Fuel pump relay should be just above the brake pedal (I think) been a while since I worked on a petrol engine. Don't currently have access to the Skoda w/shop manuals. Crank sensor (on top of gearbox) fails more often than the cam sensor. Nasty habit of not throwing out a code either.

Ok, thanks for that Moggy.

Have just changed the spark plugs since the old ones looked a little worn when I inspected them.]

Guess what, it's behaving itself again!

I think all I have to do is open the bonnet, swear at it some then slam the bonnet shut again.

By doing this I'm psyching out the ECU and fooling it into believing I've just fixed it again.

Talk about idiosyncratic!

Now all I need is an FMIC the size of the front airdam, 24" alloys, the brakes from an Audi R8 and a girlfriend

Now all I need is an FMIC the size of the front airdam, 24" alloys, the brakes from an Audi R8 and a girlfriend

Well you know what they say. "If it's got boobs or wheels it will cause you problems."

Sorry to the ladies on here, only a joke, HONEST...

Think its been mentioned already, but in truth it does sound like the crank position sensor as heat affects them when they are on the way out. (cold all ok, warm hot: running issues + non start) hope this helps.

My independent VW garage uses the same oil for diesel and petrol cars, believe it is Quantum 5w30 or 10w40 or there abouts. My AUB engine runs a lot better for it. Glad the original poster has made some progress.

Hi all,

 

My skoda fabia (aub engine 16v, 1.4 , 74 kw) behaves exactly the way is described here. When the engine is cold (about -7 degrees outside) the engine starts but after ,after 10 seconds will stall (well "dies").  But if i keep the engine at about 2000 rpm for few seconds and i'm not letting to stall it will run fine. Probably until the engine warms up a little. This started a week ago, but now it's harder to keep it away from stalling when starting it cold. if a drive it for few km. no problem it won't stall while idling. However i noticed that the idling rpm speed increased a little bit about 1100 rpm.

 

I bought this car a year ago, right after buying it i changed the oil, oil filter and air filter. I used Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w40 oil. After 6 months while on a long jurney the warning light came on. I stopped at the nearest gas station and after checking i was stoned thet almost no oil left. And the only oil that i could by there was 15w40. So i was driving with this oil until now.

 

And the same, the temperature indicator rarely  shoes 12 o'clock. Usually wont rise. But depends... yesterday worked fine.

 

My question is, What should i replace first the thermostat or the sender for coolant temperature?

 

And where is the thermostat i can't locate it on the engine.

 

I already changed the spark plugs. And before that on the vag reader i had these errors:

 

16684 Combustion misfiring

detected

 

16685 Cylinder 1 Combustion misfiring

detected

 

16688 Combustion misfiring

detected ( cyl. 4)

 

16785 Exhaust gas recirculation

system1)   Flow rate too low

 

17586 

Linear lambda probe/pump

current1)    Open circuit

 

18057 

Data BUS drive 

Missing message from

ABS CU     

 

17604 

Bank 1, probe 1, heating

circuit1)    Electrical fault     ....... Testing lambda probe heater upstream of catalytic

converter ? Chapter 24-4

 

17589 Linear lambda probe/reference

voltage1) 

 

17953 Throttle valve control   .... Malfunction

 

at SRS: 00532 

 

and at ABS: 65535

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank's!

I would replace both the thermostat and the CTS since they're both quite cheap.

 

Thermostat is low down between the battery box and the engine right next to the gear linkage, a pig to get at.

 

Once you've changed them clear the fault codes and reset the ECU to default map before taking the car for a good half hour run.

Thank You!

 

I'ma about to change the thermostat today and i would like to know what do you mean by "reset the ECU to default map"?

 

I will let you know how will work afterwards.

 

Already cleared the rest of the errors after changing spark plugs and only 3 of  came back:

 

17589

17604

17586

 

It's a slight difference between the behaviors, as mine doesn't stall when hot, i mean never gets hot enough because of the thermostat. An one warmed up it works like a charm.  But maybe it will if i won't fix it.

 

And yours how does it run know? with the colder weather?

 

Strange thing happened the other day... i was at a local car part shop where the owner has a few decades of experience in repairing and i told him about the car and he said that a senzor(sender) needs to be replaced ....well probably if i buy it from him he will tell me. I'm thinking that after changing the thermostat and measuring, testing the coolant temperature sender i will buy it..... about 35 euros but it's better than a service garage ho will charge me just to diagnose the car 20 euro's. I have an error reader, he has a tester but the error codes are the same. I hope will be able to avoid service garage.

Thank You!

 

I'ma about to change the thermostat today and i would like to know what do you mean by "reset the ECU to default map"?

 

I will let you know how will work afterwards.

 

Already cleared the rest of the errors after changing spark plugs and only 3 of  came back:

 

17589

17604

17586

 

It's a slight difference between the behaviors, as mine doesn't stall when hot, i mean never gets hot enough because of the thermostat. An one warmed up it works like a charm.  But maybe it will if i won't fix it.

 

And yours how does it run know? with the colder weather?

 

Strange thing happened the other day... i was at a local car part shop where the owner has a few decades of experience in repairing and i told him about the car and he said that a senzor(sender) needs to be replaced ....well probably if i buy it from him he will tell me. I'm thinking that after changing the thermostat and measuring, testing the coolant temperature sender i will buy it..... about 35 euros but it's better than a service garage ho will charge me just to diagnose the car 20 euro's. I have an error reader, he has a tester but the error codes are the same. I hope will be able to avoid service garage.

You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery terminals and touching them together for a minute, then reconnect the battery and take the car for a good half-hour drive.

 

The codes you show appear to relate to the code group for the Lambda probe, since you have been burning oil this probably means the probe is fouled and it may clear when you drive it on a longer run after resetting the ECU, you need to take it for a motorway run so the probe and cat will get nice and hot.

 

Funnily enough my car has started playing up again since it got cold so I'm just about to go and buy a new CTS since it's three years old now. My car is difficult to start and runs badly below 2500 RPM when warmed up but is perfect when cold, I had a problem with the coilpack connector not latching properly but a zip tie cured that.

 

I have found that plug leads only last two years and I use NGK Iridium spark plugs which also last two years rather than standard plugs which only last a year.