Thanks you've just cost me more money Is your Octy dropped at all?

Did you make any adjustment with spacers to the fronts?

i have eibach sport kit which drops it 25mm

the front is std.

Edited 1 December, 201015 yr by sprout99

side view attached....it has settled a bit more since ths pic was taken

Looks great certainly nicer from the side view. Presume you purchased bolts to go with the spacers as I cant find any kits including the bolts other than for the 20mm. Also without spacing does the front look level with the back as this would be ideal for me to only change the rears.

Looks great certainly nicer from the side view. Presume you purchased bolts to go with the spacers as I cant find any kits including the bolts other than for the 20mm. Also without spacing does the front look level with the back as this would be ideal for me to only change the rears.

check my ebay link earlier in this post.....bolts came with spacers - £45 + p&p from justwheels on ebay

i only modded back. i thought wheels looked lost in arches.

check my ebay link earlier in this post.....bolts came with spacers - £45 + p&p from justwheels on ebay

i only modded back. i thought wheels looked lost in arches.

Thanks for your help, order placed now...........

Looking to fit 15mm spacers on the rear of my VRS estate and wondering if anyone who has them fitted can let me know in regards to towing and/or a full car if there are problems with the wheels catching the arches?

Ive got 18 zeniths and its dropped approx 30mm on Eibach pro springs.

you need hubcentric ones...i have 15mm on the rear of mine. Nee bother at all. Looks rather wide ass from rear

needed spacers to stop std wheels looking lost in arches after lowering it

^^^^ what he said!

Looking to fit 15mm spacers on the rear of my VRS estate and wondering if anyone who has them fitted can let me know in regards to towing and/or a full car if there are problems with the wheels catching the arches?

Ive got 18 zeniths and its dropped approx 30mm on Eibach pro springs.

I have had mine loaded up and not had any problems with wheels catching arches. That's with Eibach pro springs and koni FSD dampers.

I have had mine loaded up and not had any problems with wheels catching arches. That's with Eibach pro springs and koni FSD dampers.

Cheers for that.

I've got some 15mm hubcentrics on the back of my scout.

I always carry a lot of gear in my boot and over compressions they do bind a little at the point that the bumper meets the arch. This has caused the bumpers to shift in a bit as the metal that the tyre rubs on is the support for the bumper (pics attached)

I think I'll look out for some 10mm instead as I like the look but not keen on the rubbing...

Think i will wait out and get some 10mm ones then as going to be towing and carrying a few loads and really dont want it catching the rear arch.

Interesting. I never caught those bits on mine with 7.5 ET51 and 15mm spacers, no matter what I was carrying.

I've been trying some 5mm spacers on mine recently for caliper clearance and am getting terrible vibration. I'm trying mounting them again tomorrow to see if I can get it better, if not I'll have to go for 10mms on the front, so I'll be at an effective ET33 8J with coilovers wound all the way down - good job I switched to 215 tyres

Actually - anybody want to swap some good quality (e.g. H&R / Eibach) 10mm hubcetric spacers for my 15mm Eibach hubcentrics?

Hubcentric spacers less than 15mm seem hard to come by due to the cracking hub problem mentioned above.

Anybody use anything less than 15mm hubcentric and if so are they ok?

Yea heard a few people on about cracking on the 10mm but if u search on 10mm Audi spacers loads come up. Seems £60 delivered is the cheapest which is more than the 15mm but if I can get the wheels out 10mm with no cracking then il pay that so would love some feedback on someone running them as jonno said above

The whole 'hubcentric' thing does confuse me, can someone please explain why having non-hubcentric spacers would cause vibration? Surely if longer bolts are used and they are snug through the hole in the spacer, and they are sandwiched between the wheel and hub!

Sorry I just don't get it...... :S

I would say as the hubcentric spacer fits perfectly over the lip at the outer edge of the hub it is then central and therefore there will not be a pendulum effect that could be caused if the spacer we slightly off centre. I would guess that if you got the non hubcentric spacer perfectly positioned then it would not be an issue but very difficult when putting a wheel on. Not sure im il be corrected in this one by someone who know the specific science involved.

Edited 5 May, 201115 yr by dainott

With say an 8mm spacer, if the centre hole is 57.1 to match the spigot centre bore, then I really don't see an issue!

With say an 8mm spacer, if the centre hole is 57.1 to match the spigot centre bore, then I really don't see an issue!

Yea agree with that tbh. As long as the spacer is perfectly cemetrical then cant see how it could cause vibration. Must be poorly produced spacers.

Anyone know a good machinist?!

With say an 8mm spacer, if the centre hole is 57.1 to match the spigot centre bore, then I really don't see an issue!

It is hard to explain.

The inner edge of the alloy wheel hub will no longer have a circular rim to fit onto, as the thickness of the spacer pushes the wheel out too far for it to rest on the car's hub, which only protrudes a few mm. Therefore, you are relying on the five bolts to align the centre 'ring' of the wheel with the hub.

Basically, all the weight of the wheel/car is then only supported by the bolts-the wheel itself is not resting on the 'rim' of the hub. Any slight variation or movement of the wheel during fitting results in wobble/vibration.

Hubcentric spacers get around this by providing another 'lip' a few mm thick for the wheel to sit onto. (This is the bit that seems to be cracking on some 10mm spacers.)

Believe me, I tried enough times to get it right & learnt the hard way!

Here you can see the difference-10mm non hubcentric on left, 15mm hubcentric on right.

Right i get it and good explaination fella. Cant understand how they can be cracking on the 10mm ones though and dubious of buying them until i know that they are ok as £60 can be better spent else where if thats the case.

It is hard to explain.

The inner edge of the alloy wheel hub will no longer have a circular rim to fit onto, as the thickness of the spacer pushes the wheel out too far for it to rest on the car's hub, which only protrudes a few mm. Therefore, you are relying on the five bolts to align the centre 'ring' of the wheel with the hub.

Basically, all the weight of the wheel/car is then only supported by the bolts-the wheel itself is not resting on the 'rim' of the hub. Any slight variation or movement of the wheel during fitting results in wobble/vibration.

Hubcentric spacers get around this by providing another 'lip' a few mm thick for the wheel to sit onto. (This is the bit that seems to be cracking on some 10mm spacers.)

Believe me, I tried enough times to get it right & learnt the hard way!

Here you can see the difference-10mm non hubcentric on left, 15mm hubcentric on right.

As Dainott says good explaination however the spigots on my rear hubs protrude about 14mm anyway, the 15mm hubcentric spacers I fitted had the lip but it was only 5-6mm as yours clearly are, so my point is if I were to fit 8mm non-hubcentric spacers with the centre bore correct, the spigot would still sit past these giving the wheel something to locate on?!?!? Wouldn't it?

^didnt think of that Pagey

It still has 6mm to sit and if the replacements are approx 6mm then makes sense.

^didnt think of that Pagey

It still has 6mm to sit and if the replacements are approx 6mm then makes sense.

Perhaps skodaphile can measure his (spacers) and put us out of our misery....!

As Dainott says good explaination however the spigots on my rear hubs protrude about 14mm anyway, the 15mm hubcentric spacers I fitted had the lip but it was only 5-6mm as yours clearly are, so my point is if I were to fit 8mm non-hubcentric spacers with the centre bore correct, the spigot would still sit past these giving the wheel something to locate on?!?!? Wouldn't it?

I can see why you would think that-I thought the same at the time. The problem is the back of the Zenith wheel is chamfered slightly at the hub, meaning they just don't rest on it. As stated at the start of this thread, I started with 9mm universal ones!