Is a boost gauge as easy To fit as it looks pipe in the intercooler pipe then to the gauge?

Yup

If you do the EGR delete then it comes with an attatchment to accomodate a boost gauge

Ye got one of them just waiting for my boost pipe lol

Pretty much, I have a Jabba EGR delete pipe with a boost take off nipple, saves having to tap into the upper boost pipe. If you install a delete pipe though it will trip the CEL light on your dash which means getting it mapped out (or ignoring it).

As there is no negative pressure on a Fab vRS I really struggled to find a suitable (mechanical) boost gauge - in the end I went with a VDO one with 3 bar on it.

If you remove the glove box you can plumb the tube through a grommit there and feed it behind the centre console, behind the pedals and up to your gauge. I threaded the the tube and the electrics through the upper dash air vent via the fuse panel so I didn't have to drill through the dash.

John

As there is no negative pressure on a Fab vRS I really struggled to find a suitable (mechanical) boost gauge - in the end I went with a VDO one with 3 bar on it.

Oh C*ck..!

Edit: lol sorry not you.

Edited 14 September, 201015 yr by JLneonhug

Oh C*ck..!

Edit: lol sorry not you.

I did exactly the same thing bud - most of my knowledge comes from mistakes when it comes to cars! One more tip for you... take a trip to your local aquatics shop and buy a little plastic regulator valve for a couple quid (tops)! You'll probably find if you don't add one in to your boost tube line to the gauge it'll be buzzing like crazy especially at full boost, this will just enable you to turn / wind the pressure down a bit.

Also get a gauge with about 3 bar, this is the one I bought http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6100/VDO-TURBO-BOOST-GAUGE-0-3-BAR/product_info.html purely because I couldnt find any other mechanical ones without negative values and with ample boost to future proof a few mods

BTW it looks pretty good lit up green, I'll chuck a photo up tomorrow night.

John

The main problem with derv boost is not just the lack of vacuum, but also the max boost, which is often off the scale of most gauges. I have a -1 to +2.5 Racetech gauge which is ideal for me as I basically use the entire positive scale, and never use the vacuum scale

Obviously backlighting optional but it helps to see at night. Mine comes from radio wiring I think.

(one on the left)

The main problem with derv boost is not just the lack of vacuum, but also the max boost, which is often off the scale of most gauges. I have a -1 to +2.5 Racetech gauge which is ideal for me as I basically use the entire positive scale, and never use the vacuum scale

Obviously backlighting optional but it helps to see at night. Mine comes from radio wiring I think.

(one on the left)

Did you once have a VDO gauge Jason, thought I'd seen a piccy of it? I'm surprised 2.5 bar is enough on your beast! mine peaks at 2 bar on a stage 1 revo, please don't tell me there's something else wrong with my car

John

I did exactly the same thing bud - most of my knowledge comes from mistakes when it comes to cars! One more tip for you... take a trip to your local aquatics shop and buy a little plastic regulator valve for a couple quid (tops)! You'll probably find if you don't add one in to your boost tube line to the gauge it'll be buzzing like crazy especially at full boost, this will just enable you to turn / wind the pressure down a bit.

Also get a gauge with about 3 bar, this is the one I bought http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6100/VDO-TURBO-BOOST-GAUGE-0-3-BAR/product_info.html purely because I couldnt find any other mechanical ones without negative values and with ample boost to future proof a few mods

BTW it looks pretty good lit up green, I'll chuck a photo up tomorrow night.

John

Ahh thanks for the heads up .

Edited 14 September, 201015 yr by JLneonhug

2 bar peak might be OK for just 1 second or less, but sustained boost of that is NOT good.

I have never had a VDO - prefer the more old fashioned needle when it comes to boost. Have electronic gauges for all other readouts though, EGT, oil & water temps + oil pressure.

2 bar peak might be OK for just 1 second or less, but sustained boost of that is NOT good.

I have never had a VDO - prefer the more old fashioned needle when it comes to boost. Have electronic gauges for all other readouts though, EGT, oil & water temps + oil pressure.

Thank fu<k for that, I'm done with expensive bills this month! yeah mine only peaks at 2 but never stays there.

I've bought a swoosh one looks pretty cool I'll get it all plumbed in soon then get some photos up,

Why would u wanna turn the boost down lol boost gets u laid lol

Forgot to say my gauge is in psi

Edited 15 September, 201015 yr by felix_19

Why would u wanna turn the boost down lol boost gets u laid lol

Wrong choice of phrase maybe, its more limiting the pressure to the gauge as the needle will buzz like mad - you'll see !

Pretty much, I have a Jabba EGR delete pipe with a boost take off nipple, saves having to tap into the upper boost pipe. If you install a delete pipe though it will trip the CEL light on your dash which means getting it mapped out (or ignoring it).

As there is no negative pressure on a Fab vRS I really struggled to find a suitable (mechanical) boost gauge - in the end I went with a VDO one with 3 bar on it.

If you remove the glove box you can plumb the tube through a grommit there and feed it behind the centre console, behind the pedals and up to your gauge. I threaded the the tube and the electrics through the upper dash air vent via the fuse panel so I didn't have to drill through the dash.

John

Yes you will get a CEL light displayed unless you do 1 of 2 things.

1. Re-map, costing anywhere from £300 up to what ever you want to pay.

2. extend the cabling for the Potentiometer (on BLT engines) or EGR (on ASZ engines). then the unit can be cabled to any location under the bonnet and strapped up to stop it moving.

I did the second of the 2 options (first time round). But even after the Re-map I didn't get it removed from the map as I may need to put car back to normal (ish).

It cost me a grand total of £20, for the cable and black tape from halfords and 2x 4 pin water tight plug&sockets. 30mins preperation and about 45 mins doing the job. it only took this long to do the job as I could not be bothered to remove my front strut.

All in all it cleared the CEL as it was still getting readings in the computer and it enabled me to continue using the car until I sorted a re-map.

enjoy.

Edited 16 September, 201015 yr by ns_sullivan

Mine is ment to be mapped out already for me putting this delete on if the light comes on it will b goin back for them to sort it lol

Yes you will get a CEL light displayed unless you do 1 of 2 things.

2. extend the cabling for the Potentiometer (on BLT engines) or EGR (on ASZ engines). then the unit can be cabled to any location under the bonnet and strapped up to stop it moving.

It cost me a grand total of £20, for the cable and black tape from halfords and 2x 4 pin water tight plug&sockets. 30mins preperation and about 45 mins doing the job. it only took this long to do the job as I could not be bothered to remove my front strut.

Slightly confused, where is this pot. you speak of?

Or did you mean buy a pot. and stick it into the connections on the vacuum ecu module? If thats the case which connection pin did you mean? :S

Thanks,