What's the difference between the 90 and 110 models? Not 20HP. What do they change to get the extra 20 HP?

turbo(later 90 has same as 110), the injection pump, the injector nozzels and the ecu.. oh and the 110 gets disc brakes on the back instead of crappy drums

110 has a turbo which gets gummed up :'( [there again some 90s have a VVT too]

110 has a turbo which gets gummed up :'( [there again some 90s have a VVT too]

only up to 2000, then the 90 gets the same VNT turbo

anyway if you drive em properly they dont ever gum up, needs regular excersise lol

110 has a turbo which gets gummed up :'( [there again some 90s have a VVT too]

Stick to, or go early on the service intervals and only use fully synthetic oil should prevent this. I had an original turbo replaced last October at 297,000 miles

Mine gets exercised every day I drive it, but it still gets stuck :-( I am on LL servicing though, running with the appropriate vag spec oil.

The harder I drive mine, the more oil it uses... :-(

Mine gets exercised every day I drive it, but it still gets stuck :-( I am on LL servicing though, running with the appropriate vag spec oil.

The harder I drive mine, the more oil it uses... :-(

i would get it onto 10K servicing mate. you may find your turbo has the rust problem inside the vnt mech. out of the last 12 i have fixed 9 of them were sticking from rust and 3 were sooted up..

really shouldn't use any oil how many miles has it done as they seem to use a bit till 50K then settle down

my tdi is on 190K now and uses none in 6K (but i change it at 6K too)

IIRC, if he was on fixed servicing Matt would need to change the oil about every 10 weeks!

Incidentally, I've got a theory that engines that are on variable service tend to use more oil than those on fixed, particularly if they were driven gently for the first 30k or so. Does your experience back that up at all?

Ken , yes i would go with that, the ones that have had an "easy" first 30-40K do seem to burn more oil than those that were run in a bit harder, also the long life oil does seem to burn off quite quickly after 20K

I dunno if mine had an easy life to start it, when I bought it had lease plates on, so I suspect it had a hard life!

Mine seems to want a top up just before it is due a change (inconsiderate thing!). I generally change my oil about once a year, which is plenty enough for me - taking the tray off underneath is a PITA.

lol just buy a pela oil removal sucker outy thing, tis easy then

http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/default.aspx?a10page=pl6000

great bit of kit and the tdi's are designed to be done this way, thats why they have the top filter and large dipstick tube

Edited 22 July, 201015 yr by felicia16v

lol just buy a pela oil removal sucker outy thing, tis easy then

http://www.pelapumps.co.uk/default.aspx?a10page=pl6000

great bit of kit and the tdi's are designed to be done this way, thats why they have the top filter and large dipstick tube

Have heard these don't get all the crud out of the bottom of the sump and seems to be better the traditional way. Good idea about the filter though.

but if you have anything in the sump thats too big to go up the 3mm pipe then i would think changing the oil is not going to improve things anyway :no: all the times i have tested the one we use i find that i can just about get 10-15ml out the sump plug once the pela cant suck any more...

but it can suck the residual oil from the filter housing instead so gets more out really.

cant say i've seem lumpy oil since we stopped doing fords

I guess I could could do every other change with the pela pump.....

Just awaiting my filters to arrive from Eurocar parts. PartCo wanted about 50% more and the dealer pricing was double! (oil, fuel, air & pollen filters)

Edited 22 July, 201015 yr by mbames

Holy thread resurection Batman!! (this just suddenly surfaced in "subscribed threads")

IME most dipstick tubes are 3 to 5 mm ID. The issue with pumps is that they can leave as much as half a litre of oil in the sump that a proper drain gets out!

i change the oil and filter every 6 to 8 k on my vrs

Holy thread resurection Batman!! (this just suddenly surfaced in "subscribed threads")

IME most dipstick tubes are 3 to 5 mm ID. The issue with pumps is that they can leave as much as half a litre of oil in the sump that a proper drain gets out!

And nothing quite beats hot oil running down your arm / sticking your thumb in the sump bolt hole as you re-align the oil drip tray Lovely on a cold winter day :p

And nothing quite beats hot oil running down your arm / sticking your thumb in the sump bolt hole as you re-align the oil drip tray Lovely on a cold winter day :p

If those are significant problems, then that may be you; I've never had them.

If those are significant problems, then that may be you; I've never had them.

Only once. Learnt my lesson!

To get this thread back on track ...

So ... to get from 90 to 110, what is the most cost effective mod? Injector nozzles, injector pump mod or remap ?

What increases can be expected ?

depends on how old your 90 is , the early 90's had a wastegated turbo against the VNT of the 110, the pump is different as are the injector nozzels and ecu.

if you have the 90 with VNT a tuning box is prob the cheapest way

I've got a 90hp estate registered Sept 2001, car has a foot of snow on it at the moment so I'm not checking the opinions sticker for the engine code!

I have some 110 nozzles (4 nozzles) I am selling, so it you put those in plus a remap should hopefully see you up to about 140bhp. (once it is confirmed you are using the same turbo)

PM me for details on the nozzles...not expensive at all.

************

Edited 28 January, 201115 yr by b1ackb1rd

Resurrecting a long dead thread;

I had a quote for a remap today from an established local company who have changed their name recently from ChippedUK, and I'd like opinions please;

I have a TDI 90 ALH motor; and I asked for the 'economic' map. The remapper reckons he can get an extra 35hp, 70Nm .... for £350 inc VAT

I reckon estimates and price are wildly optimistic ... what do you think?