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How To: Airbox Mod and 3" Pipping


Bowders1

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Thought I would post some pics of the Airbox mod i did some time back and more recently added some 3" cold air pipping

Job is not too difficult

To make it easier I would :

Obviously remove airbox asm
Remove headlight and indicator
Remove top battery plastic cover
Make sure you remove the wiring plugs to the headlight and indicator and remember to refit them.

Note if you want to attach a additional 3" hose you will need to mod the front bumper area to allow a good intake of air, as std bumper grills are solid. So consider geting Milotec grills or cut holes into your standard bumper grill inserts.

Airbox removed

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean038.jpg

To mod the airbox you can use a sharp chisel to cut off the high fins and then after that use a stanley knife and finnaly sand paper to clean up the protrusions remaining

Here is the Airbox modded. I did a few extra holes underneath(my choice)

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean033-1.jp

Top section

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean034.jpg

You will need to modify the bottom hole in airbox to fit a 3" pipping. I widened the top and bottom section to it's max area (before the bottom lip) This was perfect to allow the pipping metal rings to fit either side of the hole.

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean068.jpg

Then I used black mastic(tiger seal) to fill left and right sides of hose in airbox which would of exposed air, then allow to dry over night

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean076.jpg

Hose section attached:

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean040.jpg

Also you will need to cut out a triangler section in the right side of the bumper to allow the 3" pipping to go through bumper and sit in that hole.

seen here

VRSCAIpipefitting028.jpg

Piiping attached to airbox with Panel filter fitted

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean041.jpg

Airbox bottom section being installed(you can see the 3" piiping being routed down the side of the battery and down behind headlight and bumper.

VRSDIYCAIpipe3.jpg

Pipping routed behind the Light and down to bumper grill opening

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean044-1.jp

With Milotec Grill fitted

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean055.jpg

Note: If you have std grills you will need to drill holes into it as it is not vented, or route pipping somewhere else.


Job Completed

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean059.jpg

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bowders where did you get the milotec front grills from? is there a part number/name for them?

thanks in advance. sorry not hijacking the thread :giggle:

Hi there I got the grills from Super skoda.com

http://www.superskoda.com/octavia-i/sportgrills/skoda-octavia-00-07-rs-facelift-3pc-grill-v2-for-oem-bumper-milotec

item number 42105

Ignor the installed pic on the silver octy as they are not the ones ( the other pics on the 3 grills are thought)

hope this helps

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would you say the mod makes any difference?

The Std airbox does a good job at filtering air and getting it into the intake, but the cold air feed to the airbox is somewhat poor. It comes in through the inner wing to the airbox. There is no really good airflow as the headlight and other obsticles are in the way of flow through the inner wing.

So by routing a 3" feed from airbox down to the front bumper grill vent is a much better airflow and is the best mod to do to the airbox if you do nothing else.

I noticed difference between running with and without the extra airflow feed.

Note you will either have to replace the grills with Milotec ones or cut through your std one.

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I did another mod last few days.

Idea was to fit a shorter Trumpet to the top section to see if i could change / improve any better airflow.

I did not want to remove the trumpet from the top of the inner airbox, a wanted to keep a direct straight airflow going to MAF, so worked on a few different sizes.

We have the std trumpet

VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean034.jpg

Now std Trumpet alongside a modded section and a 3rd modded section, all different lengths

VRSWeitecBrokenRearSpring047.jpg

I went with a middle section as the shortest section lost it's shape when trying heat up the end to form a trumpet

VRSWeitecBrokenRearSpring048.jpg

VRSWeitecBrokenRearSpring052-1.jpg

VRSWeitecBrokenRearSpring055-1.jpg

Will post how car feels, as not had chance to drive it after just refiting a new set of rear springs due to one snapping

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I was interested in this Mod for my car but was unsure if a soot chucker would have any gains.

Anyway on having a looksie around I found this article on Torque Cars. I have reproduced the article below - makes for a good read:

Just read their copyright statement - you'll have to read on their site. here:http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/induction-kits.php

Edited by prolfe
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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure about the drilling holes, does that not mean you're getting 40 degree engine bay air in instead of the 10 degree C air from outside?

Lidls have got a remote thermometer in store just now that you could secure inside the air box and measure temp with holes blocked and unblocked.

Good writeup :thumbup:

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  • 1 month later...

Thought I would post some pics of the Airbox mod i did some time back and more recently added some 3" cold air pipping

Job is not too difficult

To make it easier I would :

Obviously remove airbox asm

Remove headlight and indicator

Remove top battery plastic cover

Make sure you remove the wiring plugs to the headlight and indicator and remember to refit them.

Note if you want to attach a additional 3" hose you will need to mod the front bumper area to allow a good intake of air, as std bumper grills are solid. So consider geting Milotec grills or cut holes into your standard bumper grill inserts.

To mod the airbox you can use a sharp chisel to cut off the high fins and then after that use a stanley knife and finnaly sand paper to clean up the protrusions remaining

Here is the Airbox modded. I did a few extra holes underneath(my choice)

Bottom airbox

th_generalpics015-1.jpg

Top section

th_generalpics016-1.jpg

You will need to modify the bottom hole in airbox to fit a 3" pipping. I widened the top and bottom section to it's max area (before the bottom lip) This was perfect to allow the pipping metal rings to fit either side of the hole.

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean068.jpg

Then I used black mastic(tiger seal) to fill left and right sides of hose in airbox which would of exposed air, then allow to dry over night

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean072.jpg

Hose section attached:

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean039.jpg

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean040.jpg

Also you will need to cut out a triangler section in the right side of the bumper to allow the 3" pipping to go through bumper and sit in that hole.

th_VRSCAIpipefitting028.jpg

With Panel filter fitted

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean041.jpg

Airbox bottom section being installed(you can see the 3" piiping being routed down the side of the battery and down behind headlight and bumper.

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean070.jpg

Pipping routed behind the Light

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean050.jpg

Pipping routed down to bumper grill opening

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean047.jpg

With Milotec Grill fitted

lean055.jpg'>th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean055.jpg

Job Completed

th_VRSAirFilterandthrottlebodyclean059.jpg

A bit off the topic, but your bottom picture 'Job Completed', Have you got a link to the replacement pipe set you used? .. The blue ones obviously going through the recirv valve etc etc

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I'd be wary of having the feed pipe that low with winter coming, if you have to pass a flooded roadway water could enter the filter housing via the pipe, half a cupfull in a cylinder and your engine will hydraulic and you'll be looking for a new one -bent crank or rod through the block etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd be wary of having the feed pipe that low with winter coming, if you have to pass a flooded roadway water could enter the filter housing via the pipe, half a cupfull in a cylinder and your engine will hydraulic and you'll be looking for a new one -bent crank or rod through the block etc.

I see what you are saying but never had issue with water. It first has to travel up the ducting and then through the airfilter. Not much chance of that to be honest. It is no worse than my ABD CAI that has cone filter behind bumper and I have never had issue with that either.

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I see what you are saying but never had issue with water. It first has to travel up the ducting and then through the airfilter. Not much chance of that to be honest. It is no worse than my ABD CAI that has cone filter behind bumper and I have never had issue with that either.

If water gets to the filter box the engine / turbo will suck it up, a CAI is worse IMO.

If you are the sole driver of the car then you can change your route and avoid a flood, but those who car share with a spouse then it could end in tears. VAG fit the pipework higher up for this reason.

If you do this mod just be aware your engine is more vulnerable and avoid floods at all costs, never ever follow another car through, the bow wave behind the car in front would be much higher than standing water.

:)

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  • 2 years later...

Decent mod, did this yesterday with less holes drilled and does seem to respond better at top end rev range and slightly lower intake temps, checked using the torque pro android app.. bring on the frosty mornings :)

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  • 1 year later...

so i ve fitted the pipe in me air box left it hanging down for now till i have the time to fit it to bumper. but is there not a sensor in that part of the bumper???

 

yes that sensor is air temp sensor for climate control. That can stay where it is.  :thumbup:

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  • 4 months later...

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