Both my mirrors are motionless when I use the button, but work when I connect power directly to the plug to the mirror. Which tells me that they have probably lost power in the door somewhere. That had happened to the window regulator on the driver's side as well. But there are a few hundred (well, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit) cables in that plug, and I have no idea which one should have power and not. So does anybody have a wiring diagram for that? Maybe it needs power going back and forth to the passenger side mirror as well, like my Chevy Suburban does?

It's a 1999 Estate with the type of controller switch that's next to the driver's side door handle and has a 0 in the middle, not the symbol for heat to the mirrors (even though I expect that 0 is the position where the mirrors get heat anyway).

Edited 27 August, 201114 yr by Mastiff

Both my mirrors are motionless when I use the button, but work when I connect power directly to the plug to the mirror. Which tells me that they have probably lost power in the door somewhere. That had happened to the window regulator on the driver's side as well. But there are a few hundred (well, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit) cables in that plug, and I have no idea which one should have power and not. So does anybody have a wiring diagram for that? Maybe it needs power going back and forth to the passenger side mirror as well, like my Chevy Suburban does?

It's a 1999 Estate with the type of controller switch that's next to the driver's side door handle and has a 0 in the middle, not the symbol for heat to the mirrors (even though I expect that 0 is the position where the mirrors get heat anyway).

The most likely cause is a bad switch/switch wiring as both are not moving.

Each mirror is controlled by the module on the door it is attached to. There are no individual signals/wires between the two doors. The passenger side module gets its instructions via CAN-Bus.

The door module is an integral part of the window motor and is not available separately.

First check that the switch lights up when you put on the lights. If not, then the brown wire from the driver side module is broken.

The other two wires to check are the yellow and brown/white which also come from the driver side module.

If it's not the wiring then it could be the switch itself or a faulty driver side module.

Both my mirrors are motionless when I use the button, but work when I connect power directly to the plug to the mirror. Which tells me that they have probably lost power in the door somewhere. That had happened to the window regulator on the driver's side as well. But there are a few hundred (well, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit) cables in that plug, and I have no idea which one should have power and not. So does anybody have a wiring diagram for that? Maybe it needs power going back and forth to the passenger side mirror as well, like my Chevy Suburban does?

It's a 1999 Estate with the type of controller switch that's next to the driver's side door handle and has a 0 in the middle, not the symbol for heat to the mirrors (even though I expect that 0 is the position where the mirrors get heat anyway).

Take a look at the wiring as it goes through the two holes - one on the door and one on the car- where the rubber door snake protects the wires.

It is not unknown for the wires to be chafed or broken on older cars. Can affect door all door related function including winders and locking as well as your problem.

Edit: Simultaneous posting...

RWBaldwin, thanks for answering, but...CAN-bus on a 1999? I don't think so... If I'm not mistaken that appeared on the Octavia Diesel around 2004-2005, probably a bit earlier on the petrol version. And you're wrong about the door module, it's easily available for this car, for instance from here or eBay. I do of course have the model that's most difficult to find because it was only used from July 1999 and up to July 2000 on the Octavia, no other models.

But will it still be the brown wire? And if it is, can I simply connect 12V+ to that cable into the mirror switch, or is it (as it seems to be most of the time with newer cars) more complicated?

pikpilot, I have looked at those cables, but I couldn't see anything wrong. Which doesn't have to mean anything since the window regulator on the driver's side had 12V, but not enough ampere, it didn't move. Hooking up an extra cable to the 12V+ fixed that.

Edited 27 August, 201114 yr by Mastiff

Edit: Simultaneous posting...

RWBaldwin, thanks for answering, but...CAN-bus on a 1999? I don't think so...

YES - the CCU and the door controllers communicate via CAN-Bus. The diagnostics port is K-Line.

Your link is for the CCU - not the controller that is part of the Window Motor.

The mirror switch is full of resistors to reduce the wire count. It only produces signals for the door module - it doesn't actually connect to the mirror motors.

(Viping egg of face...I think) Which controller are you talking about, then? In my case the Comfort unit is plugged directly into the window regulator motor, so the window regulator motor itself has only two connectors, which are for main power to the window motor. And the cables to the other window regulators are a bunch of small cables, not a single cable. Isn't the CAN-bus a single cable system?

Edit: According to Ross-Tech only 2004+ Skoda Octavia (1Z chassis) has CAN-bus. I thought that was correct. Or does that only mean that they use CAN-bus for diagnostics, while the bus itself came earlier?

Edited 27 August, 201114 yr by Mastiff

If you PM me your VIN, I can see exactly how your car is wired.

The CAN-Bus connection uses two wires - Lilac and Lilac/White

If you know the engine code that will be useful too.

That would be great, thanks a lot! It's an AGR engine. PM in a second.

Info Sent.

Thanks! I'll let you know when I get it. You are sure you used the correct address? I would have expected to see it by now.

Hi mate, pm me and i'll help you out with a service manual which has all this info in it

Thank you very much! PM sent.

RWBaldwin, I have the info now, thanks! The VIN number is taken directly from my Norwegian registration documents, so it should be correct. Between the two of you I think you have given me all I need, so I'll get to this tomorrow, since my wife's got a late shift today.

RWBaldwin, I have the info now, thanks! The VIN number is taken directly from my Norwegian registration documents, so it should be correct. Between the two of you I think you have given me all I need, so I'll get to this tomorrow, since my wife's got a late shift today.

I think the VIN is correct as it matches the other details of your car. The Y in your VIN corresponds to a 2000 Model Year.

Right, thanks. I'm guessing that this is the "car factory year" that starts early in september, right? The car was first registered the 20th of October 1999.

Right, thanks. I'm guessing that this is the "car factory year" that starts early in september, right? The car was first registered the 20th of October 1999.

It just means that you bought a 2000 model in 1999, in the same way you can probably get a 2012 car this year.

The Model Year is important when you are looking for parts, schematics, etc. When the Model Year becomes available changes almost every year. IIRC, 2000 Model Year cars were available as early as June 1999. I have a 1999 Model Year TDI SLX bought in March 1999. If you look at the two schematics, you can see how different they are.

Problem found! I checked a week ago, and I had what I should have on the cables. So I figured it had to be the switch. Today I parked behind an identical car while I was out shopping, by pure accident. The guy looked funnily at me when I aske if I could try his mirror switch... But I explained that it was a simple pop out and plug in thing, and he agreed. And my mirror worked. So now I'm going to get me another switch! Thanks for the help!