Got a mk1 vRS hatch (52 reg).

Fitted new rear pads to it today and its now not got a brake pedal - i've tried bleeding them as well and there is definitely no air in the braking system at all.

Any ideas? I'm scratching my head!

Got a mk1 vRS hatch (52 reg).

Fitted new rear pads to it today and its now not got a brake pedal - i've tried bleeding them as well and there is definitely no air in the braking system at all.

Any ideas? I'm scratching my head!

Hi mate

Does the hand brake work OK ???? if it does'nt then one or both of the pistons is not auto adjusting and taking up the free play.

Did any fluid leak out when you changed the pads ???? If it did then you prob will have got air in the system, and in which case you will need an hydraulic brake bleed kit to bleed them.

HTH

Bill.

Master cylinder failed? Rewinding with a closed reservoir cap or something like that? Excessive pressure via a pressure bleeder or pushing foot right to the floor during bleeding?

Doesn't sound too good :-( Not just something simple like a bleed screws open or a union's been stressed / stretched and there brake fluid puddles on the ground?

EDIT: Beaten to it

Edited 15 July, 201015 yr by Mute

Did you wind them back or did you just crush the piston back?

sorry, should've mentioned that i took the calipers off and wound them back in.

The brakes work but theres just no pedal feel.

Did you use a pressure bleeder?

No I didnt. Im guessing that what I'm going to need.

AFAIK you can't just pump and hold on these and you may have damaged the master cylinder.

Common problem. It'll probably be the master cylinder seals.

When you push the pedal all the way to the floor while bleeding, the piston passes into a normally unswept area, this change in surface finish can cause the seals to invert. Hence why people use pressure bleeding kits to avoid touching the pedal.

Looks like you may have learnt the hard way!

You can pick up a new MC for around £85, so it's not the end of the world.

but first..... before you rush out and buy one... have you bled the mastyer cyl via the 2 ,7mm bleed screws that are on it (hard to see sometimes)

once the m'c gets air in it the only way to get it out it thru those you wont pump it thru

once you have done that then let some more fluid run thru the whole system and bleed front and rear..

i always bleed by gravity and never pump the pedal just open the bleeders one at a time and have a quick cuppa

Whats a hydraulic brake bleeder look like? I've seen the ones with an air line attached.

but first..... before you rush out and buy one... have you bled the mastyer cyl via the 2 ,7mm bleed screws that are on it (hard to see sometimes)

once the m'c gets air in it the only way to get it out it thru those you wont pump it thru

once you have done that then let some more fluid run thru the whole system and bleed front and rear..

i always bleed by gravity and never pump the pedal just open the bleeders one at a time and have a quick cuppa

Thanks for the heads up, I'll give it a whirl as hadnt noticed those screws.

Is it best to gravity feed the m'c, and how long roughly should i let that and the calipers bleed for?

Thanks

Edited 15 July, 201015 yr by urbanfox

Whats a hydraulic brake bleeder look like? I've seen the ones with an air line attached.

This is what I use: http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=674&item=1818

Cheers Bodge!

Thanks for the replies guys!

bleeding the m'c has cured the problem! Thanks to felicia16v for the help and advice, its really appreciated

but first..... before you rush out and buy one... have you bled the mastyer cyl via the 2 ,7mm bleed screws that are on it (hard to see sometimes)

Has anyone got a pic of the location of these?

TIA

Saved you a few shekels there

Has anyone got a pic of the location of these?

TIA

sorry no pics but if you look down at the mastercylinder they are on the side of it that is closest to the engine, usually have a black rubber cap on each one, you will need a 7mm spanner of socket to turn them (dont over tighten either as they are into the alloy cyl)

sorry no pics but if you look down at the mastercylinder they are on the side of it that is closest to the engine, usually have a black rubber cap on each one, you will need a 7mm spanner of socket to turn them (dont over tighten either as they are into the alloy cyl)

Thanks.