Hi All,

I'm new to the site having just bought myself a Felicia estate that needs a bit of work doing to it.

I've owned a diesel Felicia hatch for the past 5 years and it's been a really good car,- never let me down. Now that the family has grown I decided we needed something bigger. Unfortunately I didn't properly look at what I was buying and so i've ended up with a bit of a heap. It's a 98 facelift model, 1,9 diesel with a genuine 49K on the clock, but the body is pretty ropey and the interior is a mess.

Fortunately My sister gave me her old felicia as spares for mine, so I have a car full of parts to use.

I have a few questions:

Will pre-facelift doors, front wings and dash fit a post facelift model?

will pre-facelift hatchback carpets fit a post facelift estate, (apart from the Boot carpet obviously)

Is the windscreen bonded in or rubbered in? If it's bonded, can I remove the rubber seal easily so as to paint the A posts?

Has anyone used wheels spacers on the felicia before?

Is there anything I should look out for on the estate? I know about rear arches rusting from my hatchback but that's all.

The car's currently silver but it needs a complete respray. I'm planning on doing it in a metallic black with silver wheels and silver roof bars. Anyone got any opinions?

Cheers all,

Rob.

Edited 10 September, 201015 yr by Kit_Car_Rob

The estate is essentially a hatchback with an extra 13" welded in between the rear seats and the tailgate, so they're very similar if not identical in most respects. The only notable differences in the interior are the boot carpet, headlining and C/D pillar trim complete with rear speakers. Between pre- and post-facelift there's no huge differences either apart from the centre console and the colour. As for body panels, I'm not entirely sure, but with the exception of early '95-'96 (non reinforced body) models I suspect most bits are interchangeable. The windscreen is held in by the infamous leak-prone rubber seal, but on the estate the rear side windows are bonded.

Estates don't appear to have had a rear anti-roll bar fitted as standard, so it's worth nicking that off the hatchback. Otherwise just beware rusty arches, wings and lower spring seats, as before.

The Audi-esque colour scheme sounds interesting, pretty much the exact opposite of what I've considered for mine (i.e. getting the wheels refurbished and powder coated dark grey/black - I like the body as is in silver with black bits)

Hi Robin, Thanks for the reply. I didn't know about hte rear ARB so gald I asked now.

I would much rather not have to paint the car but given the state of it, it needs a blow over. The wife decided that she would prefer it in black so that's the reason for the choice of colour. Hopefully it'll turn out looking reasonable.

Does anyone know of a partslist or something like, that I could download. That would confirm the interchangeability of parts for me.

Cheers,

Rob.

http://www.vagcat.com should be some help. I think Robin's right though, I've owned (and broken) several of each, and the differences are as outlined, it's just a stretched hatch, with the obvious changes needed. Rear springs are stiffer too.

Thanks djaychela, that's a really helpful site.

I started taking bits off the car last night. Fortunately the floor pan and insides look pretty clean.

Am I correct in thinking that the upholestry will unclip from the seats? I'm tempted to put it in the washing machine and see how it comes up. I've also decided to recover the headlining as it's filthy and stinks of fag smoke. I covered a headlining on my kit car a few years ago; quite an easy and cheap job really!

Rob.

Well i've finally managed to get the car all stripped down, dents repaired, door swapped and fully painted, (gloss black but not metallic). I'm now in the process of putting it all back together. I've used the electric windows off my sister old car and i'm going to re-cover the dash with some black alcantara type material that i bought from a vehicle upholsterer. Also ordered a light grey headlining material toaday.

All in all it looks quite smart, but is crying out for a wide set of rims. the standard steel wheels are just so narrow! Will try and post pics when it's all done!

I plan to swap the ignition barrel on my estate with a different one so that i have a complete key set, (from onother car). I guess i have to swap the immobiliser ring as well? If so how is it done?

I plan to swap the ignition barrel on my estate with a different one so that i have a complete key set, (from onother car). I guess i have to swap the immobiliser ring as well? If so how is it done?

The (potentially) easiest option is to just swap the transponder chips in the keys over. Another option is to re-code the existing immobiliser to the new key. Otherwise the only part you'd need to swap is the actual immo box itself from behind the instrument panel. If the two cars have the same engine it would be simplest to swap the ECUs as well, thus avoiding the need for reprogramming, otherwise you'll need VAG-COM/VCDS to reprogram the ECU to accept the new immo box.

I've been doing a bit of DIYing with keys recently along a similar vein. I think I'm sorted for the reprogramming aspects, but until I get some new transponders to play with it's only theory...

The (potentially) easiest option is to just swap the transponder chips in the keys over. Another option is to re-code the existing immobiliser to the new key. Otherwise the only part you'd need to swap is the actual immo box itself from behind the instrument panel. If the two cars have the same engine it would be simplest to swap the ECUs as well, thus avoiding the need for reprogramming, otherwise you'll need VAG-COM/VCDS to reprogram the ECU to accept the new immo box.

I've been doing a bit of DIYing with keys recently along a similar vein. I think I'm sorted for the reprogramming aspects, but until I get some new transponders to play with it's only theory...

yes swapping the chips over is easyist anything else will need vcds to program them.

I used 15" deep dish rims on the rally car and they looked perfect in the arches

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii223/felicia16v/technical%20pics/DSC00009.jpg

they may be on ebay soon as I am slowly making my way thru the rally bits now too :p

Thanks for the replies guys,- I didn't realise the ECU would need swapping as well as the immobiliser stuff!

So, the next question is: Can I swap the chips from pre-faceleift keys to post facelift keys, (and vica-versa)?

I guess the keys just prise open?

Thanks for the replies guys,- I didn't realise the ECU would need swapping as well as the immobiliser stuff!

So, the next question is: Can I swap the chips from pre-faceleift keys to post facelift keys, (and vica-versa)?

I guess the keys just prise open?

yes the chip is only about the size or large grain of rice and its glass too so be carefull, prise the key open with a flat screwdriver.

sometimes the chip may have been glued in so you may need to soak in thinners for a bit to loosen the chip.

the immob box is coded to the engine ecu so you need to swap the ecu + box + key to avoid any recoding.

also if you donor car is petrol the immob box cannot be coded into the diesel car as they talk a different language :S so swapping chips is the only easy option

I decided to leave the original ignition switch in place in the end, when I realised i'd have to cut the assembly off the column to get it all apart!

Anyways, I've fitted electric windows from a pre-facelift car to this one. Does anyone know if the window switches are the same for pre- and post facelift? I only have 1 working switch at the mo and I also need the panel that the switches are mounted in. anyone got one for sale?

Started using the car today too. It goes quite well but it does havea creak as you pull away,- maybe a dodgy engine mount or something?