Hi everyone I went to view 2 mk1 octi VRS's yesterday. One had 140,000 miles on the clock but ran absolutely perfect. the other had half the mileage but was clearly owned by a drug dealer type that didn't care about the car.. all very sketchy. It was all typical "nahh what it is yea" "service history lost in a house move" im sure you've heard them all before all that and also with all the warning lights going mad and everything. very tatty, and very unimpressed.

I have read the buyers guide (amazingly helpful) however still have some questions;

1) Will remapping the car still retain VAG like reliability, 180bhp is more than enough for me, however i'd prefer much more torque and +200 bhp sleeper aspect, Do you need to look at uprating the clutch or will it cope with a bog standard 'stage 1' re-map?

2) How on earth should these 20VT engines sound? The first one I went to see with high mileage sounded sweet however was sounding a bit tappy from the lower cambelt area, possibly a tensioner/roller? the other had a very suspect squeal, now I have read about the air pump (iirc) causing a bit of a squeak/high pitched noise until engine is warm.. this was doing it even when it was warm. I tried to view the 'how the engine should sound' or something along those lines thread but the link didn't work, it would be a real help if anyone could post a video or something, if possible of how a healthy engine should sound as both sounded rather different

3) how often is the cambelt needed to be changed? I've read on here 60k then 30k after, can this be confirmed for someone?

4)Performance wise are all the octavia VRS's 180bhp? I've read something about 150bhp..

5) Are DV's hard to fit? Can someone recommend an induction kit/panel filter as the car needs to be modified for me to insure it

Edited 18 July, 201015 yr by Lew_VRS

Hi everyone I went to view 2 mk1 octi VRS's yesterday. One had 140,000 miles on the clock but ran absolutely perfect. the other had half the mileage but was clearly owned by a drug dealer type that didn't care about the car.. all very sketchy. It was all typical "nahh what it is yea" "service history lost in a house move" im sure you've heard them all before all that and also with all the warning lights going mad and everything. very tatty, and very unimpressed.

I have read the buyers guide (amazingly helpful) however still have some questions;

1) Will remapping the car still retain VAG like reliability, 180bhp is more than enough for me, however i'd prefer much more torque and +200 bhp sleeper aspect, Do you need to look at uprating the clutch or will it cope with a bog standard 'stage 1' re-map?

2) How on earth should these 20VT engines sound? The first one I went to see with high mileage sounded sweet however was sounding a bit tappy from the lower cambelt area, possibly a tensioner/roller? the other had a very suspect squeal, now I have read about the air pump (iirc) causing a bit of a squeak/high pitched noise until engine is warm.. this was doing it even when it was warm. I tried to view the 'how the engine should sound' or something along those lines thread but the link didn't work, it would be a real help if anyone could post a video or something, if possible of how a healthy engine should sound as both sounded rather different

3) how often is the cambelt needed to be changed? I've read on here 60k then 30k after, can this be confirmed for someone?

4)Performance wise are all the octavia VRS's 180bhp? I've read something about 150bhp..

5) Are DV's hard to fit? Can someone recommend an induction kit/panel filter as the car needs to be modified for me to insure it

1. Use the search there is lots about mapping. From my searches if you have a stage 1 map for example it should be fine as its only a small power rise.

2. Not sure weather there is a perfect sound, most engines sound a bit tappy when first run but this should stop after a few minutes.

3. 4 years or 50k which ever comes first.

4. vRS are 180. Normal 1.8t are 150.

5. Easy peasy lemon squeezy if you get the correct one. Looks like most go for the 007P

1. Use the search there is lots about mapping. From my searches if you have a stage 1 map for example it should be fine as its only a small power rise.

2. Not sure weather there is a perfect sound, most engines sound a bit tappy when first run but this should stop after a few minutes.

3. 4 years or 50k which ever comes first.

4. vRS are 180. Normal 1.8t are 150.

5. Easy peasy lemon squeezy if you get the correct one. Looks like most go for the 007P

Many thanks for your help!

I've had a little look about the maps is there any mappers people swear by as the best for the 20VT engines or all they all pretty generic?

The only car i have had with a map had a Revo map with a stage one tuning box. Its was very good but you can get cheaper ones.

The only car i have had with a map had a Revo map with a stage one tuning box. Its was very good but you can get cheaper ones.

thanks mate, that REVO seem to be the one though..

1. Standard clutch is fine for stage 1 map but consider spending the money on improving the handling and braking first, the car will be twice as fast through corners. Then get a map.

2. There should be some tapping from the fuel injectors and you will also hear some tapping from the charcoal canister near the washer fluid bottle. The AUQ version of the 1.8T engine sounds louder on a cold start because the variable valve timing and secondary air pump system is working to warm the cat up.

3. Cambelt and water pump are 4 years or 60k

4. VRS and WRC Edition 180bhp you can get a 4x4 turbo and the fwd 1.8T both 150bhp. Providing the 150bhp ones are post-2000 they should have the same K03S turbo as a VRS so will remap to approx the same as a VRS will.

5. Dump valves very easy to fit. Either stick with a standard panel filter and de-restrict the air box or other panel filters are K&N, Green and Pipercross

You can get generic remaps from pretty much anyone but the better remaps are custom ones which you get if you've already done other bits to the car (exhaust etc.).

Popular ones used to be Custom Code, Jabba, Revo, Impossible Performance, APR (via Awesome GTI)

These days people seem to be going for Shark Performance and RSTuning mainly

Edited 18 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

1. Standard clutch is fine for stage 1 map but consider spending the money on improving the handling and braking first, the car will be twice as fast through corners. Then get a map.

2. There should be some tapping from the fuel injectors and you will also hear some tapping from the charcoal canister near the washer fluid bottle. The AUQ version of the 1.8T engine sounds louder on a cold start because the variable valve timing and secondary air pump system is working to warm the cat up.

3. Cambelt and water pump are 4 years or 60k

4. VRS and WRC Edition 180bhp you can get a 4x4 turbo and the fwd 1.8T both 150bhp. Providing the 150bhp ones are post-2000 they should have the same K03S turbo as a VRS so will remap to approx the same as a VRS will.

5. Dump valves very easy to fit. Either stick with a standard panel filter and de-restrict the air box or other panel filters are K&N, Green and Pipercross

You can get generic remaps from pretty much anyone but the better remaps are custom ones which you get if you've already done other bits to the car (exhaust etc.).

Popular ones used to be Custom Code, Jabba, Revo, Impossible Performance, APR (via Awesome GTI)

These days people seem to be going for Shark Performance and RSTuning mainly

Brilliant mate, exactly what i wanted to know!

yeah I seen that shark performance, seems very good and reasonably priced too, don't think id need a custom jobbie im not that performance focused. I don't tend to drive quickly through corners however i've heard good things about up-rating ARB's as the original ones have been known to just be able to slide the bushes side to side :(

mine is for sale only thing is was stolen recovred in the first 3 month of its life is very good con though message me for the link

loads of reciepts needs nothing

Edited 20 July, 201015 yr by jacko rs

mine is for sale only thing is was stolen recovred in the first 3 month of its life is very good con though message me for the link

loads of reciepts needs nothing

hi mate!

sorry ive already put cash on one, tbh stolen recovered puts me right off as selling on could be a barstud

which part of the air box should u de-restrict and is there a decent how to on line? sorry for the thread hijack.

Take the top of the air box off and if you look at the inside it is full of ridges, cut all these off with a dremmel and smooth down with sandpaper. Job done

I cheated and bought mine off of another member

Take the top of the air box off and if you look at the inside it is full of ridges, cut all these off with a dremmel and smooth down with sandpaper. Job done

I cheated and bought mine off of another member

make much of a difference at all?

Found a thread about it

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/150454-de-finning-airbox/page__view__findpost__p__1874058

Not sure if it makes any difference to figures but it sounds a bit louder. Although I did change to a Green panel filter when I fitted the box so no idea if thats the filter or the box!

Found a thread about it

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/150454-de-finning-airbox/page__view__findpost__p__1874058

Not sure if it makes any difference to figures but it sounds a bit louder. Although I did change to a Green panel filter when I fitted the box so no idea if thats the filter or the box!

looks like its also a good idea to enlarge the intake to the airbox its self.

looks like its also a good idea to enlarge the intake to the airbox its self.

Yep, you can fit an R32 one which is wider than the standard VRS one.

is there a common fault with the cd players as this one says lens fault or something the guy says he sent it to skoda and they said just needs to clean the lens? if its a big problem i have a spare CD player which is a single DIN but could someone tell me where I can buy a fascia plate for an early octy VRS as all i can seem to find are november 2004 onwards? mine is an early 2004 on a 53 plate

Edited 21 July, 201015 yr by Lew_VRS

Sometimes the changer can get dust in it, it just needs a blow-out with some air and a run with a lens cleaning CD.

Failing that you can fit an aftermarket head unit that plays CDs, I'm sure someone like Autoleads do a single DIN fascia fitting kit for the Mk1 Octys, would have thought a single DIN kit for a VW Golf, Audi A3 or Seat Leon would fit too.

Sometimes the changer can get dust in it, it just needs a blow-out with some air and a run with a lens cleaning CD.

Failing that you can fit an aftermarket head unit that plays CDs, I'm sure someone like Autoleads do a single DIN fascia fitting kit for the Mk1 Octys, would have thought a single DIN kit for a VW Golf, Audi A3 or Seat Leon would fit too.

okay brilliant mate, didnt think the guy was lying but werent sure. i had a look but all i could find were post 2004 facsias :(

Thinking about it maybe you don't need a Fascia fitting kit, most aftermarket stereos come with the thin metal cage, the hole is single DIN already so you just fit the cage into the hole and use the black plastic trim around the front of the stereo that also comes with the head unit.

I was out in another members VRS last night with an Alpine H/U fitted in a single DIN slot.

Thinking about it maybe you don't need a Fascia fitting kit, most aftermarket stereos come with the thin metal cage, the hole is single DIN already so you just fit the cage into the hole and use the black plastic trim around the front of the stereo that also comes with the head unit.

I was out in another members VRS last night with an Alpine H/U fitted in a single DIN slot.

id give you a big kiss if i could lol