about 2 months ago i washed my car with megs gold class, clayed then used meg's 3 step system. since then i've washed it regularly every fortnight.

i notice it's still looks great but when i look really closely and under very bright lights i can see a very little swirl marks. they are extremely difficult to notice but are there and can be seen using a magifying glass. now do i simpley apply another layer of wax, do the 3 step process again or use autogylm polish (red labl)

i also have Mer's polish (which claims to have carnuba wax in), a small bottle of cleaner wax which came in the clay kit (meg)

which do i apply? thanks.

i am hoping the autogylm...as the meg's 3 step process took me hours and a week to recover (my sore arms)

edit: i wish to use only the products i have already

Edited 26 September, 201015 yr by fabia55

The Autoglym Super Resin Polish (red label) contains fillers so will fill/hide some of the swirls you've found...apply (thinly) with a sponge or microfibre applicator then buff off with a microfibre cloth...if it becomes dusty when removing you've applied too much

This needs to be topped up with a wax or sealant as the Super Resin doesn't offer any protection on it's own.

The Autoglym Super Resin Polish (red label) contains fillers so will fill/hide some of the swirls you've found...apply (thinly) with a sponge or microfibre applicator then buff off with a microfibre cloth...if it becomes dusty when removing you've applied too much

This needs to be topped up with a wax or sealant as the Super Resin doesn't offer any protection on it's own.

thanks for the advice.

i think i'll try the autoglym sr polish and apply some meg's caranuba wax. but what about the wax already on. do i remove the wax before applying the autoglym sr polish.

Edited 26 September, 201015 yr by fabia55

I'd clay the paint again, apply AG SRP then apply a couple of wax coats. Applying SRP over your wax coats isn't advisable.

This should achieve the best results, with the products you currently have.

Steve

thanks wardy for the advice. i still have 2 small clay bars left but only about less than a quarter of trhe bottle of quick detailer to use as lubricant though.

If you want the SRP to work properly then you need to work it. AG recommend 4 minutes manually per 12" square area(!) or using a very soft finishing pad on a DA.

That's why I'd never go back to manually polishing!

On the lack of QD issue, you could water it down if you wanted. That would be OK if you want to avoid having to buy any more! A 50/50 mix should be OK.

Steve

i've been reading up on different clay bars on detailing world forum and meg's clay bars is recommended with a lubricant rather than water as lube like bilt hammer clay. 50 50, you mean 50 water and 50 shampoo mixture?

4 mins of elbow grease per 12 inches!! that's even harder work than doing the 3 layers (of the meg's 3 step system)

i think i might need to be looking for a cheap (and hopefully reliable) polisher now... with cheap replaceable pads

Edited 30 September, 201015 yr by fabia55

What I meant was you could water the QD down to make it last longer. So in a 1L bottle (for example), 500ml of QD and 500ml of water.

Yes, claying is one of the most time consuming steps. It prepares the paint properly for polishing though, so there's no substitute really

Steve

i've found that the claying was the easiest and quickest step. I used plenty of lubricant and sliding very quickly, is that not what u meant to do it?

Edited 5 October, 201015 yr by fabia55

Depends on the condition of the paint really. You don't have to be doing it mega quickly, just at a speed that will pick the contaminants up off the paint really. And not too slowly that the clay sticks to the paintwork.

Steve

i can do the whole car in 8-10 mins starting on the roof finishing off with the lower half of the car and if it hasn't picked up much dirt i'd use the clay bar on the wheels.