Can this be caused by old hydraulic fluid (For some reason dealers do not bleed the clutch during a brake fluid change) or is it likely to be something more expensive, such as the clutch or DMF?

It's not on a skoda by the way, so it's a general question.

Ta

Is it fluid clutch, cable or a mix?

It's a hydraulic fluid system, with a shared reservoir.

Usally a high bitting point is a sign that the clutch is getting worn,some cars have a high bitting point anyway,does the clutch slip at all? With it been hydraulic there is no adjustment as there would be with a cable clutch. What car is it?

It could be the clutch plate getting worn, but if the clutch plate has been replaced it could be down to the flywheel surface being worn. Normally it's just a case of getting used to it.

Rob.

Can this be caused by old hydraulic fluid (For some reason dealers do not bleed the clutch during a brake fluid change) or is it likely to be something more expensive, such as the clutch or DMF?

It's not on a skoda by the way, so it's a general question.

Ta

Huh what? We've established that there's a shared reservoir, so they need to change the clutch fluid in order to do a complete brake fluid change. This means that they need to bleed the clutch unless the routing is such as to make it self-bleeding.

Huh what? We've established that there's a shared reservoir, so they need to change the clutch fluid in order to do a complete brake fluid change. This means that they need to bleed the clutch unless the routing is such as to make it self-bleeding.

You see that was roughly the conversation I had with the garage, who stated that the clutch bleed was not part of the brake fluid change.

Could be a slight clutch wear or if the car has a DMF, then it could be that. What was wrong with a simple large lump of metal to pass the drive, other than that it could only be sold to most people once?

You see that was roughly the conversation I had with the garage, who stated that the clutch bleed was not part of the brake fluid change.

Well, you can tell what I think of that argument! That said, I'd think that an airlock would tend to give you a low and spongy pedal. A leak back past the slave seals can give you a high (and rising, particularly if yu hold the clutch down at lights) pedal though.

Could be a slight clutch wear or if the car has a DMF, then it could be that. What was wrong with a simple large lump of metal to pass the drive, other than that it could only be sold to most people once?

I've been told that the Guild of Muttering Rotters prefer the feel of a DMF.

I've had and continue to have this phenomenon on My Fab saloon from early on. Its done 50,000 from new and the original clutch is still going strong. I thought it was water collecting in the Clutch side, as i understand that flushing the brakes doesn't always take all the fluid and muck out of the clutch side because there's no drain on that side. Further, I don't think they like doing drains outside the normal brake fluid flushing interval as the drain plug is plastic and easily broken. Asked the stealer to look into the problem, and there was a slight improvement initially, but then it reverted. I suspect a poor seal on the clutch master cylinder - wouldn't surprise me given the other "Poor tolerance" design features across the range e.g. the poor quality/poorly designed conrod journals on the crank.

One other possibility of course is a manufacturing fault or wrong fitting (Back-to-front) in the actuating arm in the bell housing such that, at rest, the cantilever on the stamping acts to understate any input at the cluch pedal -stranger things have happened at sea. As long as it works, sort of, is the average dealer who should find this going to report or do anything about it. Of course, its sails through % x MOTs.

Upside of having a defecetive clutch is that it makes normal changes near impossible - so you get plenty of opportunity to practice your short shift technique.

At least its one step up from my previous car, a Mk1 VW Golf (Base N model) where a under specification of the engine water ways lead to engine overheating in traffic with only the slightest provocation. This lead to the whole engine assembly getting overheated with the consequence that, even with a moderate anuula mileage of 6 K per annum, a clutch would last 2 years max, after which the steel springs would "Blue" due to heat and stiffening meaning that you would need to be an olympic weight lifter in order to move it with your foot. If you persisted with it in this state, eventually the mechanism would fail and on a couple of occasions, due to the value-engineered clutch cable, which relied on the taugtening of the cable outer in order to move the actuating arm, the whole cable mechanism broke through the engine compartment bulkhead whilst I was driving.

Only 50 years attempting to make monocoque chassis, front wheel drive cars and still no getting it right.

My theory is that, as a matter of policy, whenever Wolfsburg are faced with a new engineering challenge that is critical to the vehicle design and the success of the marque, they deliberately give the task to the most inept YTS trainee ijn the office they can find. A sort of stand back and light the blue touch paper approach - a bit like HMG over here.

Nick