Did you give the turbo a good run in period for all the bearings etc to loosen up themselves? Ie not driving to hard for 500 to 1000 miles? Doubt this caused it either but will def help in the long run. Im starting to think its pure chance, no related codes, no leaks everything is as it shud, id start thinking about quality of turbo?

Well I've just took it for a run out for a couple of hours after re-fitting the recon turbo, no hard driving etc but its got the same symptoms as it had before it blew last time, very faint whine in first and second gear (so basically when the turbo is working harder than any other time) so I am now giving up. Im just going to run it till it blows again and then leave it to sit and rot because I cant keep sinking money into it :(

As for your question, the first time i fitted it I didnt really give it a run in period, just the idling with no revving for the first few minutes after fitting it as recommended by the suppliers.

I would be happy if it just lasted me another 2 years as thats when the finance is paid off

Turbo's do whine anyways?

Just shows there working well

Its when they sound like a police siren you need to worry

Just take it easy and see how it goes

Turbo's do whine anyways?

Just shows there working well

Mine's been doing that for the 3 years that I've owned it...

Turbo's do whine anyways?

Just shows there working well

Its when they sound like a police siren you need to worry

Just take it easy and see how it goes

Thats the problem though, with my last turbo that was fitted for 3 or 4 weeks it started off with the quiet whine which then turned into the siren noise you are talking about. Suppose I may just be thinking the worst after what happened with the last one. I will just wait and see but it's just frustrating that I can't pin point whats causing it.

Have you checked the inlet side of the turbo? Any restriction/blockage will mean the turbo will have to spin faster to make the same boost.

Also, turbos don't need running in - they are run up to full speed at the factory. What is critically important is that they are primed with oil before first start up.

Did you change the oil after the last turbo died?

Is it a garrett unit that failed?

Have you checked the inlet side of the turbo? Any restriction/blockage will mean the turbo will have to spin faster to make the same boost.

Also, turbos don't need running in - they are run up to full speed at the factory. What is critically important is that they are primed with oil before first start up.

Did you change the oil after the last turbo died?

Is it a garrett unit that failed?

Hi mate, It's a Borg Warner KKK turbo, I drained the oil and used an oil treatment before hand in order to clear any ****e out of there and after fitting the new turbo fitted a new oil filter and filled with fresh oil, then it was cranked over while I held the turbo shaft still until the oil came through the outlet at the bottom of the turbo signifying oil was through to the turbo. So basically fitted as the instructions suggest.

As far as a blockage inlet side, I have had the inlet manifold off and cleaned it out with carb cleaner and likewise with the IC pipes and the IC itself so im really at a loose end to be honest mate. Might be a case of saving up the hard earned and taking it into a turbo specialist eventually :wonder:

Hi mate, It's a Borg Warner KKK turbo, I drained the oil and used an oil treatment before hand in order to clear any ****e out of there and after fitting the new turbo fitted a new oil filter and filled with fresh oil, then it was cranked over while I held the turbo shaft still until the oil came through the outlet at the bottom of the turbo signifying oil was through to the turbo. So basically fitted as the instructions suggest.

As far as a blockage inlet side, I have had the inlet manifold off and cleaned it out with carb cleaner and likewise with the IC pipes and the IC itself so im really at a loose end to be honest mate. Might be a case of saving up the hard earned and taking it into a turbo specialist eventually :wonder:

Sounds like you did everything right when you fitted it. Turbo failure is usually oil related or when the unit is operated outside of its working envelope.

It might be worth piping in a boost gauge to see whats happening. Im new to the PD engine so i dont know what boost pressure it should be running but im sure someone on here will know. I would expect the ECU to pick up if its massively overboosting.

On the inlet side even a badly blocked air filter can cause an overspeed.

Sounds like you did everything right when you fitted it. Turbo failure is usually oil related or when the unit is operated outside of its working envelope.

It might be worth piping in a boost gauge to see whats happening. Im new to the PD engine so i dont know what boost pressure it should be running but im sure someone on here will know. I would expect the ECU to pick up if its massively overboosting.

On the inlet side even a badly blocked air filter can cause an overspeed.

I think I might stick my old induction kit back on then lol. You read my mind with the boost guage, I ordered one last night!

how do you prime the turbo with oil? is this only needed after an oil change? or on every start up? the turbo is very hard to reach on these is it not? how did you get to the shaft? and are the pipes see through to see the oil going to it?

i suppose the split second or two that no oil is going through it on start up or after an oil change wont do any harm i wouldnt think?

how do you prime the turbo with oil? is this only needed after an oil change? or on every start up? the turbo is very hard to reach on these is it not? how did you get to the shaft? and are the pipes see through to see the oil going to it?

To prime with oil I first had to starve the engine of diesel (so it didn't start when it was cranked over), then when I had fitted the turbo I connected the oil feed pipe to it but left the oil drain pipe disconnected from the engine, then I held the turbo shaft to stop it spinning while someone else cranked the engine over until oil came out the drain pipe, signifying oil was through the turbo. All in all replacing a turbo on one of these is rather awkward mainly due to lack of space but I have the right tools for it so it's not that bad swapping a turbo and you do have a fair bit of room once the driveshaft and exhaust are out the way.

The turbo only needs priming with oil when you remove and refit a new turbo as it will be dry, it doesnt need doing at any other time (like after an oil change) but if you don't prime a new turbo with oil then yes it is extremely bad on the turbo as the shaft is spinning dry which will destroy the lifespan of the turbo...im talking from experience

Sorry in answer to your other two questions, the pipes aren't clear they are aluminium and I got to the shaft because the exhaust hadn't been refitted so I held it through the exhaust side of the turbo

Im wondering If I should do a full guide on changing a BLT turbo seeing as I have removed and refitted mine 4 times??

Edited 17 May, 201115 yr by PoloGTTDi

Go for it would be a great help I had a new turbo.fitted to my car a 71000 just under 10000 ago so.i.hope that skoda primed it,.i doubt it tho :(

Go for it would be a great help I had a new turbo.fitted to my car a 71000 just under 10000 ago so.i.hope that skoda primed it,.i doubt it tho :(

me too lol!

useless... you probably got an apprentice on a Friday doing yours and leaving oil stains on the seats

leather seats so no oil stains im afraid lol :p