Wazzap,

How is it possible to know how much I need to tighten the cylinder head bolts if I don't have a torque wrench? I replaced the head gasket but still water came into the oil. I lifted the head again and noticed the gasket wasn't damaged. I then started retightening the bolts and one bolt snapped. Luckily, I managed to unscrew it. I still haven't found a replacement..

just wondering, did you get the head skimmed otherwise it could be warped... its always best to use a torque wrench can you not borrow one? i cant remember the torque at the moment but il check when i get home

They are torqued first (25Nm if i recall correctly, could be complete rubbish), and then angle tightened by a couple of stages. Again, I think that's 90 degrees, twice, but again, I could be wrong on that too!

Can't see that replacing something so critical without is a good idea. A torque wrench is cheaper (IMO) than having to do the job twice.

^^^pretty much spot on - I don't have a Favorit manual to hand, but the Estelle and Felicia manuals both say 17-20Nm then 2 stages of 90 degrees. Given that a suitable basic torque wrench can be had for ~£20 (or a really good one for ~£60), I wouldn't go near an engine without having one first.

Edit: missed a bit - after doing all that to the main bolts, the 4 nuts down the side should be done up to 26Nm for plain nuts with washers, or 24Nm for self-locking nuts (or if it's really old, 20-26Nm for bolts).

Did you check the cylinder liners? Particularly if the engine overheated or the crank was moved with the head off, they could have shifted which would cause further HG problems.

Edited 14 October, 201015 yr by RobinSLXi

Actually, as Robin says above, a Torque wrench is a vital tool. If you use one on EVERYTHING you never have things go wrong, or come loose. I've rebuilt and fitted engines and gearboxes to the rally car, and not had anything come loose, give trouble or rattle at any point, and that's invaluable - £20 is a small price to pay for that.