Just rotated all the wheels and used the jack supplied with the car. Would have been quicker using the trolley jack but no obvious points to lift on. Also lots of warnings on rear suspension!!

Any advice on jacking points for a trolley jack?

Ian

...and then where to position axle stands as well please

Steve

Never really understood rotating the tyres.

Surely this means that you'll have to replace all four tyres around the same time instead of spreading the cost by replacing two at a time?

Never really understood rotating the tyres.

Surely this means that you'll have to replace all four tyres around the same time instead of spreading the cost by replacing two at a time?

Yes, but it is useful if you are changing brand of tyres, likewise if your car wears (for example) the inside edge of your tyres more than the rest of the tyre then you can get more wear out of them.

Likewise if you do not do many miles then you may find the rear tyres start cracking due to age when there is loads of tread left on them.

(BTW I generally do not rotate mine - but they wear evenly and get worn out before they crack)

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/106022899596357479599/2010OctaviaVrsTSiJackingAxleStandPoints#5477881529943948082

I always like to keep the maximum amount of tread on the rear on a fwd car. So when the front are worn, I put the rears on the front and the new ones on the rear. :wonder:

I always like to keep the maximum amount of tread on the rear on a fwd car.

You're a wuss

Oversteer for the win!!

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/106022899596357479599/2010OctaviaVrsTSiJackingAxleStandPoints#5477881529943948082

Useful link

Useful picture.

How far in from each wheel arch should the jack be on the sills - it looks like you jack on the seam rather than the sill itself?

When the jack or axle stand is in contact with the car, do you use something to cushion the cup on the jack? My trolley jack has already bent round the seam on the sill, but I was wary of using a wooden packer in case it slipped.

Steve

Useful picture.

How far in from each wheel arch should the jack be on the sills - it looks like you jack on the seam rather than the sill itself?

There's some pinch welds on the seam, it's the only reinforced bit there. I wouldn't try going either side of the visible pinches.

When the jack or axle stand is in contact with the car, do you use something to cushion the cup on the jack? My trolley jack has already bent round the seam on the sill, but I was wary of using a wooden packer in case it slipped.

Yeah i never use the metal bowl on the jack head alone. Its always either with a 6" strap of hardwood to spread the load or with a heavy rubber hockey puck (£0.99 off ebay) in the bowl.

With 1 tonne of metal clamping the wood to the jack, it's not going to move provided the load is striaght through it (i.e. you're not jacking at an angle) and that you dont try to shove the car off the jack from the side (which you'd never do anyway).

A tip on here somewhere which I followed and it works.

Hockey puck with a V-slot cut in it. As it's a plastic/rubber compound, the head of the jack digs in to stop slipping.

Bought a puck.

Much to the amusement of my wife

Steve

A tip on here somewhere which I followed and it works.

Hockey puck with a V-slot cut in it. As it's a plastic/rubber compound, the head of the jack digs in to stop slipping.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/149492-jacking-pad-for-trolley-jack/

Never really understood rotating the tyres.

Surely this means that you'll have to replace all four tyres around the same time instead of spreading the cost by replacing two at a time?

But with 4WD/AWD by rotating them you'll keep the wear even and avoid any winding-up of transmission etc. I've always done it on quattros/Torsens (and FWD for that matter as deals are better for 4 tyres), but don't know whether it applies to Haldex. Normally rotate when combined depth for F+R is depth new + min tread depth (1.6mm). So for a 7mm tread typical of a new tyre, change when total for one side of the car is 8.6mm. Sounds a bit scientific, but if you check depth with your fingertips when you wash you wheels you'll get a good idea of how they're wearing - a good rule of thumb (couldn't resist that one......)

Nice tip about the puck

Steve

Thanks for the replies.

Rotating - our octavia was one of the last with a proper alloy as the spare so i've put the one curbed wheel nearing the wear bars as the spare and bought 1 new tyre. Put original rears on the front and 2 new tyres on the back.

Re photo of jacking / axel stand points - on the rear (on our car and in the photo) is a warning sticker on one of the suspension arms. I wasn't sure if this related to the arm itself or the centre beam where the both join the chassis?

Thanks

ian

I always like to keep the maximum amount of tread on the rear on a fwd car. So when the front are worn, I put the rears on the front and the new ones on the rear. :wonder:

Never understood why the tyre places say that. The rear tyres basically do very little on a FWD car and to say terminal understeer is better than any chance of oversteer is elf and safety gone mad. Of course I'm not suggesting baldy tyres are a good idea front or back....

Edited 7 September, 201015 yr by juan27

They do very little do they? Can't agree with that. They make up the four contact points between you and the road. They're therefore just as important as the front tyres!

I agree with the logic and tend to put the tyres with most tread at the back. As you correctly identify, it's generally easier to detect and react to understeer in a FWD, that it is with oversteer.