Its done 92,000 miles

I would like some information please on common faults

Good buy or dead horse

Engine code and possible remap

Its my first post so hello everyone

Welcome to Briskoda :-)

Should have have a cambelt at 80k, sticky turbo vanes (so crappy performance/limp home), dead MAF (so crappy performance).

My 110 (non PD) is a 2001 plate on and 175k, so at 92k there is the potential for many more miles....

Other faults / issues:

- blocked scuttle panel drains (rain drains into the car instead)

- microswitches in the door fail

- break in loom to drives door / water ingress into CCU connector block (electric window issues, C/L issues, mirror issues)

- the rear washer pipe can spit at a joint under the CD changer in the boot and cause electrical issues with the Changer

There may be others, but those spring to mind initially....

Hi and welcome!

As long as it's had (and continues to have) regular oil changes, with the RIGHT oil, it'll carry on for ages yet. I've the same engine as you and I'm only on 105 000 miles so far.

Things to look out for -

brake pedal switch (glow plug warning light on)

rear wiper motor

hazard warning relay

coolant temperature sensor

plus a few more I'm sure the more experienced members will add on! EDIT:- as mbames has pointed out, has it had a cambelt at 80k? If not, get one done asap.

The engine code is ASZ and you can happily map it up to 150/160 but be prepared for that to kill the clutch.

Edited 20 November, 201015 yr by 2SkodaFamily

Hi and welcome!

As long as it's had (and continues to have) regular oil changes, with the RIGHT oil, it'll carry on for ages yet. I've the same engine as you and I'm only on 105 000 miles so far.

Things to look out for -

brake pedal switch (glow plug warning light on)

rear wiper motor

hazard warning relay

coolant temperature sensor

plus a few more I'm sure the more experienced members will add on! EDIT:- as mbames has pointed out, has it had a cambelt at 80k? If not, get one done asap.

The engine code is ASZ and you can happily map it up to 150/160 but be prepared for that to kill the clutch.

My L&M now has 101k but what do you mean by the RIGHT oil - reason for asking is I have been changing oil every 5K due to mileage covered in year can easily be 18K.

Also I have noticed just recently that it takes a couple of attempts at the very first start of the day then OK after - however at the first start it kicks out loads of smoke!!!! Any ideas???

Edited 22 November, 201015 yr by smallbloke1

My L&M now has 101k but what do you mean by the RIGHT oil - reason for asking is I have been changing oil every 5K due to mileage covered in year can easily be 18K.

Also I have noticed just recently that it takes a couple of attempts at the very first start of the day then OK after - however at the first start it kicks out loads of smoke!!!! Any ideas???

"right oil" = correct VW spec for the type of servicing the car is running (fixed or variable). I am on variable and change my oil a little over once a year and travel approx 30k in that time.

glow plugs, dodgy CTS, how is your coolant level? what colour is the smoke?

If the problem is occurring only recently (cold mornings) then I would edge my bets on the starting issue being the glow plug(s). I think I might have two out! Just about splutters into life in the morning, but I've ordered 4 plugs so hopefully that will sort out what I suspect is the problem with yours too. They are only around a tenner each so not too bad and will more than likely need doing at some point even if they aren't a problem now.

"right oil" = correct VW spec for the type of servicing the car is running (fixed or variable). I am on variable and change my oil a little over once a year and travel approx 30k in that time.

glow plugs, dodgy CTS, how is your coolant level? what colour is the smoke?

Regarding oil - what oil should I be using as I have had a look round various posts about oil and getting a little worried. I have it serviced at an independant garage and not sure what they use - must be right though - reassurance needed!!

The service internal is as deemed by that annoying beeeppp that sounds every time I start the when there is 1K before the 10K interval - I presume this is fixed??

Coolant level is fine and changed sensor last year also had timing belt change last year

The smoke is light grey and loads of it.

I had a topic on cold starting problems - cycling the ignition seems to help with mine. Seems to be quite a common issue.

If the problem is occurring only recently (cold mornings) then I would edge my bets on the starting issue being the glow plug(s). I think I might have two out! Just about splutters into life in the morning, but I've ordered 4 plugs so hopefully that will sort out what I suspect is the problem with yours too. They are only around a tenner each so not too bad and will more than likely need doing at some point even if they aren't a problem now.

Have had a good look at various posts tonight and quite a few point towards glow plugs - how did you find out two had gone?

I had a topic on cold starting problems - cycling the ignition seems to help with mine. Seems to be quite a common issue.

Yeah I think I read your post that gave cycling the ignition and will try that. Did you also indicate the possibility of fuel pump timing in one of your posts?

The glowplugs on these engines are only energised when the engine is cold, and the ambiant temperature is below +5C. So they do tend to smoke first thing in the morning if it's 6 or 7C out.

As for the "service bong", mine's never done that; just displayed the count-down meter on startup. It might be possible to turn the bong off in VCDS then?

The oil required is the same as for the Fabia Vrs with the same engine - extensively doucumented on here, or if you look on the Opie oil site it will list suitable oils. I have found garages often put the wrong oil in (half the price!) even when you tell them what is required - they assume it is the same as the 90/110 engine which it isn't. I now supply my own. I think fixed servicing requires an oil compliant with 505 01, now 507.

I have no starting issues at 90K, but when it gets colder I do ignition/glowplug light out twice and make sure I crank till it catches, say 1 second, as opposed to just flicking it and instantly catching in warm weather. Mainly because if it almost starts and stalls it can sound like a bomb going off - the DM flywheel almost self destructing from the shock probably!

Edited 23 November, 201015 yr by Kandy

My L&M now has 101k but what do you mean by the RIGHT oil - reason for asking is I have been changing oil every 5K due to mileage covered in year can easily be 18K.

Also I have noticed just recently that it takes a couple of attempts at the very first start of the day then OK after - however at the first start it kicks out loads of smoke!!!! Any ideas???

See #5

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/19614-oil-advice-and-recommendations-here/

Hi and welcome!

As long as it's had (and continues to have) regular oil changes, with the RIGHT oil, it'll carry on for ages yet. I've the same engine as you and I'm only on 105 000 miles so far.

Things to look out for -

brake pedal switch (glow plug warning light on)

rear wiper motor

hazard warning relay

coolant temperature sensor

plus a few more I'm sure the more experienced members will add on! EDIT:- as mbames has pointed out, has it had a cambelt at 80k? If not, get one done asap.

The engine code is ASZ and you can happily map it up to 150/160 but be prepared for that to kill the clutch.

A regular oil change and New Oil filter plus Air filter , always improves the fuel consumption and performance . Do mine altogether at each service schedule .

My wife sold her 53 plate L&K diesel earlier this year with 170K on the clock.

When we bought it, it had a patchy service history but, it never let us down.

I still have my 51 plate Elegance TDi, now with almost 190K on the clock.

Had it for nearly 5 years now, and I'm only the second owner.

When I bought it I also got all the paperwork & receipts from the previous owner (he always took it to his Skoda dealer).

It still has a full Skoda Service History. Apart from new tyres and a new exhaust any other work has always been done at Skoda.

So 90K on the clock is not much really. I'd be more interested in it's service history and paperwork.

Basically... look after them and they'll probably last a long time.