hi i am posting here to maybe get some info on this very irritating car - i was on my drive working on my bike in the sun when a neighbour walked over and ask would i rescue his sons car from the next town away so i jumped in my car towed it back home and began to investigate what was occuring as the ignition was dead totally it was not firing but turning over normally on the key so far i have replaced the hall sensor ( crankcase sensor ) the distributor cap and rotor arm - new HT leads and new plugs - still dead so we decided to buy an Unlocked ECU as a ''plug and play '' - but only thing this has achieved is that we now have a spark to the king lead out of the coil - but not 1 HT lead has a spark being delivered to the pots i have since had an auto electrician come put a mobile tester on the car and it showed that there was a problem with the hall sensor and a wiring fault so those codes were set as corrected

i am totally baffled by the fact it has a good spark at the king lead yet i have no supply of any ignition to the HT leads

would really appreciate it if any reader of these boards has ever come across this before - timing is spot on the timing marks are setting up to TDC when the rotor matches the milling mark for number 1 cylinder - has only been checked by eye - but seems spot on

his car is the Skoda Felicia 1.3 GLXi 1984 - N reg

any help would be greatful for as this car has me totally baffled as to why its not firing at the pots

Edited 23 April, 201115 yr by popeyedoyle

hi i am posting here to maybe get some info on this very irritating car - i was on my drive working on my bike in the sun when a neighbour walked over and ask would i rescue his sons car from the next town away so i jumped in my car towed it back home and began to investigate what was occuring as the ignition was dead totally it was not firing but turning over normally on the key so far i have replaced the hall sensor ( crankcase sensor ) the distributor cap and rotor arm - new HT leads and new plugs - still dead so we decided to buy an Unlocked ECU as a ''plug and play '' - but only thing this has achieved is that we now have a spark to the king lead out of the coil - but not 1 HT lead has a spark being delivered to the pots i have since had an auto electrician come put a mobile tester on the car and it showed that there was a problem with the hall sensor and a wiring fault so those codes were set as corrected

i am totally baffled by the fact it has a good spark at the king lead yet i have no supply of any ignition to the HT leads

would really appreciate it if any reader of these boards has ever come across this before - timing is spot on the timing marks are setting up to TDC when the rotor matches the milling mark for number 1 cylinder - has only been checked by eye - but seems spot on

his car is the Skoda Felicia 1.3 GLXi 1994 - N reg

any help would be greatful for as this car has me totally baffled as to why its not firing at the pots

Edited 23 April, 201115 yr by popeyedoyle

It will be a 1995/6 mate as 94 was L/M... Could be a distributor fault, or the immobiliser is goosed, or the coil not kicking out a strong enough spark?

forgot to say car was starting and running perfectly before he stopped at a friends house to have a coffee - also forgot that the coil also was swapped for a replacement part off a working car

It will be a 1995/6 mate as 94 was L/M... Could be a distributor fault, or the immobiliser is goosed, or the coil not kicking out a strong enough spark?

the ECU is unlocked so has no immobilizer activated on the car now so cannot see that will be the problem here - as for distributor it turns clockwise as it should with the cap removed the rotor can be seen spinning clockwise as it should its as basic as they come no electrics connected to them and the diszzy only really has the rotor arm and cap that can go wrong and both have been renewed as well as the leads

You checked all the earths? Just a thought. There is also the possibility you may even have fitted faulty parts. You never know. Even brand new off the shelf bits can turn out to be duds. You may need to give the local sparky a bell again. Surprised me that he didn't get it going.

You checked all the earths? Just a thought. There is also the possibility you may even have fitted faulty parts. You never know. Even brand new off the shelf bits can turn out to be duds. You may need to give the local sparky a bell again. Surprised me that he didn't get it going.

the starter earth lead the crank sensor earth point the 4 yellow earthing points to the clutch mounting all been wire brushed cleaned thoroughly and copper greased to ensure good connections any other points i should be looking at for causing bad earth spots on this car ?

the starter motor earthing points the crankcase sensor earthing point and the 4 yellow earthing points to the clutch cable mounting have all been wire brushed cleaned thoroughly and copper greased to ensure good earthing connection is achieved - are there any other problem points of earthing i should be looking at?

I also had another thought, is it the right ECU? If its an ECU for an MPi you have fitted, no matter what you do, it wont fire up. It does however sound like you have possibly fitted some faulty parts along the way. Get an auto electrician to give you a hand, otherwise you will probably be going round & round in circles and get nowhere.

I also had another thought, is it the right ECU? If its an ECU for an MPi you have fitted, no matter what you do, it wont fire up. It does however sound like you have possibly fitted some faulty parts along the way. Get an auto electrician to give you a hand, otherwise you will probably be going round & round in circles and get nowhere.

ECU that was fitted as unlocked was identical to original part number 0261 203 964 - 441 0 4046 028 6 - i was aware that it had to be identical original bosch ECU and it was supplied by ECU express that deal purely on ECU's so i am not contemplating that there is any issue raising fault with what is now fitted

i am thinking maybe to buy a brand new coil - even though the coil fitted is giving a spark on the tester i am thinking maybe its just not supplying the initial umph that it should - so that will be my next point of call on tuesday at the auto factors to go buy a brand new coil and see if that then gives the car a boost of life and hopefully get it running again - its the most annoying problem i have come across the fact that it has ignition but only as supply from the coil to king pin lead - and all the HT leads are dead as a donkey - the dizzy been cleaned and lubricated with copper grease on the upper shaft above the oil seal new rotor arm new dizzy cap new leads and plugs all fitted

if after fitting a brand new coil it still fails to come to life i am then in despair!!

i will post again tuesday or wednesday and hopefully it is by then running again

fitted and first turn of the key sparked up and running sweet as a nut

all that for an item that cost £18 plus vat!!!!

well at least now he may have many years worth of trouble free ignition problems

hi. i was wondering if you would be able to give me any tips on how to diagnose whether or not it is the immobiliser that is causing my car to cutt out after about 3 seconds? and how i could fix it if it is the immobiliser? i have checked the fuel pump, changed the filter & checked relays.