Well, can't you tell I'm on ADSL now?! I said I took a few piccies of my driver's door padding out, so here they all are, and I've attempted a small commentary above each one. So, here goes.

door card as it was before I started: NB: huge crossovers have to sit in door pocket and are wired through it to the inside... Bit of a pain for door card removal as it has to sort of remain attached by these wires.

Mirror twiddly button out and disconnected, same with leccy window switch unit, and handle removed, which just slides out to the left once the left hand bit of handle containing the switch flips out. Note three large screws, one hanging on to the screwdriver. There is also a sneaky torx 15 just behind the door handle (can see the gap, yeah?)

Me starting to tease off the door card from the bottom right. Tug, POP! POP! BANG! Don't be afraid by the noises, just keeping pulling it.

Et voila, a bare door. Note custom speaker mount done by Joel, and custom wiring as well needed. At this point I also disconnected the wires going to the door knob flasher oo-err, and the red door light at the bottom right.

This was the materials I used, vinyl tile insulation, damp proof lining, not that that was needed really - that little roll there weighed about 25kgs, so its not light stuff - I hope thats good for sound deadening at least! Stanley knife for cutting, double sided tape for attaching.

The first of the tape goes on. Allow to stick and remove backing, which allows my first strip of insulation to go on.

This strip is designed to cushion the harsh meeting point of the door card and the metal of the door, (note position of popper holes just to the left)

This bit then went across the top, and sort of hung down for future tacking.

This chunky bit I put here to go the other side of the poppers. Note having to be careful not to block up future screw holes, mechanisms, etc. Whilst doing this its good to keep the wiring (such as the one shown here) trapped the correct side of the insulation to prevent accidental burying. The door knob proved handy for this little purpose. (the blue thing is my 12v inspection light cage, don't worry about that )

Ahem, this piccie needed turning 90 degrees and I forgot... but if you tilt your head on your left shoulder, you can tell this is the next bit to the left of the one above. And this one needed holes cutting out for the door handle screws (the ones shown up above hanging off my screwdriver)

Now this bit I wasn't sure would work, but I think it should. basically its a square bit tacked down over the speaker grille, and I've chopped out a hole in it the same size (roughly ) as the woofer. Hoping to stop vibrations as much as possible with this bit.

So, using some of the tape to join bits togther, as well as underneath in double sided form, I sort of finished with my door looking like this, something out of space odyssey 2001 methinks. No wiring buried, no popper / screw holes covered and hopefully once the speakers in the front are being powered again, smooth music, with no reverberating vibrations.

The final job was obviously the refitting, and to my surprise it all went well with all electrics being put back right, and the door card snugly fitting back, with some "persuasion" over the insulation. Phew* Its 1am and I'm off to sleep!

why are you sticking tin foil to your doors?

Must be scared of aliens

Think it's to prevent vibrations in the door (likes his bass )

It is to prevent vibrations, from those rather sweet 90w RMS woofers sticking out my "tin foil" in the penultimate piccie. :speaker:

Out of curiosity, didn't you fit any to the outer door skin? I know access is poor but this is where you want it to remove the most road noise, I thought... I know when I last did this sort of job I did inner and outer skins and it made a lot of difference... Just got to make sure the material you use on the outer skin isn't water absorbent (sounds obvious, but sound-deadening felt has this warning on the packaging to make it muppet-proof) or you could be facing nasty tinworm...

It was more to prevent door card vibration for me - I was getting awful resonating vibrations when the front woofers were giving it beans, so simply tried to lather every point of contact between two solid materials with the insulation, i.e door card ends, around the grill on the card, etc. I don't think I'll ever make much dent on road noise, as long as the accoustics improves, I'll be happy.

I'm thinking when I do this, I'll use flashing tape on as much of the outer skin as I can reach, and a combination of flashing strip and felt on the inner skin and door card, along with silicone or plumber's mait on all of the plastic trim that may cause vibration once the apine deck and new speakers are in there...

I'm stripping the carriers out on mine and dynamatting the inside of the door skins.

Hope your window motor dont overheat Jason..lol

Holidaying in Chernobyl next year Jason?