When I turn my ignition off, the central locking locks all the door! It must be something connected with having a ignition switched live, but the Haynes manual suggests that the central locking doesn't have one! (Officially the car radio doesn't either, but mine does!). Does anyone have any ideas why this could be? In all other ways, the central locking works fine just as it has before, with the exception that one door doesn't always lock/unlock, but I think that's just lubrication needed. Would the live feed from the battery being changed to a switched live make it behave like this?

In the recent cold weather I've had problems getting my car started, a drained battery, so had that replaced and a full service as that was due.

To help stop the battery being drained, I had them disconnect an alarm system that had been installed, as I don't have the remotes and thus can't arm/disarm it.

But this has lead to 2 problems:

1) As mentioned above.

2) My radio isn't turning on, I assume that either the switched live or the live is no longer connected to a power source, but I'm fairly confident at fixing that.

There are a few other issues, but they are not as annoying, and should be easy to fix.

I assume something they have done has led to this but would be impossible to prove in order to get them to sort it out unfortunately.

The alarm was no doubt connected up to the central locking and this will have had a lock and unlock wire connected to the central locking wires. I am having difficulty envisioning how this would make the doors lock once the ignition is turned off though, unless perhaps the alarm was wired into the park position on the ignition switch and they have hooked this up to the lock wire on the central locking. However, if this was the case I am sure the constant ground would mean that once you unlocked them they would quickly lock again.

Edited 31 December, 201015 yr by anewman

Cars with a factory-fitted alarm (which I believe the Bohemia was, being a top-spec model) were wired for remote central locking such that arming/disarming the alarm with the remote also locked/unlocked the doors - I'd be 99% certain it's the leftover alarm wiring causing the issue. Similarly for the radio - regular Felicias have no switched live there, but the radio is the accessory loom same as the central locking controller, so I'd guess 'alarm' models may have the live feed switched by the alarm (possibly indeed relating to point 1, now I think of it). There's a couple of folks on here with factory current-flow diagrams who might be able to elaborate on the alarm wiring scheme with a bit of luck.

The alarms were usually Laserline ones, so it may well be still be possible to get replacement remotes from them if not from Skoda (but I can't say for sure). Unless of course your car also has those gorgeous dished 5-spoke alloys, in which case the all the problems are absolutely irreparable and your only reasonable option is to sell it to me for scrap value before it, er, turns into Godzilla and eats us all. Honest

edit: For the sake of competeness, this is the kind of remote of which I speak, but it looks like you'd probably need an alarm specialist or Laserline dealer to get the system working again if you wished to.

Edited 1 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

The alarm is a after-market fitted one, though it appears to be a deal installed VAG system. I even have an instruction card and a little green paper ticket with a code on, I assume the code is for programming new remotes in. I'm not too concered as no-one takes any notice of car alarms around here, and somehow I don't think most people are looking to steal a slightly rusty old Skoda.

The curious thing is that a small addition I wired in to the electrics for mobile phone charging and a few extra cigarette lighter sockets uses a switched live and a relay to avoid draining the battery, and thats working fine, I think I took the switched live from the radio and the permanent live from the main cigarette lighter socket. I suspect it will be the radio permanent live thats not got power but I'm really not sure until I check.

Can someone reveal to me where the central locking control system is, the Haynes manual shows it on the wiring diagram, but nowhere else in the book, I could trace the wire but that seems more complex than needed. The diagrams do show spare terminals carrying a switched live on the ignition switch so I might go so far as to wire to those and know it done 'properly' this time.

RobinSLXi: I fear my car does have alloys, I'll check the number of spokes when I go out to next, and I'll watch out for it turning into Godzilla and eating me.

You'd be glad to know we're safe, my car has 8 spokes on the alloy wheels.

The central locking problem become even more curious, if left locked and the ignition is switched on again, nothing happens, but if it is then switched off it unlocks!

The radio problem seems more complex than it appeared to start with, the main voltages in the ISO connector seem fine.

You'd be glad to know we're safe, my car has 8 spokes on the alloy wheels.

The central locking problem become even more curious, if left locked and the ignition is switched on again, nothing happens, but if it is then switched off it unlocks!

The radio problem seems more complex than it appeared to start with, the main voltages in the ISO connector seem fine.

I've got the orignal instructions and wiring (not Haynes) for installing the Skoda OE central locking kit. When I can get to the scanner (kids are playing games on the PC it's connected to) I'll scan them and upload them.

Alex

I found after a little more searching found these digram in another thread:

sc0001445c.jpg

sc00011433.jpg

These look like they contain more detail than the Haynes manual, but still don't actually give locations on the physical position of the control unit.

The radio is sorted, it's fuse had gone, can't see any reason for it. Currently I've stopped the annoyance of the central locking by taking it's fuse out and disabling central locking completely!

The C/L controller lives behind the instrument panel, although I suspect the problem wiring will be in the engine compartment where the alarm lives. The fact that it will both lock and unlock in this manner is even more intriguing, as those signals are on separate wires. As a first guess, I'd check the lock/unlock wires at the easily accessible point in the passenger footwell where the accessory loom meets the main loom - dig around up behind the radio to find it:

(ignore the radio wiring dangling in the background - a previous owner had removed it, along with various other more important bits of the car)

The yellow and black ones at the end of the connector are for the lock/unlock signals - as standard they don't connect to anything on the other half of the connector, so if there are any wires to these pins on the other connector, disconnecting them should solve the problem (don't disconnect the whole thing, though, as you'll lose power to the C/L and other things like electric mirrors). If that's not the case, then I'd suggest disconnecting the battery, then checking for continuity between here and the old alarm connector, and seeing if there's anything connected at that end that could result in 12V being sent down either wire.

edit: Just to clear up possible confusion, this is actually the connector "close to the ignition switch" the factory literature (including the remote upgrade kit) refers to - that would be true if a LHD dash was fitted

Edited 2 January, 201115 yr by RobinSLXi

(Finally, after getting the kids off, back home and unbreaking the PC...again!)

The OE central locking manual:

It seems to have enjoyed a few adventures from it's original Czech. (I do have the Czech and German versions as well, if anyone's interested )

Alex

<edit: fixed filenames due to album change>

Edited 6 January, 201115 yr by RainbowFore

(Finally, after getting the kids off, back home and unbreaking the PC...again!)

The OE central locking manual:

It seems to have enjoyed a few adventures from it's original Czech. (I do have the Czech and German versions as well, if anyone's interested )

Alex

Arent the back & front doors marked up wrong in that? LOL

Handy thing to have as my Felly has factory plippy locking wired to a Laserline alarm.

Arent the back & front doors marked up wrong in that? LOL

....and there's two left front doors in the text too. (Mounting the cables - Alternative 1)

Good job these things never need to be done in a hurry. ;-)

Alex