Central Locking Problem

[dawpooldad]

Hi,

I'm hoping someone can help me.

Over Christmas, some kindhearted drunken soul (driving a VW Sirroco) took off my drivers door mirror, which was completely disintegrated .

A new unit was ordered and whilst waiting for it to come, the central locking started playing up (Not unlocking, self locking and only able to unlock via the key!)

I figured from looking through the forum that it was a classic case of water ingress, with what was left of the door mirror providing a direct channel into the door.

I blocked off the little hole with blue tack as a temporary measure and waited for the new unit.

The next day, everything was O.K. with the central locking as it was working as it should, but I decided to have a look at the comfort unit when fitting the new mirror.

I removed the door card and checked for water only to find that everything was bone dry! So I fitted the mirror and re-assembled the door.

Two days later, the central locking started playing up again. So, off came the door card immediately and again no water anywhere!

Well, at the moment, the doors wont unlock via the fob, the door locks "blip" but stay closed . The drivers door will unlock with the key and then you can open the rest of the doors with the fob.

Then occasionally all the doors self lock when I'm driving.

So, has anybody had this problem and if so where should I be looking

Thanks in anticipation

Dawpooldad

[KenONeill]

Did you check the door loom connector at the A-post, more or less directly under the mirror gubbins?

[dawpooldad]

Did you check the door loom connector at the A-post, more or less directly under the mirror gubbins?

Hi, yes, thanks to the forum, this was one of the things I checked.

Thanks

Dawpooldad

[rwbaldwin]

Do the doors Lock/Unlock when you press the switch on the panel on the driver's armrest?

[dawpooldad]

Do the doors Lock/Unlock when you press the switch on the panel on the driver's armrest?

Hi, something that I've not checked. Will try tomorrow as I'm in work on nights and the Octavia is at home.

Will it have any significance if it does work on the inside buttons?

Rgds

Dawpooldad

[rwbaldwin]

Hi, something that I've not checked. Will try tomorrow as I'm in work on nights and the Octavia is at home.

Will it have any significance if it does work on the inside buttons?

Rgds

Dawpooldad

Yes. If it works, it shows that the connections between the door controller (the box attached to the window motor) and the CCU (central convenience unit) are OK.

[dawpooldad]

Yes. If it works, it shows that the connections between the door controller (the box attached to the window motor) and the CCU (central convenience unit) are OK.

Hi,

sods law, wifey reports that since yesterday afternoon, no problems!!

I went and checked and it was OK. So back to square one.

I have noticed that the rear washer isn't working, but the pump operates. I think on Saturday, I going to check the tube from the front to back and in the rear door, although there isn't any water coming out of the door, so I don't think that the pipe has come off there.

Rgds

dawpooldad

[dawpooldad]

Hi,

sods law, wifey reports that since yesterday afternoon, no problems!!

I went and checked and it was OK. So back to square one.

I have noticed that the rear washer isn't working, but the pump operates. I think on Saturday, I going to check the tube from the front to back and in the rear door, although there isn't any water coming out of the door, so I don't think that the pipe has come off there.

Rgds

dawpooldad

Hi,

just to let you all know, I've sussed the problem.

As stated in the last post, I traced the washer pipe back from the rear hatch and pulled out the trim from l/h side of the boot. There I found that the washer pipe joint had come adrift, probably due to freezing during the cold weather.

The joint is positioned right over some loom connector units (presumably the boot lock and lighting) and was pouring water directly onto them. The tell tale, was remnants of screen wash in the wheel well in the boot. The connectors had a trace of water, so I dried them out with kitchen roll, plus a gentle application of a hairdryer and reconnected.

I also fitted a cable shroud to the pipe so that water is directed away from the connectors should the pipe part company again.

So ultimately, it was water ingress, but nothing to do with the broken mirror and the drivers door, as originally thought.

It was trawling through the forums that provided enough clues to suss the fault.

My thanks to rwbaldwin and Nen O Neill for their help.

Rgds

dawpooldad

[stevezuki]

Do the doors Lock/Unlock when you press the switch on the panel on the driver's armrest?

just wondering what does it mean if you only get a 'click' from the convenience unit? :S (no doors lock or unlock..)

[KenONeill]

My thanks to rwbaldwin and Nen O Neill for their help.

Rgds

dawpooldad

No problems. Incidentally, if you'd not found it yourself, my next suggestion after you mentioned the failed rear washer would have been the connection you found the problem with.

just wondering what does it mean if you only get a 'click' from the convenience unit? :S (no doors lock or unlock..)

That suggests that the wiring in and out of the driver's door is faulty. Check the mirror and window controls, and if they don't work, check the wiring with a continuity tester.

[stevezuki]

any ideas on what voltage the central locking motors run at? , ive just stripped one down and it seems a simple matter of applying a voltage across two of the pins- then reversing it to lock/ unlock (if that makes sense? ) 12v seems a bit too excessive for it? :S

[dawpooldad]

any ideas on what voltage the central locking motors run at? , ive just stripped one down and it seems a simple matter of applying a voltage across two of the pins- then reversing it to lock/ unlock (if that makes sense? ) 12v seems a bit too excessive for it?

Hi,

according to the Haynes manual, the nominal voltage for all systems is 12v. So unless it is dropped down through any of the control circuits, I would suggest that 12v is O.K.

Rgds

Dawpooldad.

[stevezuki]

Hi,

according to the Haynes manual, the nominal voltage for all systems is 12v. So unless it is dropped down through any of the control circuits, I would suggest that 12v is O.K.

Rgds

Dawpooldad.

cheers yeh- it works on 12v, although it does seem pretty aggressive- the motor goes mad! :S -just thinking if my new convenience unit dosnt solve my central locking woes, im gonna hard wire each central locking unit..

[PCul]

I'm having issues with my drivers door lock not working with the fob and also

the drivers door mirror not moving, i've read through similar posts and it seems

to be pointing at the convenience unit? would i be right in thinking i'll be needing one of these

http://www.theskodashop.co.uk/product/Octavia_A4_%3C06_Front_Window_Regulator_Right_Hand_Electric_1U0837462B

and is this the same as

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130574471380&category=33706&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

[rwbaldwin]

cheers yeh- it works on 12v, although it does seem pretty aggressive- the motor goes mad! :S -just thinking if my new convenience unit dosnt solve my central locking woes, im gonna hard wire each central locking unit..

The control unit for the lock (the box attached to the window motor) provides direction/speed control, deadlock control, current limiting for the motor and interprets the microswitches in the lock. Not easy to hardwire.

[already_1uk]

I just had this issue with my drivers door not working on central locking and that turned out to be the wiring in gaitor the between the door and the a post

[darrylg]

cheers yeh- it works on 12v, although it does seem pretty aggressive- the motor goes mad! -just thinking if my new convenience unit dosnt solve my central locking woes, im gonna hard wire each central locking unit..

Stevezuki, I see you stripped the locking mechanism down, during your work did you find that the 12v current is always flowing into the locking assembly through one/any of the pins in the connector, or is it only getting 12v when signalled to lock/unlock ?

Thanks.

[darrylg]

Stevezuki, I see you stripped the locking mechanism down, during your work did you find that the 12v current is always flowing into the locking assembly through one/any of the pins in the connector, or is it only getting 12v when signalled to lock/unlock ?

Thanks.

OK, I answered this myself, it always gets 12v via the small red/yellow wire which goes from the "A" pillar connector block, through the door wiring loom into the window motor connector block and then finally off to the door locking mechanism.