Right, **** hit fan yesterday, the Vrs outer CV Boot has split and is making a horrid knocking sound so going to ring Skoda today and get a replacement CV kit.

Has anyone done one of these before?

Is it possible to just break the bottom Ball joint and the Track rod end leaving the shock attached and pull the hub out of the way to get the driveshaft out........ or is it worth me completly removing the hub to knock the CV joint off?

If so does anyone know where to get the hub seperator tool for opening the hub up to get the shock out? the socket style one???

Pref somewhere that does M14 spline bits aswell

Lucky i have the jetta to drive :p

Depends how hard the drive shaft is stuck in the wheel bearing. Hub spreader, tool, use a crow bar or similar. Easiest way for access, is to remove the drive shaft completely.

i can imagine that is the easyest way, just may mean more of a strip down than i hoped, Having to use the Mk2 Jetta this week becuase of it.

If access is tight i will try takeing the Hub and front shock off in one piece that should give me enough clearance and no need to jam something in the hub

on the + side GSF can get the part in for tomorrow, collect sat morning, fit sat daytime, one working Vrs again.

Its nice to not get ripped off by garage labour rates few years ago i wouldent of even attempted it

Can't remember if you'd need to remove track rod end, just the bottom ball joint I think(I may be wrong though). I removed my RH driveshaft last year changing the turbo. Pretty sure just removing the ball joint will allow the suspension upright to swing out enough for you to remove the CV joint. Don't forget you'll need a big socket and torque wrench, and a new nut for the CV joint(I guess it'll be in the kit). Loosen the nut till it's nearly off, then give it a tap with a copper mallet(being careful not to damage the threads, although if you're replacing it I guess it doesn't matter) and it should just pop out of the hub.... well OK, mine did! :-) Not sure how it fits to the drive shaft as I didn't have to remove mine, but it's usually just a circlip(underneath all the grease and goo :-))

Good luck mate

Can't remember if you'd need to remove track rod end, just the bottom ball joint I think(I may be wrong though). I removed my RH driveshaft last year changing the turbo. Pretty sure just removing the ball joint will allow the suspension upright to swing out enough for you to remove the CV joint. Don't forget you'll need a big socket and torque wrench, and a new nut for the CV joint(I guess it'll be in the kit). Loosen the nut till it's nearly off, then give it a tap with a copper mallet(being careful not to damage the threads, although if you're replacing it I guess it doesn't matter) and it should just pop out of the hub.... well OK, mine did! :-) Not sure how it fits to the drive shaft as I didn't have to remove mine, but it's usually just a circlip(underneath all the grease and goo :-))

Good luck mate

Its not too much of a problem if it is stuck, my house mate has a hub puller so can use that.

intresting if i only have to do the ball joint... yea they normally have an internal clip. remove the boot and a short sharp thump should get it off :p then its tapping the new one on.

this is an uber PITA i wanted a Lazy sat this week, but looks like im working on the None Projcet car.

Might get the GF to take photos while im doing it and do a little write up as by the looks of things its a little common.

Easy mate, just done my cv joint, you need to detach the lower arm ball joint from the wheel bearing housing (hub), and removed the track rod from it aswell, as you ritey said, then u need to remove the hub nut with a 12 point 36mm socket (these nuts are one-time-fit because the little lugs on them bend although a good smear of locktight will hold her in). Then if u can using the right tool you need to press the drive shaft out of the hub assembly, then you can push the drive shaft to one side and snip the the boot off (be careful not let the driveshaft drop down too far as this will damage the inner cv joint, a cable will do to hold it up), then u can actually knock the cv joint off the shaft if u give it one time with a nylon hammer, then rebuild it all up and torque the hub nut up to 120nm job done.....oh and use plenty of latex gloves very messy job!

oh and if u carnt find the hub splitter .. use a big chizzle

Same thing happened to me. Ali at Unit 18 fixed it.

oh and if u carnt find the hub splitter .. use a big chizzle

Thoght around this problem, will unbolt the topmount from the car and take the whole hub and strut assembly out

Same thing happened to me. Ali at Unit 18 fixed it.

and how much did he charge?

Not sure yet

If its any less than £35 let me know

If its any less than £35 let me know

Ring and ask mate?

oh and if u carnt find the hub splitter .. use a big chizzle

Or just give the steering arm a short sharp tap with a hammer on the end, normally enough to shock the track rod end out!

Jacko, Hub splitter and Balljoint splitter are 2 different tools.

I have a sissor type ball joint splitter so no problem there,

I remember the old Mini days it was 2 hammers ither side of the arm, almost try to squash the steering arm with them, knocks the arm out!

Well boys and girls.

If you are going to DIY a CV joint then remove the driveshaft and do it on a workbench.

i messed up the job first attempt round, left the shaft fitted to car and couldent get the splines to line up propperly which resorted to my anger taking over and totally destroying the thread on the end of the NEW CV, and completely flatterning the splines on the driveshaft

Live and lern, the jetta got a good bashing got to know it a bit better. that Gearbox does not feel right.... anywho thats another thing....

So ended up Ebaying a complete driveshaft of a car that had done 20k.

got home from work today jacked the car up , whipped the old one off and the new one is on and all better.

Skoda/VAG did well with that inner CV joint it has this wicked little cap so the grease is contained in the joint itself.... stoopid jetta has the open style ones

Jacko, Hub splitter and Balljoint splitter are 2 different tools.

I have a sissor type ball joint splitter so no problem there,

I remember the old Mini days it was 2 hammers ither side of the arm, almost try to squash the steering arm with them, knocks the arm out!

Yeah, sorry realise that now, I just saw chisel and imagined the forked chisel type of ball joint splitter(wrecker :-)). Should read the post better! Sorry! :-)

Yeah, sorry realise that now, I just saw chisel and imagined the forked chisel type of ball joint splitter(wrecker :-)). Should read the post better! Sorry! :-)

No Worrys fella I hate those chisle ones!

Oh for info, the chisel ball joint splittlers dont fit in the hub for getting the shock out i tried before

this car is starting to get on my jublies now!

Done:

Drive shaft

Drop link

Ball joint

this list has solved the grinding noise at low speeds, Now i have this stoopid Click noise coming from that site

I get it when i pull away, lifting the clutch into second and 3rd.... Everything is tight though?! i have noticed there is a little rotational play when i try to rotate the disc by hand, it turns about 1-2mm before i get any resistance, The whole lot is turning (disc, hub, driveshaft including both CV's) the whole inner CV (joint and cup) into the gearbox turns with it too..... But this Clicking is coming from the hub end?!?! :(

HELP!?

Am i going to have to do the Wheel Bearing? :wonder:

Edited 28 July, 201114 yr by vRSsunroof

The engine gets a proper wobble on when you start it up, another thing I can think is dogbone mount? Would this cause a click of something knocking together when load is put on the engine? 108000 miles and no record of it changed???

I don't want to go changing things if it's not the problem :( I'm at wits end with this. Anyone?

Well it was the dogbone mount, all sorted