I have a 3 year old octy 2 vrs - typically just out of warranty so not covered there. It hasn't put a foot wrong in the three years I've had it - it's only been to the garage for it's services and I haven't even needed a new tyre. 26k on the clock.

The clutch has been fine - haven't even noticed any movement in it at all - it's still smooth with no judder or smell in normal operation. I'm not a clutch-rider either.

Last tuesday I got caught on a steep hill in a queue of traffic in the snow - obviously creeping up the hill in 2nd or third trying not to spin up the wheels.

I was just in the process of pulling off the hill when my clutch complete seized - couldn't get it into gear at all with the engine running. Clutch pedal felt fine - wasn't on the floor or anything and still had good spring in it.

It's finally gone into the garage today, and they have quoted me £1500 for a new clutch - they are claiming that the DMF needs replacing along with both pressure plates, and obviously the friction plates as well.

They've sent me some photos. The friction plates are shredded (as expected) - I was expecting to replace them, but they are also saying the pressure plates and DMF needs replacing - I can see there is some darkening on the metal on the pressure and DMF plates, but I don't know if you'd expect that in normal operation anyway.

Could someone with a bit of know-how tell me if a) 1500 is reasonable for all this, including 5 hours labour (they seemed to get it apart pretty quickly) and do the flywheels and pressure plates really need replacing. They are also saying that the pressure spring in the last photo can't be refitted - but I had good pressure on the pedal - is that the spring that provides that pressure and if so is it likely I need that replacing?

Here's the photos:

They are saying the darkened metal towards the centre of the pressure plate means that it's damaged due to heat - I would have thought 'heat' would be expected around a friction clutch?

Sounds like a perfect opportunity to change from a DMF to a SMF and save some money at the same time.

Check out this recent thread...

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/183324-solid-flywheel-conversion-done-today/

Mike

You have obviously lost a finger off the pressure plate. The diaphragm has probably got a crack in it too. I have seen this a few times - usually the clutch pedal goes heavy and you feel a 'throbbing' through the pedal when its depressed.

To the OP - I think you have had a mechanical failure of the centre plate. Normally a worn out or overheated centre plate looks dark and glazed. Yours has disintegrated. There is some darkening of the pressure plate - but I have seen worse and it is not likely to be the cause of your problems.

Once the transmission is out it is false economy not to change the pressure and centre plates, and the release assembly. The DMF is more debatable, but if the car has go more than about 40k miles on it then replace it.

The DMF is more debatable, but if the car has go more than about 40k miles on it then replace it.

Hauptman, thanks for the advise. the car's only done 26k so don't know what the best thing to do is - haven't had the full quote yet, so depends if the DMF is a large part of the cost.

Obviously getting lots of recommendations for the SMF, but does this have an impact on the higher performance vRS - what is the downside to the solid flywheel (i.e. why did VW go with the DMF in this car?)

Thanks for the advise

Ant

There is supposed to be a fiunger missing on that type of clutch, nothing snapped off its normal. Dont ask me why they do have it missing but they do, seen loads of them.

Hauptman, thanks for the advise. the car's only done 26k so don't know what the best thing to do is - haven't had the full quote yet, so depends if the DMF is a large part of the cost.

Obviously getting lots of recommendations for the SMF, but does this have an impact on the higher performance vRS - what is the downside to the solid flywheel (i.e. why did VW go with the DMF in this car?)

Thanks for the advise

Ant

The main reason for use of a DMF is to isolate the transmission from the engine's torque spikes. This results in less transmission harshness and vibration, but most importantly, protects the geartrain from chatter (which frets the mating surfaces of the gears). VAG didn't spend all that money on a DMF for nothing. DMF/SMF will not have any impact at all on performance.

The main reason for use of a DMF is to isolate the transmission from the engine's torque spikes. This results in less transmission harshness and vibration, but most importantly, protects the geartrain from chatter (which frets the mating surfaces of the gears). VAG didn't spend all that money on a DMF for nothing. DMF/SMF will not have any impact at all on performance.

The thing that puts me off a SMF is what this vibration will do to the gearbox over time.

IMO SMF is ok on a rattly diesel but you would probably notice the rattle on a petrol.

As a guide for you I had bought a sachs uprated clutch for £400 from a group buy and got Euro car parts to beat a quote from another company for the flywheel and slave cylinder, which came in at £213 inc delivery. Fitting was also quoted at around 5 hours.

I checked the wear of the old flywheel to the new one also. The new one had 1.5cogs worth of play forward to back, the old one had 2 cogs worth of play. My car has 97k on it.

Edited 8 December, 201015 yr by martziniuk

The thing that puts me off a SMF is what this vibration will do to the gearbox over time.

Several thousand taxi drivers have had the single system fitted including me, I have done 85,000 so far with the single system.

"Function and Operation

The function of the Dual Mass Flywheels or DMF is to isolate torsion crankshaft spikes created by diesel engines with high compression ratios. By eliminating the torsion spikes, the system eliminates any potential damage to the transmission gear teeth. If the DMF was not used the torsional frequencies could damage to the transmission.

DMFs are designed to provide maximum isolation of the frequency below the engine’s operating RPM, usually between 200-400 RPM. The time that the DMF works hardest is during engine startup and shutdown."