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Engine Management Light ON, Rough Idle and Stalls

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Hey Y'all,

I'm new here so please be patient. My daughters 2002 Fabia Classic 1.4 MPI 8V AQW has what alot of people have said they have had problems with. Namely the EML is on and it has a rough idle and stalls intermittently. Sometimes when changing gears or coasting and usually when engine is warm. The light started by going on and off intermittently a couple of months ago but is now permanently on. I have gone through the forum and spotted the MAP sensor as the likely culprit so bought a cheap one (£20) off Ebay and installed it but this did not do the trick as the light is still on even after leaving the battery disconnected for an hour after the install. The throttle body is nice and clean and appears responsive. The temperature gauge seems to work fine also so I do not think it is the throttle body or coolant temp sensor. It may be that the cheap part I got is not up to the job but to be sure I guess I need to get a Vag-Com reading. Does anybody know a place near Uckfield East Sussex that could do the diagnostices for me? Any advice greatfullly accepted.

PS I just read another post about the timing chain that caused an idle issue for another member. I just noticed today that mine is rattling and so this might be the issue??? Could someone also confirm that whenever the EML is on this means that the ECU has gone into safe mode.

Thanx in advance,

Daz.

Edited by Dazman99

All guesswork without a code scan I'm afraid. If the EML is on, there will be fault codes logged.

check EGR butterfly may be seized up or it may be clogged up

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Y'all,

I'm new here so please be patient. My daughters 2002 Fabia Classic 1.4 MPI 8V AQW has what alot of people have said they have had problems with. Namely the EML is on and it has a rough idle and stalls intermittently. Sometimes when changing gears or coasting and usually when engine is warm. The light started by going on and off intermittently a couple of months ago but is now permanently on. I have gone through the forum and spotted the MAP sensor as the likely culprit so bought a cheap one (£20) off Ebay and installed it but this did not do the trick as the light is still on even after leaving the battery disconnected for an hour after the install. The throttle body is nice and clean and appears responsive. The temperature gauge seems to work fine also so I do not think it is the throttle body or coolant temp sensor. It may be that the cheap part I got is not up to the job but to be sure I guess I need to get a Vag-Com reading. Does anybody know a place near Uckfield East Sussex that could do the diagnostices for me? Any advice greatfullly accepted.

PS I just read another post about the timing chain that caused an idle issue for another member. I just noticed today that mine is rattling and so this might be the issue??? Could someone also confirm that whenever the EML is on this means that the ECU has gone into safe mode.

Thanx in advance,

Daz.

Hi there

I have a very similar problem to you. Same 1.4 MPI 8V. My idle is ok, but I stall intermittently, also usually coasting, but sometimes it is effectively stalling while I'm driving, but as I'm in gear it just fires straight

back up. Also, when my engine is warm it becomes really really sluggish. I've cleaned the throttle body out, no change. I've had diagnostics up and both errors were not condusive to the problems I'm having. The mechanic I use is mustard, he worked for Skoda for some time, and he's a genuine fella, but he doesn't know what to do. I also have a rattly chain, and he said a stab in the dark might be to change that, but he doesn't feel 100% on that at all.

Have you had any luck finding the cause???

  • 3 years later...

Does anyone have an answer for this? My coolant light used to come on all the time and my 1.4 mpi would idle badly and stall. I replaced the rocker head cover and gasket as there was some leakage and cleaned the throttle body, This seems to have sorted the coolant light and stalling but the idle is still loud and rattly and the EML comes on rarely. I am looking for a replacement chain and sprocket as I've done 120k and no full service history so I think it's worth a shot.

Has anyone found a solution to this problem yet?

start the car

open the bonnet

remove engine cover if fitted

with a can of VAG flame retardant spray blast around the inlet manifold where it is bolted to the head

 

If the engine stalls or coughs and splutters when doing so change the inlet manifold gaskets

 

It makes a hell of a difference

Does anyone have an answer for this? My coolant light used to come on all the time and my 1.4 mpi would idle badly and stall. I replaced the rocker head cover and gasket as there was some leakage and cleaned the throttle body, This seems to have sorted the coolant light and stalling but the idle is still loud and rattly and the EML comes on rarely. I am looking for a replacement chain and sprocket as I've done 120k and no full service history so I think it's worth a shot.

Has anyone found a solution to this problem yet?

 

 

The idle is loud and rattly because the timing chain is stretched. Mine's only done 60,000 and the chain rattles like mad at idle. At 120,000 it will be well shot. They do not have a tensioner so the stretched chain just thrashes about.

Does anyone have an answer for this? My coolant light used to come on all the time and my 1.4 mpi would idle badly and stall. I replaced the rocker head cover and gasket as there was some leakage and cleaned the throttle body, This seems to have sorted the coolant light and stalling but the idle is still loud and rattly and the EML comes on rarely. I am looking for a replacement chain and sprocket as I've done 120k and no full service history so I think it's worth a shot.

Has anyone found a solution to this problem yet?

As above a generic vcds lite lead is £6, if you have access to a laptop or windows based netbook then this is the best option to read your codes. The chain interval is 120k but as above you change it when the noise gets silly, at almost 60k (2k services the first 12 years of its life then 10k from 24k) my chain sounds fine so I suspect it's good 120k may be reasonable if it's got regular oil changes every 10k/12 months, the kit isn't that expensive and the job is apparently quite straight forward.

The coolant light isn't going to be related to the rocker cover gasket failing though replacing it stops oil seeping down the block as you've found, it's either the coolant level is low, the sensor is knackered (known issue £12 from dealer for a new tank and sensor) or the temp is too high for some other reason. Cleaning the throttle body probably did help with the stalling though. When was it last serviced and the air filter/plugs done? I suspect the chain is the cause but if not then air feed/plugs/coil pack possibly but without a vcds scan it could be all sorts of things.

Edited by Avalon

  • 4 weeks later...

I too have an 02 plate fabia, 1.4 AQW engine with this same fault. Tried a new vag map sensor, no change, new thermostat fitted last year. And am currently trying a new ecu from another car of the same spec.

Fed up of driving round with fault lights on my dash, and random stalls. The fault codes say brake light switch, but I have fitted a new vag switch, it has two other codes but I can't remember their designation right now. I appreciate that it's an old car, but am getting fed up of having orange lights in my vision now. Any tips would be gratefully received considering as I have fitted a new clutch a month back. :-/

I too have an 02 plate fabia, 1.4 AQW engine with this same fault. Tried a new vag map sensor, no change, new thermostat fitted last year. And am currently trying a new ecu from another car of the same spec.

Fed up of driving round with fault lights on my dash, and random stalls. The fault codes say brake light switch, but I have fitted a new vag switch, it has two other codes but I can't remember their designation right now. I appreciate that it's an old car, but am getting fed up of having orange lights in my vision now. Any tips would be gratefully received considering as I have fitted a new clutch a month back. :-/

 

Do the basics first, fault finding is a methodical process. Read the codes, note them down so you don't forget them, then test whatever is logged working backwards. How old/how many miles has the car done, has it been well serviced every 10k/12 months? When were the air filter/plugs last changed, has the coil pack been tested? Yes the timing could be an issue but unless it's stupidly loud, you're getting somewhere near the 120k interval or the history is poor i'd look elsewhere first.

 

For example I noticed that despite the original Champion (Skoda branded) plugs being spec'd for 40k the Bosch plugs I put in last time are noted as 25k for this car on ECP.

  • 7 years later...

My mate had same problem he Changed spark plugs and coil pack problem sorted

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