I posted a problem on here and could do with some help as I am looking to install these tonight

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/169630-mk1-ocy-speaker-wiring-help/

Cheers

Mike

I replied mate. BTW - Are you going to power them off an amp?

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by cawmere

Thanks I'm not mate, I'm hoping it will be enough of a difference without the amp. I'm looking at getting a small sub for the back. I don't want window smashing sound levels, just better quality. Apparently they are sat at home so I'll take a look in about 20mins

depending on the wattage of your speakers an amp may be the way to go. Do you have an aftermarker stereo? - easier with a sub pre out channel for the sub install.

Good luck with install

Edited 2 August, 201015 yr by cawmere

depending on the wattage of your speakers an amp may be the way to go. Do you have an aftermarker stereo? - easier with a sub pre out channel for the sub install.

Good luck with install

Hello mate, I've updated the topic if you can take a look I have an aftermarket stereo, if it doesn't sound that good then I will look to amp it, the speakers can take upto 250 watts.

Well I got it all in and its 100x better than standard, I am really really happy with them. There is actually quite a lot of bass and its very clear. I think I will upgrade the rears with some 2 ways and then see about a sub.

Which front components did you use in the end?

I went for some alpine 1750s, I got them for £40 delivered. I wasn't expecting as good an increase to be honest. I'm going to get some alpines for the rear and install them today.

What size does the Octavia take in front/rear speakers? I need to do mine to match the output of the new head unit!

The fronts are 17cm and the rears are 13cm. I've just done my rears and am well happy with the results

I fitted these as an alternative to the alpines that most seem to fit. They're still slim fit, and direct replacement. The frequency response is a bit greater than the alpines on the bottom end too.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/pioneer-ts-g171c.html

Recommend them

just to chip in with my two cents worth, i've recently upgraded the sounds in my vrs and, amp aside, the biggest improvements came from fabricating some MDF mounting rings & deadening and sealing the front doors.

obviously demands a bit of time and effort, but if you enjoy nice clean, bassy sounds with none of that rattley, buzzing rubbish when you turn things up, i highly recommend doing this

Also when you upgrade the rears you will find that you have 4 wires going from the rear speakers (same as the front), which route to rear tweeters in the doors.

Unplug these wires to the tweeters and don't use the rear tweeters. You will find this an instant upgrade, even with standard rear speakers.

Edited 6 August, 201015 yr by Bowders1

just to chip in with my two cents worth, i've recently upgraded the sounds in my vrs and, amp aside, the biggest improvements came from fabricating some MDF mounting rings & deadening and sealing the front doors.

obviously demands a bit of time and effort, but if you enjoy nice clean, bassy sounds with none of that rattley, buzzing rubbish when you turn things up, i highly recommend doing this

any more info on this? I agree thats the biggest problem, keeping the weatherproof liner reasonably intact to keep water out at the same time as wanting to allow the door volume to load the speaker properly is contentious. What effectively happens is the cone movement ends up flapping the door liner about..

I cut the bottom half of the foam off, hopefully this will keep the weather out.

any more info on this? I agree thats the biggest problem, keeping the weatherproof liner reasonably intact to keep water out at the same time as wanting to allow the door volume to load the speaker properly is contentious. What effectively happens is the cone movement ends up flapping the door liner about..

sure thing. obviously the mdf rings speak for themselves and wholly depend on the mounting depth of the speaker. for my alpine spr-17s's i used 18mm mdf to fabricate the standard plastic mount that bolts to the door frame, with an added 12mm spacer ring glued to it to bring the speaker out enough to clear the window mech. these speakers have a mounting depth of 59mm which, in my opinion, is pretty much the limit for octy doors. due to the size of the magnets, i had to cut off the corner of the metal door skin just next to the bottom of the window runner, but this really isn't a big deal.

far as the factory waterproof liner goes, if the deadening & sealing is done properly you are effectively replacing it. i used a load of this stuff: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/silent-coat-mat-bulk-pack.html applied to both the outer skin (inward side of the outer door panel) and the inner skin (metal layer everything's bolted to). when applying it to the inner skin, just make sure you cover over any holes. this kills two birds with one stone by sealing the inner skin, effectively turning the door into a speaker box much like a sub uses in the boot, and stopping any moisture coming in through the holes. only problem with this is the octy has a couple of large open sections that are hard to cover and seal with deadening alone. i used sheets of 3mm acrylic, cut to fit, screwed to the door frame and heat gunned to shape to seal these holes, then stuck the deadening over the top.

once that's done and the mdf rings are mounted, use more deadening to seal any gaps between the mdf mounts and the door skin.

door is now sound deadened and sealed against any moisture. throw that cheap-ass plastic lining away.

all this may sound a bit overkill and it does take a bit of doing, but it totally depends on what you're hoping to achieve. i've no interest in a big, booming mobile club for a car and i'm no ice-junky (this was my first attempt at this sort of thing) but i do love a clean, crisp powerful stereo system simply because i love listening to my music how it's supposed to sound. the difference between what i have now and the standard set up is ridiculous.

got a bit carried away there, but always better to have too much detail than too little

b-r-v - thank you, great description, and I can imagine how much improvement that makes.

no problem rich.

learnt all this from from the forum on the talk audio website. great place to look for any car audio info

Have to agree - sound deadening makes a big difference

I'm looking to upgrade the system on my [Octavia Mk1] VRS Estate and I saw this thread whilst searching for info on front speakers. Up until now she's not had much use as she's been a second car to a Mazda RX8, but now I need to come down to just one car and she's the sensible option (as far as a VRS can ever be a sensible option).

I've not finalized the system, as for one reason or another I've got several Pioneer head units, nav units and display screens that I have to choose between and a pioneer sub amp and sub to put in the boot. My thoughts were to use the rear speakers only when I had back seat passengers, which would average one day per week, and to rely for the most part on the front speakers and sub.

I liked the sound of the door insulation until I saw the price (£77 inc delivery on eBay, although buying a number of starter kits may give better value).

It's nice to know that 170mm speakers with a 59 mm mounting depth can be made to fit, albeit with some large spacers and some metal cutting. That may be a little large for me, depending on how they look.

BRV: can you put some pics up?

Cheers all,

Ian

will do ian. was gonna whip the door cards off at the weekend to add a bit more deadening anyway (if it stops bloody raining!), so i'll take some pics then.

as far as how the alpines look, you wouldn't even know they're there. trimming off the little corner of door skin metal where the bottom of the window runner bolts on, frees up just enough space to mount them where the factory ones originally sat. no modification of the door card required, not even the plastic speaker grill, so you get a totally stealthy, factory fitted look. same goes for the tweeters. the alpine ones clip straight in the factory covers.

i'll say again, if you're after good quality sound it really is all about getting the doors sealed and deadened. i can't stress this enough as it literally transforms the speakers, particularly the bass delivery. remember giving them a test run in the standard factory set up at the beginning of the install, being distinctly unimpressed and thinking 'defintely going to need a sub'. running them again at the end i couldn't believe the difference. bass is incredibly strong and tight, so much so i'm not bothering with a sub at all.

how much do you think it cost to sound deaden your doors bud?

depends on how you approach it. many people go down the cover everything route but personally, unless you're installing a competiton grade set up, i think this is overkill and a waste of cash. once you've got roughly 40%-50% of a surface covered it's a case of the law of diminishing returns - adding more doesn't make a whole lot of difference.

as i didn't really know how much i was going to need and couldn't be bothered fiddling around with the relatively expensive small packs, i just went for the bulk pack i mentioned in my previous post. about 80 quid delivered i think, but i used the rest to deaden the boot, 3/4 panels and under the back seats.

actually have a load left over from the last bulk pack if you're interested?

sure thing. obviously the mdf rings speak for themselves and wholly depend on the mounting depth of the speaker. for my alpine spr-17s's i used 18mm mdf to fabricate the standard plastic mount that bolts to the door frame, with an added 12mm spacer ring glued to it to bring the speaker out enough to clear the window mech. these speakers have a mounting depth of 59mm which, in my opinion, is pretty much the limit for octy doors. due to the size of the magnets, i had to cut off the corner of the metal door skin just next to the bottom of the window runner, but this really isn't a big deal.

far as the factory waterproof liner goes, if the deadening & sealing is done properly you are effectively replacing it. i used a load of this stuff: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/silent-coat-mat-bulk-pack.html applied to both the outer skin (inward side of the outer door panel) and the inner skin (metal layer everything's bolted to). when applying it to the inner skin, just make sure you cover over any holes. this kills two birds with one stone by sealing the inner skin, effectively turning the door into a speaker box much like a sub uses in the boot, and stopping any moisture coming in through the holes. only problem with this is the octy has a couple of large open sections that are hard to cover and seal with deadening alone. i used sheets of 3mm acrylic, cut to fit, screwed to the door frame and heat gunned to shape to seal these holes, then stuck the deadening over the top.

once that's done and the mdf rings are mounted, use more deadening to seal any gaps between the mdf mounts and the door skin.

door is now sound deadened and sealed against any moisture. throw that cheap-ass plastic lining away.

all this may sound a bit overkill and it does take a bit of doing, but it totally depends on what you're hoping to achieve. i've no interest in a big, booming mobile club for a car and i'm no ice-junky (this was my first attempt at this sort of thing) but i do love a clean, crisp powerful stereo system simply because i love listening to my music how it's supposed to sound. the difference between what i have now and the standard set up is ridiculous.

got a bit carried away there, but always better to have too much detail than too little

---great work ...........by the way how do you mount the mdf rings ???????? :S

I got DLS RS6N 2-way kit which depth is 53mm. So its possible to use some spacers to rise speaker few millimeters without problems with door card?