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In my opinion, it will be better if you get in a store that has Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Sony, etc. cameras. The way you feel the camera in your hands is very important, the control buttons and switches. When I set my mind to buy my first Dslr, after talking with a lot of friends, reading on forums... got decided for a Nikon D5100 ( entry level, looking ok in reviews for what I need it at the time). Got in to a shop, looked at a few other cameras and I ended up buying a Canon 650D :))

So, try to play with a few cameras a little bit before you decide... even though it makes sense to go for a Nikon, since you can share some lenses with your dad.

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  • @ OP I had a Nikon D60 for several years and absolutely loved it. It is simple to use and gives good resulting pictures. Around this time last year I sold it and bought a Nikon D300 which I stru

  • matt_theforce
    matt_theforce

    I bought myself a 2nd hand Nikon D60 just before Christmas, it came with the standard 18-55mm lens, Rucksack/several memory cards/charger/manual/battery, enough to get me snapping away. The 1st thing

  • I went away over the weekend and spent a night away in Buxton with SWMBO (without the boys ), it was nice to be able to amble around the town and park, had another tinker with the camera while there

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The thing to think about with DSLR's is that camera bodies change fairly regularly with new features but lenses tend to be long term.

 

Looking at Canons range, the bodies in each sector ie entry(xxxD), mid(xxD) and professional (xD) are all on a fairly regular upgrade cycle with entry being almost every year. Most of the lenses on the other hand have been out for 5-10 years (both Canon and after market lenses like Sigma and Tamron) before they are being looked at for redesign. This means that bodies can be bought fairly cheaply but lenses do retain more value as even a 5 year old lens can still be current and perform as well as a brand new one unlike the body which will possibly have been superseded twice.

 

I started with a 400d (after using a mates 350d for a while) with the kit lens (18-55). Did a lot of shooting with it and bought quite a few lenses which helped with motorsport etc. Ended up with it with 10-20mm, 18-50mm, 50-500mm and then thought about a body upgrade to a 50d (for better ergonomics, ease of use in full manual mode, better focussing, better high ISO performance etc). The 400d (and for that matter the 350d) still take great photos (now in the hands of my sister in law) but I was ready for something new.

  • Author

Last questions,

 

* Should I be worried about shutter counts when looking at a used camera?

* Is there any servicing etc I should factor in when buying a used camera?

Last questions,

 

* Should I be worried about shutter counts when looking at a used camera?

* Is there any servicing etc I should factor in when buying a used camera?

1) If its a DSLR, then possibly ask the question however shutters can fail any time from 20K up to 100+K. If you get one of the low count shutters fail , you have been very, very unlucky as most will go on to do more actuations than you will likely ever need (a very early malfunctioning shutter will often be covered by warranty). For a P&S, don't worry at all as there are virtually no mechanical items to fail.

2) The only servicing a camera will need is a sensor clean (how often will depend on how you use it). I have had 2 cameras with probably well over 10K actuations on each and neither have needed cleaning. Just be reasonable careful with changing lenses (don't change them in the middle of a dust storm or rain) and you should be fine.

Last questions,

 

* Should I be worried about shutter counts when looking at a used camera?

* Is there any servicing etc I should factor in when buying a used camera?

It's very difficult for the hobby snapper to find out the shutter count and even some of the Secondhand resellers don't have the software to find out (it doesn't show on the camera of a regular DSLR-well certainly not Canons). I suspect most cameras wont exceed the rated shutter counts unless the owner had used the high speed burst modes a lot

One good tip I was given by a Canon Service engineer was to put a piece of double sided sticky on the inside of the cameras plastic body cap. then when you move the camera about from A to B, the dust and stuff might be caught on the sticky a bit like camera fly paper. Just make sure that you attach the sticky firmly to the cap as if it came loose it wouldn't be pretty :D

It's very difficult for the hobby snapper to find out the shutter count and even some of the Secondhand resellers don't have the software to find out (it doesn't show on the camera of a regular DSLR-well certainly not Canons). I suspect most cameras wont exceed the rated shutter counts unless the owner had used the high speed burst modes a lot

One good tip I was given by a Canon Service engineer was to put a piece of double sided sticky on the inside of the cameras plastic body cap. then when you move the camera about from A to B, the dust and stuff might be caught on the sticky a bit like camera fly paper. Just make sure that you attach the sticky firmly to the cap as if it came loose it wouldn't be pretty :D

 

Apple OSx can tell you how many shutter actuations the camera has done from a jpeg file - all of that info should be recorded by the camera. 

 

post-54202-0-30814700-1385546888_thumb.jpg

 

post-54202-0-33284400-1385547694_thumb.jpg

 

post-54202-0-12950800-1385547715_thumb.jpg

 

in this case, see "Image Number" near the bottom, it's my D3s and has covered 189,406 shutter actuations... my D3 a mere 137,000 and my D3x (studio camera) 87,000... 

 

Good job they are good for 300,000! 

 

If you are buying a 2nd hand camera, ask them to send you a file, to check it like this. - There's also websites, you can upload an image too, and will tell you the shutter count. 

Al. 

 

ps. Consider a Nikon 1 J2, £199 with lens at the moment; it's not an SLR but does give great results! - If budget will allow, go for the J3, which has CashBack from Nikon. 

Edited by ukcruiser

If the shutter count is the one in the metadata (image number), once you format your card the number is reset

Edited by Lady Elanore

But the number is still in the image file. So I've just looked at a file in a free file viewer (Irfanview) and looking at the EXIF information, I can see the the image number - "Total Pictures 9485" from a D70s, both JPG and NEF files.

If the shutter count is the one in the metadata (image number), once you format your card the number is reset

 

Image name will change (or can change upon format, depending on settings, eg, DSC_0000) but not the image number; believe me, I've formatted my cards at least once in the past 189,000 frames! :) 

Al. 

Edited by ukcruiser

You can check the shutter count easily online. There are several websites like this one, that will read the relevant bit from the EXIF data. The D700 I retired earlier this year had done over 450,000 actuations.

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned (or at least I didn't notice anyone mentioning in my quick skim of this thread!) a digital mirrorless camera?

 

If the OP is nervous of buying a used DSLR, there are a few compact system cameras available new for the budget mentioned.

 

If speed's your main concern, then I can recommend the Nikon 1 J1 for that budget. It can shoot at up to 60fps, so it great for caching action. The smart photo selector feature is good for increasing your chances of getting a good shot. It starts taking pictures before the shutter is presed, as well as shortly after, presenting the five sharpest images from the burst to choose from. Video and low light quality are also good.

 

Alternatively, for something that produces depth of filed closer to that of a DSLR, there's the Panasonic GF-5. The Panasonics are great if you like to tinker with lots of interchangeable lenses, as anything suitable for Micro Four thirds (Lenses from Olympus, Sigma and lots of special effect lenses) will fit and work.

 

The same can be said of the Olympus EPM-1. the advantage of the Olympus over the Panasonic is that it has image stabilisation built into the camera body, so any lens can benefit from this feature so long as the appropriate settings are applied.

 

All these cameras are more compact and lightweight than pretty much any DSLR. The best camera is the one you have with you, as they say  :rofl:

 

I just thought these types of camera may have been overlooked. No worries if you've discounted them already.

Oh yes, and as mentioned above, there's the Nikon 1 J2, which has a better screen than the J1 for the same price too. I should learn to read things properly before posting!  :wall:

As far as I know, you need a bit of special software to read shutter counts on a Canon :(

As far as I know, you need a bit of special software to read shutter counts on a Canon :(

 

send me a file and we'll find out...! 

[email protected]

 

Al. 

send me a file and we'll find out...! 

[email protected]

 

Al. 

file sent :)

Btw,not all Canon cameras are like this. The mighty 1Dx or what ever it's called can read you it's shutter release. But I refuse to download 3rd part software to read what manufacturers like Nikon install on most of their cameras. Come on Canon. Fess up

 

I think Magic Lantern do a good solution

@ OP

I had a Nikon D60 for several years and absolutely loved it.

It is simple to use and gives good resulting pictures.

Around this time last year I sold it and bought a Nikon D300 which I struggled with for a while trying to get get to grips with all the buttons and switches, to the point I still miss my D60 and have considered buying one S/H from Ebay or the likes just to have as a pick up and go camera.

You could do far worse than buying a D60 off of Ebay or the likes with a small shutter count and with your budget get a decent lens out of your remaining cash.

Just my 2c worth :)

send me a file and we'll find out...! 

[email protected]

 

Al. 

Any luck with the shutter count?

:(

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

I bought myself a 2nd hand Nikon D60 just before Christmas, it came with the standard 18-55mm lens, Rucksack/several memory cards/charger/manual/battery, enough to get me snapping away.

The 1st thing that strikes me is the speed at which it will take the picture when pressing the button, I'm rarely getting blurred/fuzzy photos (when using the Auto mode).

Here's looking forward to some time that I can start learning the basic's about photography.

Just a few snap's from Boxing Day when our 4month old Cocker Spaniel 'Guinness' met 'Vinnie' my brothers dog

 

11671356166_fda5240e63.jpg
DSC_0289 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

 

11671118946_c28c20afb5.jpg
DSC_0311 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670602084_0d34c3b599.jpg
DSC_0322 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670447783_d038688e5b.jpg
DSC_0330 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670164195_6de1e1cdf9.jpg
DSC_0335 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670122515_7db8a7bf89.jpg
DSC_0343 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670447794_a9199c1d64.jpg
DSC_0346 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

11670018665_e77febfff2.jpg
DSC_0352 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

Matthew

^^ The D60 is a great camera to start with.

I still miss my one at times

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Quick Update,

 

I've been on a 1day introduction to photography course to start getting an understanding of terminology/functionality & basics.

 

All are taken with a Nikon D60 with 18-55mm lens.  Some are in Bakewell (during the course) and there are a few taken whilst walking the dog the day after.

 

1st, moving objects. Exposure was set way to high but not a bad start

12611262755_af69ab434f.jpg
1966881_10203204198764014_596809416_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

2nd, changing the focal point

12611263075_4e3750eed0.jpg
1926763_10203204197243976_1944920140_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

12611262915_cf8e6910b5.jpg
1964822_10203204209164274_459600177_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

3rd, Slow/Fast shutter speeds

12611353453_c7369944c1.jpg
1962589_10203204216404455_1394819289_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

12611669774_84e6243caa.jpg
1907563_10203204207524233_1271502190_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

12611256525_49efb7c0b9.jpg
1620652_10203204209804290_637626277_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

Opinions & advise welcome :)

 

Matthew

Apologies for being late to this but it appears you are on your way to getting deeper into the hobby. Congratulations on your purchase (hey I'm a Canon man but congratz nontheless).

 

Once you take the camera out of "green box mode" ie Auto, you open up a whole world of opportunities and creative choices. You know what you want from a photo, the camera doesn't (although they seem smart, they are easily fooled by certain things).

 

Have a look at DigitalPphotographySchool if you want to push yourself a bit. Lots of experience there and some very helpful people. Don't be afraid to ask questions or search.

 

Also don't get caught up in buying gear that you don't need (it can get very, very expensive). I started about 10 years ago and I reckon I have spent about £4000 or thereabouts in those 10 years (£400 for a 400D, £250 for a flash, £400 for an 18-50 f2.8 lens, £400 for a 10-20mm lens, £1000 for a 50-500mm, £800 for an upgrade of the camera to a 50D, £250 for a carbon fibre tripod and ball head and various bags to keep the camera and lenses in). I could have spent way more if I wanted but I only buy infrequently and I tend to not buy Canon equipment (Sigma/ Tamron are pretty good and a lot cheaper)

Quick Update,

 

I've been on a 1day introduction to photography course to start getting an understanding of terminology/functionality & basics.

 

All are taken with a Nikon D60 with 18-55mm lens.  Some are in Bakewell (during the course) and there are a few taken whilst walking the dog the day after.

 

1st, moving objects. Exposure was set way to high but not a bad start

12611262755_af69ab434f.jpg

1966881_10203204198764014_596809416_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

2nd, changing the focal point

12611263075_4e3750eed0.jpg

1926763_10203204197243976_1944920140_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

12611262915_cf8e6910b5.jpg

1964822_10203204209164274_459600177_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

3rd, Slow/Fast shutter speeds

12611353453_c7369944c1.jpg

1962589_10203204216404455_1394819289_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

12611669774_84e6243caa.jpg

1907563_10203204207524233_1271502190_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

12611256525_49efb7c0b9.jpg

1620652_10203204209804290_637626277_n by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

Opinions & advise welcome :)

 

Matthew

Are you shooting in RAW? If not, it's worth buying a biggish CF/SD card and trying it. You can recover Blown-out highlights to a certain degree, perhaps not entirely recovering the Green Focus's over exposure, but certainly improving it. The only trouble might be if you are using Windows as only certain programs let you view RAW files direct (Office Viewer does). I would recommend getting Adobe Lightroom.  A fantastic product, used by 'Pros' and quite easy for the novice to use too. You can import your files in RAW format straight into Lightroom and using a selection of little sliders, tweak all the parameters of your picture. When your done you simply export them into your desired format (jpg probably). The originals are still left untouched and the Lightroom cleverly records all the alterations you made to those originals in a separate fie. Completely none destructive editing. Best bit is it's under £100 . Have a look on YouTube for tutalrials

 

Keep up the good work (I love ducks :) )

  • Author

I went away over the weekend and spent a night away in Buxton with SWMBO (without the boys :) ), it was nice to be able to amble around the town and park, had another tinker with the camera while there

 

A little wonky (I blame the alcohol from the night before)

12719517614_f39cf4e708.jpg
DSC_1097 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

12719267233_f103a43127.jpg
DSC_1070 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

Another long shutter speed experiment

12719611884_f1c7a9543e.jpg
DSC_1047 by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

One of SWMBO, she is always very hard to take a photo of, her complextion is quite olivy but always turns out pale so this was touched up a little by adding some red but has made it look a little over exposed

12719134885_42b00eef55.jpg
DSC_1061_edited by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

Lastly, Freshly made Rum & Raisin Fudge with Hazlenuts @ the Fudge Kitchen in York

12777722833_e2e9149468.jpg
Rum & Raisin with Hazlenuts by Matthew Chilton, on Flickr

 

I'm not shooting in RAW but have an 8G SD Card, I might try that at some point,currently I have an old version of Corel Paint Shop (I think) which I've been starting to look around & I've installed Faststone image viewer to help with seeing the differences in settings between my pictures (usually take 2 of the same thing with different settings)

 

I think my next purchase will be a tripod & some filters like the ones I borrowed from my dad this weekend

 

Matthew

Edited by matt@theforce

Shooting in RAW will give you a stop either side when you do post production. ie if you under or over expose, you can recover the image to a surprising degree when you edit the image. it also has other benefits to image quality (you can even do a sort of pseudo HDR with some editing programmes) . definitely try it if you aren't shooting sports. In fact as I spend so much time shooting Kitesurfers and Jetskis, I have started to shoot even that in RAW as the changeable lighting conditions (from murky, or reflective water, to Dull or Bright ski all in one sequence) I find RAW probably double the amount of 'keepers' :)

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