Hi all,

Having fixed my clutch problem, I now have one to sort out with the central locking.

If I use the key in the drivers door lock, all the doors lock and unlock although the red LED on the drivers door does not come on. If I use the key in the tailgate lock, only three doors (and the tail gate) unlock. The drivers door will not respond at all.

Also, if I sit in the car and press the lock and unlock buttons on the drivers door handle, the three other doors and the tailgate lock and unlock but nothing happens to the drivers door.

After reading about problems with the door lock motor or the control module incorporated into the window motor, I have changed both of these items in the drivers door but still the problem persists.

I have scanned the car with VAGcom and have the following fault codes from the central convenience module. No other codes from any of the other modules on the car....

Control Module Part Number: 1J0 959 799 Q

Component and/or Version: 5S Zentral-SG Komf. 0001

Software Coding: 04097

Work Shop Code: WSC 31480

Additional Info: 1U6959802B 5H Tõrsteuerger. FS0002r

Additional Info: 1U6959801B 5S Tõrsteuerger. BF0001r

Additional Info: 1U0959811B 5S Tõrsteuerger. HL0001r

Additional Info: 1U0959812B 5S Tõrsteuerger. HR0001r

2 Faults Found:

00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220)

27-00 - Implausible Signal

00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Rear Left (F222)

27-00 - Implausible Signal

It looks like I have an issue with the rear left module although it seems to lock and unlock OK.

Please could anybody give me any ideas on what is wrong and what to check next. Its been fairly pricey replacing the two modules so far (with good known working second hand units). The wiring connector to the window motor in the drivers door is perfectly clean and dry with no rusty or damaged pins so I dont believe any water has got into the wiring loom.

Could it possibly be a fault with the central convenience module?

Many thanks in advance

Julian

Edited 11 June, 201115 yr by julesandtash

I'll follow this with interest. I've got exactly the same issue, but don't have access to any diagnostic equipment. I've changed most of the bits that are the first port of call, with no success. If you solve it, I'd like to know how as the next thing for me to do is hand the car over to Skoda and pay them muchos pasos for the pleasure.

I would check the loom where it passes between the door and the car for breaks in the wiring if you have already placed units in the two doors....

Given that the lock/unlock buttons on the driver's armrest are working, the CCU and the communication between the CCU and the driver's door module are OK.

Have you checked the connections at the base of the A pillar (behind the trim)?

Given that the lock/unlock buttons on the driver's armrest are working, the CCU and the communication between the CCU and the driver's door module are OK.

Have you checked the connections at the base of the A pillar (behind the trim)?

No, I haven't pulled that panel off - what connections are down there? I presume its the drivers side A pillar that I need to look at?

Well I did some work on the rear left door today as a replacement window mechanism and motor turned up to replace the existing one with its shredded cable and broken plastic clip.

I fitted it but there was just a click from the window motor (sounded like a relay) but no turning.

A pit of poking around on the multiplug with a meter discovered the problem there.

There should be two 12V feeds to the plug (one thick red/brown wire and a thinner red/yellow wire). The red/brown (thicker of the two feeds) was open circuit. A bit of poking around discovered that it was broken in the flexible bit of loom between the door and the B pillar.

I repaired the broken wire (and another that was on its way out) and hey presto - window motor works.

Unfortunately I am still having the same issues and same fault codes with the central locking.

I will have a check of the power feeds to the front drivers side module tomorrow - I suspect that I will find there is no power on the the thinner 12V feed.

Having done a lot of unpicking of the door looms and looking at wiring diagrams, it seems that the door modules (window motor and lock controller) is only fed by five wires - 2 * 12V feeds, one ground and a twisted pair for the CAN bus. All the other wires in the plug just go to the window switch, lock mechanism and, in the case of the drivers door, the window/locking control switches.

Therefore I figure that if the CAN bus is working - and it must be on the drivers door since the window and control switches are working, then the only option can be a lacking power feed.

Tomorrow will tell if I am right or not - if I am then I will have a lock mechanism and window motor for sale on eBay as the ones I bought as replacements will not be needed.

Edited 10 June, 201115 yr by julesandtash

Well I have now fixed it - my assumption was correct.

A check of the pins in the multi-connector on the drivers door identified that the there was 12V (well closer to 14 but battery voltage anyway) on the big thick red/brown wire and the brown was grounded but there was nothing on the red/yellow wire.

A bit of unpicking and pulling of the red/yellow and it slid out of the loom to expose its broken and corroded end.

Removing the A pillar trim (the one that the bonnet release catch is attached to) exposed the wiring connector for the door feeds as suggested by another member in this thread. Some poking with the meter showed battery voltage at the red/brown and red/yellow wires so power was getting that far.

A quick repair of the red/yellow wire and the door bits and bobs connected back up and hey presto - all working

As an added bonus, my electric mirror switch was not working correctly, it would control the left mirror only, whether the switch was set to right or left. Now, with the wire fixed, the switch works perfectly too.

It appears that the insulation on the wires is quite thing and fairly brittle. Repeated flexing (as in the flexy bit of loom between the car and the door) seems to crack the insulation which then allows mositure into the cracked area and starts corroding the copper till it breaks.

I am very tempted to replace all the sections of wire between the car body and door innards with some good quality flexible stuff to prevent further problems.

Of course, the down side is that I now have a drivers door lock mechanism and window motor for a 1999 Octavia 1 going spare as there was nothing wrong with them.

So my advice, if you get a locking or window problem, check the small looms from the car to the door first (they run through the convoluted rubber gaiters).

All four are easy to access - the rear two just plug into the B pillar (plug is behind the gaiter on the B pillar, just prise the rubber away and you will see it. The fronts are down behind the A pillar trims, the loom runs from the rubber gaiter downwards being some steel and then pops out to connect to the wiring plug.

GGood advice. Thanks.

ive exactly the same prob and i mean exactly the same..i will try what you suggested when it decides to stop raining!!

Good luck, I hope you fix it. It would be good to know if it does.

Thanks Julesandtash, you guided me to the exact same problem with my 2002 l and k octavia. The red/yellow wire did not have 12V at the door window motor module (the plug was hard to get off until I realised there was a locking slider on it, pull the bottom part of the plug to the right!)and when I unpicked the loom at the door hinge I found the break in the red/yellow wire. By passing the break fixed the problem, however the red led on the drivers door no longer flashes. I suspect I may have damaged it taking the door card off....... Job for warmer months I think.

 I just thought I would share my experience on this problem I have been having the exact same problems as everyone in the other posts and it was driving me mad.Finally it was the reference to the red and yellow wire that gave me the help I needed. I had checked the wire along its whole length and found no problems. Unlike others my problem wasn't where the cables pssed through the A frame or from rubbing in the bottom of the door it was where the wire connected to the pin connector in the multi plug.Everything looked fine but the piece in the multiplug itself had totally rusted away. New loom I'm afraid but it solved the problem.

Between us it looks like we're winning the war with central locking issues! Nice work. Always start with checking the basics first, could save a fortune.