Hi all,

My girlfriend has a 'W' reg Felicia that has covered 53k miles.

It is due for a service, what parts would be needed for a 50k service? What else should be looked at and changed?

Also...

The temperature gauge does not work, plus it seems a little sluggish for a 1.3, I'm not sure if the engine/gauge read off the same sensor?

The Power Steering feels a little slow, could it just be in need of new fluid? No known issues with the system?

Thanks.

Edited 16 November, 201015 yr by mk1dub

just oil & filter, plus an air filter i'd say, also if you are feeling hard core you could adjust the valve clearances too..

the power steering does tend to be a bit odd in these cars, when you say slow do you mean there is a time delay from turning the wheel to the pas kicking? if so try bleeding the air out of the pas circuit

Thank you Tom.

I think the spark plugs were done 20k ago? When would the belts be due?

What would the bleeding process be to get air out of the system on one of these? I will try and get more info on the PAS issue.

I think it's much the same as the 1.4 in my wife's Fabia, so yes, the sensor will be the cause for your dead temp gauge - and likely also the poor performance as you've guessed. I did a guide for the Fabia, here:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/61178-fabia-coolant-temp-sensor-how-to/

You may wish to replace the thermostat housing as well, in which case get the pack with them both in...

As for the steering, does giving it a little bit more throttle help? If so, it may be that the battery is struggling to keep up with the draw from the pump.

Autodata reckons 50k should be oil change + MoT type checks + valve clearances / ignition timing / idle speed (as Tom's said) + brake fluid every second year + coolant every second or fifth year (depending if it's red or blue)

HTH

When would the belts be due?

What would the bleeding process be to get air out of the system on one of these? I will try and get more info on the PAS issue.

the 1300cc skoda engines all have a chain driven camshaft, and you normally only change it if it's noisy

to bleed the air out the pas circuit, jack the car so both front wheels are off the floor, and take the pas resovior cap off and with the engine running keep turning it from lock to lock and hold it at full lock for a few seconds each time to purge the air out. dont hold it at full lock too long or you'll boil the fluid over!! if you need to top up the pas fluid don't use atf, use the proper green mineral based stuff that all vag group cars use

Edited 15 November, 201015 yr by TeflonTom

Thank you both for the wealth of information.

That Autodata information is great!

1. What should the valve clearances be set to?

2. What should the timing be and how do you check/set it?

3. Idle speed easy to adjust? (I think I recall it being a bit low!)

More info on the PAS. The steering can go from feeling both light at times to feeling stiff at others, as in I guess, that sometimes it feels assisted and others not so? Pump/rack/fluid problem?

One other quite important issue that would be nice to rectify is that the car is known to cut-out when warm, usually quite often when it's sat at lights and you start to pull off. I have just read another thread and it mentions a throttle position sensor/stepper motor in/as part of the throttle body assembly(?). I'm guessing this won't be a cheap part new...

I did once have a look under the bonnet some time ago but can't quite recall if I saw 'SPI' or 'MPI' on the inlet manifold, would this be an obvious thing to tell from it being on a 'W' plate? As this would make it easier to track down the correct temperature sensor! (which may also help the cutting-out?)

Edited 16 November, 201015 yr by mk1dub

The SPi was phased out around '96/97 so on a W plate it's almost certainly an MPi - I was wondering if you might have got it mixed up. The obvious difference is that the SPi actually says 'big round air filter' on top of the manifold

Valve clearances are 0.25mm inlet, 0.20mm exhaust.

As for idling/starting problems, definitely check and fix the temp. sensor/thermostat before even considering things like throttle bodies - bear in mind that the sensor could actually be OK and the engine simply isn't warming up because the thermostat/housing has disintegrated and stuck open, that's equally likely especially now we don't have the option of sitting in traffic on a hot day to confirm it.

I'd also check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drive belt and make sure it's driving the PAS pump properly.

The multi-electrode plugs in the later MPis are supposedly good for around 30k (I think, plus it sounds like that's when yours were done), however if it's potentially been misfuelling for a while a new set might not go amiss. It may also be worth checking if the fuel filter was done at 40k like it should have been - it's awkward to get at and supposedly quite often skipped.

SPI / MPI sorted in the title!

Would it be worth me buying the part of the housing with the thermostat already in and fitting it (Jorily link) or to just look/check first?

Will check the belt and consider chucking in some new plugs and seeing if/when the fuel pump has been changed.

Any information on the correct ignition timing and the process of checking?

^ That's the part I put in my wife's car after the OEM part I originally bought failed the day after it was fitted! The housings go sooner or later, so unless you're planning to sell the car on immediately, I'd do it by way of preventive maintenance anyway...

Will get back to you on the timing!

YHPM

Thanks for the PM, one sent back also!

Using a library picture of the 1.3 MPI unit, the part on the Jorily link here appears to have a bit more plastic above it (and hopefully it is resting up against the small outlet to the expansion tank). I'm guessing this is simply part evolution and it will fit exactly the same?

Hmm, the one I got for the Fabia was identical on the outside to the original - although NOT QUITE the same as the Felicia one (ignore the yellow oval...):

I'd drop Jorily a PM to check...

I once asked what 'should' have been on a service after the dealer I bought mine from told me that it was normal for the oil to be black after a service and that "the oil filters came from the factory with mud on..." I've always used it as a good guide for what/when things need doing.

I'm not sure if this link will work but here goes... If not I can send you another link.

Felicia Service Schedule

If you have the MPI then I think timing etc is all fixed in the ECU so nothing to change. I'd buy the Haynes manual for the bit of extra guidance and the recommended order in which to do each valve, saves a few rotations of the engine. A socket on the crankshaft pulley with the cover by the drivers side wheel removed if you still have it on works for me - just remember to remove it before starting afterwards, I always forget!

I found it easiest to turn the engine by just jacking up the drivers side wheel, engaging 5th gear, and turning the wheel. Once you get used to it you can feel the compression build up and it snap back out.

Also see this epic post which will make the job 10 times easier http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/90342-the-proud-owner-of-a-tractor/page__view__findpost__p__1108203