Hi all

There's probably a very simple explanation for this which I've overlooked. I've got manual windows. When I put the key in to unlock the driver's door, just that door unlocks i.e. the little spigot pops up and I can open it. If I unlock the passenger door, they all unlock i.e. all the little spigots pop up and I can open all of them. If I lock either the driver's or the passenger's door, they all lock i.e. all the little spigots go down.

How do I get all the doors to unlock when I unlock the driver's door? Either this is a simple adjustment or it's some mind-blowingly complicated thing to do with dealer set-ups.

Thanks.

The most likely cause is a faulty microswitch in the driver's door lock.

Hmmmm

Thanks for that. I dunno though - I can hear the other locks attempting to unlock, so the signal from the driver's door lock must be getting to them or to whatever controls them. That thing must be in turn instructing the other doors to stay shut, or to ignore the opening signal. Or at least, that's how I see it.

Edited 3 July, 201115 yr by mickpatry

Do they are lock/unlock using the switch on the driver's armrest?

Armrest? This is a Classic sir! No frills :-)

Actually, it's beginning to look like it depends which way round I put the key in. Put it in one way, driver's door opens. Put it in the other way, they all open. I discovered this after a half-dozen locking/unlocking sessions. I haven't the faintest clue why this should be.

I think I'll just leave it.

Thank you anyway RW Baldwin, kind of you to consider it.

Armrest? This is a Classic sir! No frills :-)

Actually, it's beginning to look like it depends which way round I put the key in. Put it in one way, driver's door opens. Put it in the other way, they all open. I discovered this after a half-dozen locking/unlocking sessions. I haven't the faintest clue why this should be.

I think I'll just leave it.

Thank you anyway RW Baldwin, kind of you to consider it.

The lock mechanism uses switches to sense what the key is doing, the limit the travel of the lock shuttle and whether the door is open.

There are two contacts in the part of the lock that the key goes into. One of these is failing. These locks often fail because the soldering of the switches is poor. Resoldering often fixes the problem.

It is worth checking for a broken wire (black/yellow or white/yellow) between the lock and the controller (attached to the window motor) and the contacts in the controller connector (certainly worth a spray of contact cleaner).

The CCU (central convenience controller) and the door controller are working OK.

One option you may want to consider is to fit remote central locking. Kits are available for less than £50.