PD 140 fuel filter change

[pixor]

In an attempt to improve my fuel economy from 38mpg I have changed the air filter (well grubby) and run Millers through a couple of tanks. The result? 41mpg (woo)!

Someone at work has told me his mate changed the fuel filter on his A4 diesel and got a significant improvement in his mpg.

My question is, does this sound worth doing (it's cheap), and if so, could you give me instructions, as there isn't a Haynes manual available, and a search on briskoda hasn't revealed anything?

I've had my car for a few weeks, and it's done 32k and recently had it's 2nd variable service done (an 08 model). There's nothing in the service record that confirms a fuel filter change has occurred.

Thanks.

P.S. While I am reasonably practical, I am no mechanic, so a photo of the fuel filter and where it is would be a great start

[FriendlyFire]

Hi

I changed mine at 16k and it was minging. It's easy to change - so can't hurt.

The filter housing position is the same for all VAG TDI engines but bring your VIN number to the dealer to get the exact right paper cartridge filter.

Below is an image and the filter housing is the silver topped can in the bottom left next to the windscreen washer cap.

Before you start place absorbant towels or similar around the filter and use a milk carton cut in half to catch the old filter and fuel.

The top of the fuel filter housing has four hoses coming into and out of it. DO NOT TOUCH THESE.

It has five or six screws holding it on. Remove these IIRC these are probably T25 screw bolts.

Once these are removed the lid is a tight fit - use a flat screw driver to separate the lid from the canister. It has a raised lip at one point in the rim for this purpose.

Reach into the can and pick out the paper cartridge filter. Note which way up is up then Discard.

Put the new one back in. Some have a hole in the top and bottom but mine (1.9TDI) had the hole in the top and was sealed at the bottom.

The lid of the filter has a rubber seal which should be replaced with the new one included with the filter.

Replace lid and tighten each screw a little at a time to force the lid down evenly. The lid has notches around the rim to align the lid to the canister and in thus the screws.

Remove all tools and cloths etc.

Start engine - might require a few turns esp. if you removed any fuel in the canister.

Once started check for leaks.

If all's well recheck for leaks again over the next couple of days.

Job done

[pixor]

Thanks, that's exactly what I need!

[Dougall]

:yes:

Edited 22 November, 2010 by Dougall

[pixor]

Thanks guys. It turned out to be a straightforward job, and I'm not sure if it's real or psychological, but I think the car's running smoother and hesitates less. I'll see how it affects the mileage.

[Mud]

Thanks FriendlyFire, I've just done mine - easy job and the old filter looked disgusting.

Just thought I'd chime in because I wasted some hours trying to source a fuel filter identical to the one I removed - GSF and euro car parts both offered me 3 different filters on producing my registration and VIN, none of which matched what I removed. I removed a tall thin filter with a hole in each end, but the part has now been superceded by a filter with a hole in only the top, though I had to go to the dealership to find this out.

[nick74]

One unfortunate characteristic of the Pumpe Duse fuel system design is that any injector blow-by from the combustion chambers ends up getting into the fuel system, or so I'm told.

A certain amount is apparently perfectly normal on these PD engines, hence the reason they make their fuel filter elements so black in such a short amount of time. I changed mine last year and it was pretty filthy after only about 15k. Far worse than anything I've seen on a distributor pump or common rail fuel system.