I've read the 12V switched feed articles on here, but I need something slightly different.

I want to run a 12V feed straight form the battery into the cockpit of my Yeti so the device is alway on, irrespective of the ignition switch.

On previous cars, it's been a simple matter of poking a couple of wires through the bulkhead, but on a cursory glance, the Yeti seems to just the little bit more awkward to get stuff from the engine compartment into the cockpit.

Has anyone done this and if so, how easy was it (bearing mind I am extremely ham-fisted and the use of words like "carefully remove" and "gently prise" are completely alien to me - "hit with 7lb hammer" is more my style!)

Jock,

feed for the MSA Radio, by any chance?

Jock,

feed for the MSA Radio, by any chance?

Got it in one! You must be psychic!

No, I just know what we Safety Radio operators are like!!

I decided to be lazy, and just connected mine with a set of battery clips the other weekend, and had no problems. I have decided that I am going to remount mine though and include an old volt meter on the board to keep an eye on the battery level.

You out on WRGB?

Edited 15 September, 201015 yr by Llanigraham

No, I just know what we Safety Radio operators are like!!

I decided to be lazy, and just connected mine with a set of battery clips the other weekend, and had no problems. I have decided that I am going to remount mine though and include an old volt meter on the board to keep an eye on the battery level.

You out on WRGB?

Not doing the WRGB I'm afraid - I'm in two minds as to the Trackrod (because it's just up the road), but am booked for the Rally of Scotland.

How many amps do you need ?

Could use an add-a-circuit and connect to an always-on fuse if low ?

How many amps do you need ?

Could use an add-a-circuit and connect to an always-on fuse if low ?

I'd prefer circuit to be able to handle 10A, although in actual operation, 5A is fine (I sometimes use an inverter on this feed as well).

As a slight tangent to this: do both the standard 12V sockets in the car switch off with the ignition? In my Audi I love the fact that it is permanently live so I can charge cameras and what not when I'm camping without the key having to be in the ignition.

Giles,

the radios can draw a bit of power sometimes and can also pick up stray transmissions, which is why it is recommended to take a straight feed from the battery, as Jock is proposing. I haven't found a circuit diagram for some of these gadgets so would be very wary. Have you got a link to "add a circuit"?

9m,

well the front one stays live with the ignition off. Haven't tried the back one yet.

well the front one stays live with the ignition off. Haven't tried the back one yet.

Phew... good. I have an inverter with a three point socket on it to charge stuff when camping and I certainly don't want to sit in the car the whole time they are charging.

well the front one stays live with the ignition off. Haven't tried the back one yet.

Both stay live when the ignition is switched off and the key removed. I run a 'fridge in the boot for my "tinnies".

I am also looking for a route through from the battery to the boot area for my (tow bracket located) winch.

Both stay live when the ignition is switched off and the key removed. I run a 'fridge in the boot for my "tinnies".

I am also looking for a route through from the battery to the boot area for my (tow bracket located) winch.

If you have the 13 pin trailer plug wired correctly, pin 9 should be a direct battery + connection and pin 13 the ground( -)

Edited 16 September, 201015 yr by Agerbundsen

If you have the 13 pin trailer plug wired correctly, pin 9 should be a direct battery + connection and pin 13 the ground( -)

Unfortunately this will not work as the winch takes many many amps so I need to fit the correct wiring (which I have) to the inside of the car. Using the trailer plug would probably overheat the internal wiring with unfortunate consequences.

Both stay live when the ignition is switched off and the key removed. I run a 'fridge in the boot for my "tinnies".

Hi, going off at a slight tangent:

What model of fridge do you run, and how do you prevent it running the battery flat when the engine isn't running?

Hi, going off at a slight tangent:

What model of fridge do you run, and how do you prevent it running the battery flat when the engine isn't running?

Its a Johnlite Travel Cooler. Its a few years old - came from Gelert if I remember rightly. It uses the "Peltier effect" like many of the older coolboxes. The diesel has to have a robust battery to fire up the engine and the cooler is a light user of power unlike the more modern compressor type fridges so power consumption has not been a problem as yet!!

Can anyone give me a push start?

A lot of the newer better quality fridges have a voltage sensing system that cuts off power if the voltage drops below something like 10v.

Re the power supply matter, does anyone know where the leads to the centre console power socket is? Can it be got to if you remove the gear gaiter?