bhp and 250 lb ft torque, and has run 233+bhp on numerous rollers, but never ever 240bhp.

If you want an honest opinion based on seven years of Mk1 Octy vRS ownership, dont waste your money, just set the car up properly with brakes, rear arb and suspension, you will then realise its a quick handling car, and save yourself a load of ££££££££££££££'s.

On reflection its what I should have done and saved a load of ££££, but..........................................

Click on the link in my signature and see what you have to spend to get a KO3s anywhere near the true figure of 240bhp.

When on song my old Octy vRS would run a true 238bhp and 250 lb ft torque, and has run 233+bhp on numerous rollers, but never ever 240bhp.

If you want an honest opinion based on seven years of Mk1 Octy vRS ownership, dont waste your money, just set the car up properly with brakes, rear arb and suspension, you will then realise its a quick handling car, and save yourself a load of ££££££££££££££'s.

On reflection its what I should have done and saved a load of ££££, but..........................................

Thanks for all the responses everyone.

But, coming from a clio 172 set up on coilovers, the octavia (in comparison) handles much worse than what I am used to, so I decided to get some extra BHP out of the car since with a turbo it is a lot more possible than on an N/A engine.

Think I have decided to forget the 'bhp goal' and have now just decided to get a new exhaust system, remap, and then just handling mods like you mentioned, which brings me to my last question - if I buy one of the 'downpipe and decat' packages by piper on ebay, will a catback system then fit straight onto the back of it?

Thanks for the help though everyone

Id be inclined to get a basic remap and spend the rest on handling mods if thats what youre concerned with. A basic remap brings the car alive performance wise.

I wanted to do the same thing few weeks ago but thanks to the great people here on this forum I saved a **** load of money. The 20-30 bhp are just to expensive.

With a good safe remap, exhaust, forge fmic etc you will get max 220 bhp, everything beyond that you will need bigger turbo, bigger injectors and etc.. but then you will need to upgrade the gearbox, clutch, breaks etc..

Simple remap will put a smile on your face....

Edited 29 June, 201016 yr by Gonzaga

Thanks for all the responses everyone.

But, coming from a clio 172 set up on coilovers, the octavia (in comparison) handles much worse than what I am used to, so I decided to get some extra BHP out of the car since with a turbo it is a lot more possible than on an N/A engine.

Think I have decided to forget the 'bhp goal' and have now just decided to get a new exhaust system, remap, and then just handling mods like you mentioned, which brings me to my last question - if I buy one of the 'downpipe and decat' packages by piper on ebay, will a catback system then fit straight onto the back of it?

Thanks for the help though everyone

the clito is a nibble thing, very chuckable. downpipe might be a fiddle and some have reported the screws brake off. cat-back should fit straight on. (well I suppose, milltek is anyway)