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Felicia 1.8T transplant thread


TeflonTom

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i've been planning this out and researching the subject in great detail for a fair old time now. there are a few options with regards to the clutch, first option is to use the 02a cable operated clutch mechanism from a seat ibiza 2.0 16v (ABF), this device basically bolts in when the clutch slave normally goes on the golf version and has a kind of pivot lever thing so you can use a clutch cable... next option is to find a suitable clutch master cylinder from a donor vehicle.. i'm not 100% sure what i'll do yet but i've got my beady eyes on the hydraulic system from am early hyaundai coupe, these use a clutch master and fluid resovoir which is totally independent of the braking system which is ideal... i would just weld a clevis fitting to the oe clutch pedal and poke the pushrod through the bulkhead...

going to be using a cable operated throttle body.. the donor engine i have has an AGU engine code by the way, which uses a cable operated throttle as standard

i'm going to be using oe ecu and wiring loom from a golf with agu engine code with a few minor alterations to graft it into the felicia central electrics loom.... the ecu I have has had a peformance map installed and the immobilizer coding has been defeated so theres no fannying around with transponders or instrument clusters.....

the only thing i've not figured out a solid solution to is how to make the speedo work, but i do have a few idea up my sleeve.. i'll cross that bridge when i come to it as somebody wise once said..

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progress has been painfully slow today.. spend most of the day making up some good decent plates to go under the engine mountings, then spent a few hours with the grinder cleaning it all up and flushing the top of the chassis rails to make a nice flat surface for the mounts to sit on... made a start and this is as far as i got

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  • 2 weeks later...

not very interesting folks but i've done a little bit more..

cut a small notch out of the bottom of the chassis rail so the gearbox can sit slightly higher.. decided to make a 65mm spacer to go between the engine mount and gearbox bracket rather than chopping the chassis rail down by that much, that way the mounting sits onto of the chassis rail and retains as much strength as possible.. spacer should be ready tomorrow then i can bolt in the engine/gearbox

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major milestone reached this evening folks, had the engine bolted in for the first time without the crane supporting it.. managed to source a second hand radiator from a diesel felicia which is virtually brand new from a scrapper.......

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  • 3 weeks later...

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it was my intention to use the mk4 golf airbox, firstly because its a neat solution and i could hide all the wiring under it and secondly the ignition output stage module is bolted to it so the heatsink is always in the airflow, sadly the golf airbox is far to bulky... ive used the oem ecu mounting bracket from the 1300 mpi, the 1.8t agu ecu (bosch motronic M3.8) has exactly the same size case as the 1300 ecu (siemens simos 2p) so it fits perfectly like its made for it, this bracket also allows me to fit the oem charcoal canister and purge valve in the original place it is on the felicia. i've fitted the barometic pressure sensor and ignition module in the place where the coolant expansion tank normally fits on the felicia and opted to use an expansion tank from a 6n polo on the other side of the engine bay in a similar relative position to where it is on the mk4 golf to simplify the coolant hose layout..

the ignition module is just plonked in there for now but it will be mounted on a giant heatsink, ive got a big stack of broken stereo amplifiers at work to rob one from.. these modules overheat and go wrong if you leave them flapping around in the engine bay

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2nd major milestone reached today, the engine is now running!! minus the intercooler and exhaust system.. using the oem 1.8t agu ecu from an early a3 with an immobilizer deafeat program on it, joined up to a 1999 golf loom which i've modified to connect to the felicia central electrics loom.. i've even wired up the original felicia diagnostics connector too and it works!!

you may notice in the above pic that there is a few errant wires knocking about... top right dangling over the inner wing goes to the charcoal canister purge valve but the golf loom has a different plug to the felicia purge valve, second one is four wires go to the coolant sensor, oddly the coolant sensor in the audi engine has a different plug to the golf one, i'm using a golf loom, so i've just got to connect that up... thirdly the 2x knock sensors on the bracket under the intake manifold have different plugs too but i've already changed those over. my advice to anybody would be get the loom and engine from the same vehicle!

that's all for now, more on this thread later... p.s can everybody not post irrelevent rubbish regarding the mpg of a 3 legged rocking horse in this thread, you can use the fabia section for that! constructive comments/criticism relating to this subject are welcome though :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

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made good progress today :thumbup: obtained a cheap universal intercooler from ebay, made up a mounting bracket from some old scrap 1.5mm steel plate.. the ends still need to be trimmed off at an angle rather than leaving them pointy

the basic plan is to run the pipe from the turbo along the bottom of the chassis rail on the drivers side, going to put a hole through the chassis crossmember, 90 degree bend then run the pipe along the bottom of the intercooler into that 180 degree U bend.... then come out the other side and go through the hole that normally feeds the airbox with fresh air, from there a 45 degree bend upwards and into the throttle body.. sounds complicated but its by far the best routing for the pipes without putting having loads of bends... rough rule of thumb is that you loose 5% of the pressure for every 90 degree bend :wonder:

more on this thread later...

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i thought this was quite an elegant solution to getting the intercooler pipe through without having undue amounts of bends/elbows in the pipework... basically i whacked a hole through the front chassis crossmember with a hole saw, and welded a piece of exhaust tubing into the hole... this should keep the mot man happy too... the pipe from the turbo will run along the bottom of the chassis rail on the other side of this tube, need to make doubly sure the ally tube is secured nice and firm because its quite close the crankshaft pulley. might weld an exhaust saddle clamp to the body and have a u bolt holding the pipe firmly

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silicon elbow goes on here, then i'm going to have a straight length of aluminium tubing running along the bottom of the intercooler into the 180 degree elbow on the opposite end... just out of shot on the left hand side near the top is the hole which normally feeds the standard felicia airbox with cold air, i'm going to run the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body through there..

that's all for now, progress has been slow folks, more on this thread later :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

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top picture, polyurethane seam sealer.. i know its not very tidy :wonder: i literally just slapped it on there as none of this will be seen its behind the wings, this stuff is notoriously difficult to work with and sticks like **** to a barn door

bottom picture, first coat of stone guard

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  • 4 weeks later...

apologies for the lack of updates, i've been busy working and dealing with other stuff, todays the first chance for like 3 weeks ive had to get into the workshop (or even be at home) :wonder:

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plated up and reinforced the front crossmember and dealt with the rusty patches. in my opinion the crossmember is one of the weakest parts of the whole car...

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i've had to modify the crash bar so that it doesnt foul on the intercooler put i appear to have not taken a picture of this, basically ground off the welds holding the front towing eye screw socket and taken a few nips here and there... i then decided to completely remove the side filler plates that go behind the headlights, this plate also has a retaining bolt captive nut for the wings and the whole panel was completely rotten so i drilled the spot welds off and removed the panels on both sides, the panels are still available from the skoda dealer but they are on back order at present, due on 22nd novemeber

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had to chop down the front bumper a little to allow clearance for the intercooler pipes around the front of the front panel, i;ve done it in such a way that the mounting studs are still in place, sadly it means i need to bin the foglights but thats no big deal anyway, i was careful to only cut in places which still allows the foglight 'blank' panel to fit still.. this is quite handy because it is a useful access hatch for inspecting the boost pipework etc

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did a quick mock up of the front end to check all the panels fit ok, this is all you will see from the front, the intercooler fits in bewteen the slats in the lower bumper really nicely... the foglight 'blanks' trims just pop into the holes but i dont have any to hand at the moment... the whole front end of the car and the engine bay is going to be painted black including the intercooler, so it will be really stealthy.. i'm trying to make it look as oem as possible

a seperate note regarding bodywork, the fella in the unit opposite me makes fibreglass clock faces, he says he can knock me up a fibreglass bonnet and doors etc... could make an interesting weight reduction :thumbup: (because the power to weight ratio is not enough you see :giggle: )

edit: i've also made a plastic cowelling for the lower bumper which forces the air to pass through the intercooler rather than going round the edges :|

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