I have recently had a towbar fitted to Elsie the Helipad and I tried out the electrics at the weekend.

I did NOT hitch up the caravan, but I did connect both the 12S & 12N to my converter cable that was plugged into my 13pin electrics at the back of the car.

All the lights worked fine. When you lock the car the caravan indicators flash in time with the car to say that the alarm is armed.

All good so far.

Tried the fridge. apart from a dicky switch on the fridge, it was getting power from the car.

I could not turn on any lights in the caravan. It seems that there is no constant power feed to the caravan, with or without the ignition on. Not good.

I then tried reverse. No graphic on screen...Not good again.

Then I sat in the car and tried the indicators. Not extra flash or beep to let me know there was a trailer attached. (OK the trailer wasn't 'attached' but it was plugged in.) ....Not good.

Now, should the above all work regardless of whether it is physically hitched up? or is there a problem with the coding?

Mike

I would have thought Mike, that things like lights and the fridge would work but not internal lights due to the fact that people are not allowed to travel in the caravan while it's in transit.

No idea about the beeping stuff sorry. :(

Mike

2 things

• Don't think you'll get a 'beep' from the indicators' but you will get a bulb out warning if they're not working?
• Does the Trailer show on the Columbus - and are the parking sensors disabled?

If so then I think all's well?

I have recently had a towbar fitted to Elsie the Helipad and I tried out the electrics at the weekend.

I did NOT hitch up the caravan, but I did connect both the 12S & 12N to my converter cable that was plugged into my 13pin electrics at the back of the car.

All the lights worked fine. When you lock the car the caravan indicators flash in time with the car to say that the alarm is armed.

All good so far.

Tried the fridge. apart from a dicky switch on the fridge, it was getting power from the car.

I could not turn on any lights in the caravan. It seems that there is no constant power feed to the caravan, with or without the ignition on. Not good. My Octavia doesn't provide power to run the lights (as far as I am aware but it does run the fridge)

I then tried reverse. No graphic on screen...Not good again. I get a graphic on my Stream HU, however I didn't pay the extra to disable parking sensors when connected, could this be the problem with the display?

Then I sat in the car and tried the indicators. Not extra flash or beep to let me know there was a trailer attached. (OK the trailer wasn't 'attached' but it was plugged in.) ....Not good. It should either beep or you should have an extra light on your dash to show you your caravan is attached.

Now, should the above all work regardless of whether it is physically hitched up? or is there a problem with the coding? I don't see how phycally connecting the caravan to the towing hitch would make the slightest but of difference, mine works fine without being hitched up

Mike

Mike,

I know I don't have a Yeti but I can't imagine they inner workings are that much different when it comes to towing electrics

Matthew

The absence of a graphic on the screen when in reverse indicates "download" needed.

Caravan interior lights should NOT work when the car is plugged in and the engine running (ignition switched power)

Indicators - law says you should have a means of telling if they are NOT working - try taking a bulb out of the trailer, you will find that the arrow on the dash blinks faster, and a warning comes up on the maxidot, but very cleverly the indicators on the car flash at the normal rate !!

Reverse picture SHOULD show - usual photo but with a trailer attached !! - needs coding properly !! Find somebody with a VAGCOM off this site..

Mike,

1/ The lack of a permanent power feed to the internal van electrics is now the normal situation.

2/ Rear graphic display should show the the trailer, so this suggests that the coding hasn't been done correctly.

3/ Millstone is correct, the law requires that you only need to know if there is a trailer light out. From experience I can tell you that the system works!!

Mike,

1/ The lack of a permanent power feed to the internal van electrics is now the normal situation.

2/ Rear graphic display should show the the trailer, so this suggests that the coding hasn't been done correctly.

3/ Millstone is correct, the law requires that you only need to know if there is a trailer light out. From experience I can tell you that the system works!!

Thanks all.

It's going back for recoding next week.

Thats a shame about the electrics, so if my caravan battery dies, then I can't run any lights in the caravan by using power from the car?

Mike

Mike,

1/ The lack of a permanent power feed to the internal van electrics is now the normal situation.

If the 13 pin socket on the Yeti is fully wired pin 9 (2.5mm Orange wire) should be the permanent live, but if the fitter has not put the full kit on then it won't work!! see this.. http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Caravan_13pin_Wiring_Diagram.html

What it should do is provide power to the caravan until you start the engine, then it should cut off the internal electrics and just charge the caravan battery.

You will also find that it will be linked to the car alarm. Plug the caravan in and then lock the car (setting the alarm) if you then unplug the caravan the car alarm should sound !!

Mike,

3/ Millstone is correct, the law requires that you only need to know if there is a trailer light out. From experience I can tell you that the system works!!

As an aside to this, I have a small trailer which has LED lights and indicators, problem is they have almost no resistance (electrical) so the Yeti keeps telling me I have a bulb out on the trailer after about the third flash !!

I know you can get resistor kits for LEDs - I will have to investigate..

If the 13 pin socket on the Yeti is fully wired pin 9 (2.5mm Orange wire) should be the permanent live, but if the fitter has not put the full kit on then it won't work!! see this.. http://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/Caravan_13pin_Wiring_Diagram.html

What it should do is provide power to the caravan until you start the engine, then it should cut off the internal electrics and just charge the caravan battery.

You will also find that it will be linked to the car alarm. Plug the caravan in and then lock the car (setting the alarm) if you then unplug the caravan the car alarm should sound !!

However, some modern caravans don't have the relevant connections either!

I can confirm the alarm works!!

If the 13 pin socket on the Yeti is fully wired pin 9 (2.5mm Orange wire) should be the permanent live, but if the fitter has not put the full kit on then it won't work!! see this.. http://www.westernto...ng_Diagram.html

What it should do is provide power to the caravan until you start the engine, then it should cut off the internal electrics and just charge the caravan battery.

You will also find that it will be linked to the car alarm. Plug the caravan in and then lock the car (setting the alarm) if you then unplug the caravan the car alarm should sound !!

That is what I'm hoping.

I'm using this lead My link which I bought from them. I hope my dealer did fit that cable - I did ask for it.....

BTW, the wiring diagram is for the EXL7. The website is wrong, but the wiring diagram is right, just has the wrong part no on it. I talked to them about it.

Mike

You can also switch the car's lights on and then the rear fogs. The car's fog should not come on when the software has been done - only the trailer fog should work. Furthermore if you lock the car and give it a few minutes (just to arm itself) the alarm should sound if you pull the connector out.

Mine is in as we speak to have the software programmed... I hope they know what they're doing!

Mine is in as we speak to have the software programmed... I hope they know what they're doing!

I do hope so.....Elsie the Helipad is going in next tuesday for the reprogramming.